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Stalls when I turn left
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9081
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Author:  big scalded cat [ Mon Apr 19, 2004 7:49 am ]
Post subject:  Stalls when I turn left

My 72 dart / 6 seemed like it wanted to stall every time I turned left then when I went to start it after that it just turned over wouldn't start any ideas I was thinking the carb floats but also maybe the porcilin white thing on the fire wall what do you guys think?

Author:  RG [ Mon Apr 19, 2004 8:07 am ]
Post subject: 

Sounds like you have a Holley Model 1920 that someone left the baffle out of.

Author:  Guest [ Mon Apr 19, 2004 11:42 am ]
Post subject: 

Worked find just started this out of the blue

Author:  Guest [ Mon Apr 19, 2004 11:42 am ]
Post subject: 

Worked find just started this out of the blue

Author:  SlantSixDan [ Mon Apr 19, 2004 12:06 pm ]
Post subject: 

Typical Holley 1920 operational problem. That's not what the baffle is there to prevent -- the baffle is to prevent fuel splashover from the inlet needle seat from hitting the top of the float and dunking it.

The Holley 1920 uses a Nitrophyll float with a counterbalance spring. The float is side-hinged, which means in a left turn it tends to get thrown into one particular position and flood the engine. If you hold the accelerator to the floor while cranking after a left-turn stall, it should eventually start up for you. The *fix* for the problem is a different (better) carburetor, a Carter BBS. There are several appropriate ones on Ebay right now, see the thread in this forum "South Beach Diet".

If you for some reason want to make this carburetor you have now work less worse than it does right now, you will need a good quality carburetor rebuild kit and a new float. There are TWO DIFFERENT FLOATS for the Holley 1920! They look and fit exactly the same; one weighs 8.5 grams and the other weighs 12.5 grams. You must use the correct float for your specific carburetor or it won't work right. Be sure the float counterbalance spring is properly installed under the float arm (a missing, broken or shifted spring is probably the proximate cause of your current stalling -- together with a fuel-soaked float).

The "white ceramic thing on the firewall" is your ballast resistor and it is not causing your problem.

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