If you pull and swap the whole axle and spring assembly it's just a matter a matter of putting a jack under the 'pumpkin', taking the tires off(if it has it...), pulling the brake line at the 'T' block (or if you're really fast, just cut the brake line/hose at the 'T' and remove the remains later...). Pull the driveline (undo the u-joint at the yoke...)
You then have 4 nuts/bolts on each spring/shackle hangar to 'undo'( take liquid wrench) once these are free the springs and axle assembly should drop to the ground when you let the jack down...I have long arms so I put a set of rims back on the assembly and wheel it like a wheelbarrow to the counter and say '$50?'
There are 'other issues' to deal with though....
The axle is narrower than the 'nice' 7 1/4 under your late A-body, so your current brakes may not bolt up so readily (or at all...)
If your car has the 5 on 4.5" (large bolt pattern) lugs, the pre-70's had 5 on 4 pattern so that may not work for you...
You can't swap axleshfts, etc...only the ring gear and pinion from this axle to yours if you had to go that route...
On pre-70 cars, you had the dreaded 'reverse threaded' lugs on the driver's side...not many places carry lugnuts that thread on when you spin them counter clockwise... (you'll have one axle shaft/ that will be this way...)
Make sure before pulling it, it is 3.23...these mostly show up under 3 speed manual cars (column shift or floor shift 3 speeds...) other ratios can be 2.94 or 2.76(auto)...
Hate to see you go through all that work just to find 1) the ratio wasn't what you wanted, 2) the dreaded 'weird' lug nut issue , 3) your rims won't fit due to bolt pattern....
if everything else is a go, and you can remember what kind of car you got it out of when ordering brake components, you should be OK...I think I'd find a better donor though or just get the gears and have a shop swap them in for $200....
-D.Idiot
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