Some will remember the problems I was having with my 1945 (hard cold starting). Turns out, the air horn has a big gouge, inside the throat where it mates with the carburetor body. The gasket is not thick enough to seal it in that area. Since the fuel surrounds the throat of the carb, fuel was leaking into the manifold, flooding the engine. Apparently, this wasn't a problem with the engine hot. So, it looks like its shot. I was thinking of trying some JB Weld on it and filing it down so its flush with the rest of the mating surface, but don't want to risk it not being compatible with fuel and falling off or deteriorating. Oh well. Another one bites the dust!

I think I recall seeing fuel resistant on the jb weld packaging. If not, I know there are 2 part epoxies designed to be used around fuel so check out your local stores and see whats availible.

Thanks Pierre, I'll take a look tomorrow after work. I got this carb from a friend, so I have no idea how it got that low spot in it. The whole carb is kinda hammered, though nothing a little sand paper will not take care of. I'll clean it up and blow it out with the air compresser at work and slap it back on this weekend (Tuesday-Wednesday for me).

Last time I swapped out carbs, the JB weld in my Hyperpak intake sealing the 'divider' was starting to 'peel' under a gasoline rich environment...the JB had about 72 hours to cure when I painted and installed the new heatbox on the manifold last year. It'll work, but it may not stay that way under prolonged exposure to gasoline.

FYI,

-D.Idiot

I used JB weld on my gas tank to fix a small hole caused by damage. it's still holding strong.

_________________
Mike C
http://cuda.iclownz.com
67 - Barracuda Coupe - 225 - Automatic

I have had success with regular JB weld in contact with fuel. Used on the super six manifold, under the carb mounting, to cover the threaded flush plug I installed to block the EGR port. Been there 7 years, and 95,000 miles with no problems. I check it often.
I have a antique rototiller which had a hole corroded in the bottom of the carb, used JB weld, and a bit of aluminium to patch. No leaks after 5 years, this thing is a vibrating monster too.

_________________
Ross Rither
1964 Dart, 170
225, super six.

Eric- How about grabbing just the air horn off of a boneyard carb? Or, could you use some gasket maker stuff (like a tube of Permatex gasket maker) in addition to the cork gasket to fill the void? When I installed the intake manifold on my van I used Permatex instead of some of the cork gaskets and it has held up great for 3000 miles.

What about two gaskets on the carb instead of one?

Reed

My brother told me about a gas tank repair kit he got once to fix a hole in his van. Sounded like some kind of epoxy that he mixed together, stuffed it in the hole and it seemed to work, although he got another gas tank a few weeks later. Might check into something like that.

dave

I'll try the JB Weld and see how that works out. If I use 2 gaskets, that will throw off the power valve plunger, possibly causing it not to open all the way. I have some JB at work, so I'll try that and see what happens. Thanks for the replys.