Slant Six Forum
https://slantsix.org/forum/

help identitfy my Carter carb
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8374		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  milesius [ Tue Feb 10, 2004 3:18 pm ]
Post subject:  help identitfy my Carter carb
Any help is appreciated!
I pulled a suspicious Carter 1 bbl carb from my 62 Lancer. I call it suspicious because the linkage looked like it had been "modified" to mate up to the thing.
I had purchased a rebuild kit based on the year make and model of the Lancer.
None of the numbers match up to what is in the kit. It says Carter on it, Ball & Ball and many numbers like 6 - 1456, 0- 1330, and 53 A 450 . Anybody know what it is?
Author:  Seis Inclinado [ Tue Feb 10, 2004 4:48 pm ]
Post subject:  Carter Carb
Milesius
Go to http://www.slantsix.org/articles/choke- ... adjust.htm , scroll down to the bottom of the page and click on Carter BBS links, for a good description of different systems

Rafa
Author:  milesius [ Tue Feb 10, 2004 5:21 pm ]
Post subject:  ok, this is weird...
Thanks!
that was helpful. but now I have another question. my 1 bbl carter is missing the whole Choke Vacuum Diaphram assembly!
How is it that it has been working till now? I get great gas mileage...
Author:  mnecaise [ Wed Feb 11, 2004 5:39 am ]
Post subject: 
That diaphram is just a pull-off -- it opens the choke a little bit more as soon as the engine starts to keep it from flooding. Once the engine warms up it does nothing. If your choke is adjusted a little on the loose side missing the diaphram won't hurt.
Author:  milesius [ Thu Feb 12, 2004 10:04 am ]
Post subject:  thanks
Quote:
That diaphram is just a pull-off -- it opens the choke a little bit more as soon as the engine starts to keep it from flooding. Once the engine warms up it does nothing. If your choke is adjusted a little on the loose side missing the diaphram won't hurt.
That was most helpful, thank you! I am not going to worry about it then.
I am going to rebuild this carb and may not use it. I have a holley carb that is newer. I have heard that the Carter is better, anybody have any opinion about it?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Feb 15, 2004 8:18 am ]
Post subject: 
The Carter carb is better, and if your carb was originally a '60-'63 model, it would not have the external vacuum diaphragm for the choke, but would have an internal choke pulldown piston instead.
Author:  Paul G. [ Sun Feb 15, 2004 5:30 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well, SlantSixDan, I would say the Holley 1920 is better :-)

At least to this point, they only seem to need rebuilding (successfully) for 3 reasons. Either the float is not doing its job right, the needle and seat are shot, or the side float bowl leaks. Fix the problem and drive on happy.

Once and a while they fail and no amount of rebuilding will make them work again (get another core). Oh, they take about 1/2 mpg off the car too. But they are very easy to make work right 99% of the time (and less low part-throttle hesitation issues than the 1bb Carter, in my experiance).

My only point is, different people end up with different opinions based on experiance. If the original poster is mostly concerned about stock then that will set the responce. Both carbs work fine; I've used both (stock Carter on the shelf). It sounds like he has something stock enuf to care :-)
Author:  milesius [ Sun Feb 15, 2004 6:34 pm ]
Post subject:  linkage
Well, at this point they both could work. The new problem I find is linkage.
The 225 engine is taller than they 170, so I am not sure how that Carter will fit back on, but if it does, I will use it. The Holley is set up with a wire pull type linkage system, and I cannot see how I can mate things up with my lancer.
Anybody had this problem before? If so...
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Feb 15, 2004 6:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
The rotating-rod type throttle linkage was used on '60-'66 Slant-6 A-bodies from '60 to '66, except for '65-'66 cars with *factory* (not dealer) A/C, which got the cable-type throttle. The rod throttle was also used on larger Slant-6 cars from '60-'61, and cable type from '62 up.

There is no difference between the linkage connections on a carburetor off a rod-throttle 170 and that off a rod-throttle 225. Go inside the car and you'll find that the rod from the accelerator pedal to the inside bell crank has an adjustor at the top. Unsnap the ball joint, unscrew the adjustor until the attach point moves up, and your 1-inch-taller block will be no problem.
Page 1 of 1 All times are UTC-08:00
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited
https://www.phpbb.com/