Hold the brake pedal and hit the gas. On the tach, your 2300 rpm stall converter will make the transmission grab when the engine hits around 2300 rpm. A higher stall like 3000 will allow you engine to rev into the higher rpm range before a launch. I don't know how that effects shifting, but I imagine it's similiar.

High stall converters are good when a performance cam pushes more power to the high rpm ranges, or a high idle is required due to engine modifications.

I don't think a high stall would be a good way of overcomming steep rearend gearing, because that would cause abnormally high stress on the transmission and rear.

Hope that helps.

so if I understood right, a hi stall converter would crap on me during "my wife is sitting by me" kinda driving (slooooow and easy )

I was asking cuz I upgraded to duals, mild cam, shaved and ported head, shaved block, hi comp pistons, etc etc and I thought that maybe some convertor upgrade would make those modifications shine up more.

by the way, my rear end is a 8 1/4 dana 44 3.07:1

Remember this: An aftermarket converter's stall speed is going to vary depending upon what motor it is put behind and the torque output. It is going to stall lower than the advertised RPM when you put it behind a slant six.

I'm sure they base their advertised stall speed on a V8, probably a shivvy 350. Knowing this, I still was too conservative in the selection of a converter for my 225-4V Duster... The one I went with was rated @ 2500 - 2800 RPM (I think). On the to-do list is to swap it for one rated @ 3000 or above (knowing it will stall significantly lower behind my six).

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

I never would have thought of that Dennis.

Someone was explaining that to me this weekend, that his 4000 rpm stall converter in his slant six race car engaged at 3200 rpm. It went completely over my head, but now I understand how torque comes into the stall equation.

Don't they ask how many horses you are rated at when you buy the converter????

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

The buyer is the one who needs to ask questions

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

IO to get wheter I need a stall converter or not....

my engine has special cam, and it tends to idle "not-so-smooth". when the engine is hot, this not so smooth may go to demi rough and sometimes, if the engine idle speed is right, the engine stalls when I stop at a red light on D after a long "peppy" cruise. If I shift to N, ain't stalls. So maybe the stock converter would need to be replaced with a higer stall one?

thanks

Cox bros. recommended a 3500 stall converter because a slant six needs the higher stall converter because of its dropoff, as stated in previous posts. His wife'salmost stock '74 Dart, daily driver, was about a full second quicker in the 1/4 than it was with a 2500 converter. Even HE was surprised at this substantial difference. His wife's car is now turning respectable mid to low 15's in the quarter, as opposed to 16's with the 2500 converter. They sell either one for the same price, but he recommended to me that I try the 3500 in my hypo slant 225. The lower the torque an engine produces, the lower the rpm the converter will go into direct drive; so a low torque six cylinder engine will not reach the advertised rpm before going direct. I imagine a slant six with few mods will lose about 700-800 rpms off the advertised numbers. My engine is at the builder's waiting in line for headjob, cam, Dutra Dual Duals, overbore, etc. I'm building a street car to run in the 15's, so this looks like the right converter for my '62 Signet 904. I'll post later when the engine's done.

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Restored '62 Signet, 229 4bl, Offy intake, auto, Dual Dutra exhausts, shaved head and block, high stall converter, 1.6 roller rockers, etc.