I am new to slant 6's and I have a 71 swinger with about 70000 miles on it. It has points (which I want to convert and have the parts for) a newly rebuilt carb, new fuel lines, pump, etc. The problem is, the car won't hold a steady idle. Also it doen't sound right when you try to time it. (Just got a tune up as well, but the timing won't hold). I am not an expert by any means, I just want the damn car to run right. Any detailed ideas to troubleshoot and narrow down the problem to something specific? I have been doing the process of elimination up until now, because most of the parts changed needed changing anyway from age and wear and tear. HELP!!! By the way, other than the idle, it runs fine, I just can't stop in traffice or wait for lights. It only stalls when in drive.

hey there

I had the same issue many times

could be...

wrong valvle lash setting (if you run a stock cam solid lifters is .10 in .20 ex)
too much heat on the fuel lines (reroute it over the valvle cover)
clogged idle ducts inside the carb
vacuum leak
bad PCV valvle
lean carburetion
wrong timing as you mention, how much initial advance it has? near 10 should be fine, but you'll need to chech on your dist advance curve and max mech advance (overall advance shouldn't go over 32 degrees BTDC)
bad points gaping
bad spark plugs gaping (.035 max)
dead coil (does it get too hot?)

good luck! I hate when my rides crap on me

Likely reasons, in order:
vacuum leak
vacuum leak
vacuum leak
vacuum leak
vacuum leak

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panic, I was thinking..... Suppose it could be a vacuum leak?

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

you're wrong and if you cool down and think better you'll realize that's this is due to a vacuum leak, or maybe panic and dennis are rite

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

By vacuum leak , they may suggest you do the following.

Check for cracked, missing or incorrectly attached vacuum lines.
Check for loose mounting of the carburetor and manifolds, don't overtighten manifold nuts!, but make sure the carb doesn't "wobble".

Oh my God!!!!! my vacuum is leeeeeeaking!!!!

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Since your still running points, make sure they are gapped correctly and not pitted or dirty. Also, insure the distributer shaft is not moving (if original distributer, it could be worn out). Hook up a timing light. Does the timing mark jump around at idle? The above mentioned will cause this. Oh yeah, check for vacuum leaks also.

Hey, how about a vacuum leak?

D/W

_________________

If it ain't broke, fix it!

I just about spit my drink all over the screen

Yea, its time to get some VAC-STOP-LEAK. I just went through this entire little mess... Erratic idle and ugly stumble off idle.. I tightened down the carb and replaced an ancient line which had split, and now the idle sounds exceptionally good (except for the crankshaft death song, but that's another story!)

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When in doubt, empty the magazine.
'72 Dart Swinger /6 - My Yard Dart!
'01 Ranger P/U 4x4 X-cab
We buy and sell MOPARTS & Ford Parts!!!
http://www.usironauto.com

One way to check for a vacuum leak is to partially close the choke flap to see if that will smooth-out the idle and keep the engine running.
It could be that the so-called rebuilt carb has a plugged idle circuit.
Do you get response out of the idle air/fuel adjustment screw??
DD

My other favorite is putting a towel over a 4 barrel carb and watching the mill keep idling for 5 minutes before it chugs to a halt...

Repeat after me: V-A-CCU-U-M Leak....



-D.Idiot

I thank all of you, all the hoses are brand new, the carb I think was a very sloppy rebuild, also I hate holleys, does anyone know of a person who has a good carter 1bbl? I did notice the gasket on the manifold to the head is shot and I got all the peices for an electronic conversion from the points. I am hoping that will solve the problem. If you have any other ideas, feel free to post it here.

by the way, I also already thought of vacuum leaks but changed all the vacuum hoses. They are in the proper places, and all brand new.. By the way I just registered and it is now lilicrashes.

The most common vacuum leak is the 'dead' intake gasket. It runs fine them when the manifold gets hot and expands a bit... it dies out, goes lean, etc... and it always does it when you aren't looking for the leak, and never shows up when you're idling in the driveway with some propane or 'spritz' trying to find the leak.

Invest in a Mr. Gasket #320 and stop that leak.

-D.Idiot

Watsa "Mr.Gasket #320"