hey pierre
I would'n reccomend to use any solvent inside... I'll remove the pieces then cleaning the inside and parts with sae 30 oil (not even WD 40).
It's easier then it seems to be. Also is messier
Wish you good luck!
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| Cleaning inside of an 8 3/4" pig https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9556 |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Sun Jun 13, 2004 3:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | Cleaning inside of an 8 3/4" pig |
I got some dirt and small rocks in mine as I dragged it along the floor and need to clean it. If I remove the main caps, pull out the ring/spider gears, clean out the inside, and torque them back down to spec, will that mess with the gear mesh or anything else important? I have never gotten into the heart of a rear before so I have not a clue here.... I don't think it is a problem but I'd like to check first. I thought about just using a continous stream of wd40 or any other aresol can oil but I don't think that would be enough pressure. The water hose + gun would do it but I'm afraid of rust, especially in the bearings. Maybe hit it with water then quickly follow it with liberal dosing of wd40 to prevent any rust? I have a bucket of carb cleaner I could dip it in (hmm, not all the way in, because if that stuff gets on the seal it will make it swell big time) or perhaps some other weaker solvent.... Any ideas/suggestions? |
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| Author: | argentina-slantsixer [ Sun Jun 13, 2004 5:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
hey pierre I would'n reccomend to use any solvent inside... I'll remove the pieces then cleaning the inside and parts with sae 30 oil (not even WD 40). It's easier then it seems to be. Also is messier Wish you good luck!
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| Author: | Pierre [ Sun Jun 13, 2004 1:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well thats the issue, I can't reach any of the debris unless I remove the ring/spider gear assembly. If I can remove the assembly without having to do any special measurments for reassembly then I have no problem, otherwise I have to use a pressurized liquid or perhaps a piece of wire. |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Sun Jun 13, 2004 3:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
You would probably have to mess with the carrier bearing adjusters to get it all back together, which doesn't require a ton of work, but you'd want to check backlash in the gearset after adjusting (need dial indicator). What about some small engine brushes or a toothbrush? I think the water followed by WD-40 would probably be OK, but only if you're planning on running it in a car right after. Rust would be my worry too, but you might also lodge debris deep inside the carrier by trying to blow it out. Compressed air might be another idea? Access to a parts washer w/solvent? Lou |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Sun Jun 13, 2004 9:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yea I have a parts washer from harbor freight, it holds a few gallons and has a pump, and brush attachment so the solvent comes through the middle of the brush. It is a very mild solvent, won't harm rubber at all. Probably better then water as I don't think it will rust anything. I haven't looked at the pumpkins in a few weeks. Hopefully it will have less crud in it then I recall it having 
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| Author: | busboy [ Mon Jun 14, 2004 5:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have to do the same thing with a flea market 7 1/4 housing/suregrip I just got and am planning to use the varsol I have for my parts washer. I don't think it should damage any seals and does leave a little residue to help ward off rust. Anyone done this? |
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| Author: | bud L. [ Tue Jun 15, 2004 9:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | ? |
I think you could get away with pressure washing it, as long as you followed it with compressed air and then rinsed it in lite oil, like 10W, maybe even ATF. Is there a sure grip on it? If so, what kind? I might think differently, if it had a posi. |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Wed Jun 16, 2004 12:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Nope, stock open differential. |
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