I've got the super six set-up on my 71 D100, rebuilt engine with less than 2000 miles on it, rebuilt Carter BBD with no choke or anything.

Even without the choke, I'm thinking my engine should warm up fairly quickly in this TX summer weather. But when it hasn't run for a couple of hours and I go out to start it, it's very sluggish and will stall out unless I am very careful.

I've checked my plugs and they show that I'm running rich. I've got the carb screws adjusted to where it just starts to stumble and then I've screwed them back out one turn.

A friend has suggested possible metering rod problems or jet problems. Does anyone have suggestions?

Thanks,

Joe

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Joe Hoppe

71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"

Vacuum leak or metering rods. See the Super Six article for instructions on how to adjust all the settings on the carb.

Reed

Thanks, Reed. I'll re-read that article. It's been a while. Where can I get metering rods?

Joe

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Joe Hoppe

71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"

Read your excellent article again, Reed. Are mis-adjusted metering rods going to cause my engine to run rich?

Also, will brake cleaner sprayed on my intake show a vacuum leak by running better or is there something better to use?

Thanks,

Joe

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Joe Hoppe

71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"

The best tool for dealing with vacuum problems is a vacuum guage. I highly recommend you get one. A stock slant should be pulling between 17 and 20 inches at idle.

If you don't have a vacuum guage, the places to check for vacuum leaks would be cracked hoses, uncapped fittings on the carb, and loose manifold mounting bolts or carb holdsown bolts.

I would rather spray WD-40 than brake cleaner,. but it will do the same thing.

Misadjusted metering rods could very well make your engine run rich. I doubt you will need to switch out either your rods or jets, but if you really want to do it, all post 1974 Carter BBDs interchange jets and metering rods with Carter AFBs and Edelbrock Performer carbs. This opens up huge possibilities for tuning your carb.

I re-read your original post and saw that you disconnected your stock choke. I strongly recommend that you re-install it and run a heated air intake. Don't forget to use the electronic choke pulloff that the Super Six got from the factory too.

The behavior you describe sounds to me like you are running too lean rather than too rich. I always thought curb idle mixture was set by leaning it up until it ran rough then backed the screws out 1/2 a turn, not one full turn.

Anyway, I recommend you double check the settings, re-install the choke hardware, and double check your base timing and vacuum advance.

Reed

I'll work on your suggestions. It's going to be a while before I can go out and get the choke, though.

I'm currently running at 5 degrees BTDC. My manuals say run zero. Your article talked about 10-12 degrees BTDC. Why the big differences?

Thanks,

Joe

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Joe Hoppe

71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"

I honestly can't tell you a definite answer for the differences in the timing setting, other than that was what the manufacturer thought would be the best base timing for your vehicle in relation to the original carb, distributor timing curve, emissions equipment, vehicle weight and gearing, and options ordered with your truck. However, advancing your timing will definitely give you more power and better miles per gallon.

Probably the best way to set your timing is with a vacuum guage. Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance line and then adjust your timing fo rthe best vacuum at the correct idle. You may have to lower your RPMs once you advance the timing a bit.

Reed

Is there a possibility that the engine floods after you turn the engine off? After the engine is fully warmed up, turn it off, then jump out, pull off the air cleaner and look down the venturi(s). If you see raw fuel dripping off the booster or even wisps of white 'smoke' as in fuel vapors, the needle and seat(and/or bad float), and/or the incorrect float level may be allowing raw fuel to flood the engine, possibly even wet foul the spark plugs.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
'66 Dart GT convertible 225/auto
'64 Dart GT 340/4spd

Interesting tip, Bud. I'll give it a look.

Reed, I'll look into a vacuum gauge. Do I hook it up at the outlet for the distributor advance?

I did the carburetor adjustments and it seems a little better. Still a slow starter this morning, though. Put a bid in on a choke on E-bay.

Another question--on the kickdown linkage, I followed the directions printed on Reed's excellent super six article as best I could. I think the directions are for a 904 and not a 727 like on my truck. Anyways, I adjusted it so that the linkage on the transmission itself is fully forward with the kickdown linkage adjusted. The problem is that at wide open throttle the carb linkage does not kick the transmission link back as far as it will go. Which is more important, having the transmission lever go all the way to the front at idle, or all the way back at WOT?

Thanks,

Joe

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Joe Hoppe

71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"

Where you hook up the vacuum guage depends on what you are doing. If you are using it to adjust timing or mixturte you would want to arttach it to a constant vacuum source, such as the vacuum tee on the #6 intake runner.

The kickdown instructions were written for a 904 since by the time the Super Six was produced slants did not come equipped with 727s. However, I don't think the directions would be much different. You may need to track down a kickdown arm from a late 70s 904 or 727 and swap it out to correct your problem of the lever not going all the way back.

Reed

Reed and CLint, thanks for all your help.

No dripping venturies, even when the car is idling, so I think the float is OK. Bought a vacuum gauge and I've got almost 20# of vacuum and 10 BTDC, which I think is probably about as far as I want to go.

Metering rods and accelerator pump adjusted.

I haven't driven it since advancing the timing. It was at about 18# between 5-8 BTDC.

I'll see how it runs.

Thanks for all the suggestions,

Joe

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Joe Hoppe

71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"