I have a broken stud on my cylinder head. Its the rear most one. Someone has tried to drill it and ethier broke the drill or an extractor off in it. Which ever the case, it very hard metal and it breaks or dulls high quality drill bits. What ideas do you have to repair this problem?
I have even tried grinding it using a rotery tool and stone that has been shaped into a point. This made some progress but there is still hard metal in there. I have also tried to drill a tiny hole next to it and use a punch to shater the hard material into the small hole. This made a bit more progress. At this point the hole is about 3/8 and the same deep. I the past I have heated these broken extractor to a cherry red to soften them for drilling, but this has alway been in steel. This head is of course cast and Iam worried about cracking it. If I had seen this before we did all the head work I would have just used another head.
Your thoughts please.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Heat

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I have a long story about a long, dragged-out, subfreezing-cold, expensive and difficult effort I made back in high school to replace just such a broken-off rearmost stud. I'm pretty sure it's been lost to the ages and series of computers. Too bad, it had some funny parts (funny IF you weren't me or my father or my poor, abused cylinder head).

General principles to remember:

• Whoever named the so-called "Easy-Out" ought to be shot. It's blatantly false advertising. There's nothing easy about it, they won't get the stud out, and when they break off, you won't get them out, either.

• Ed Dreistadt was right on when he said, after breaking off a drill bit or an "easy out" on the same task many years ago "You can't drill through tool steel, so I took the head to the machine shop. Two days later, they called me to tell me they can't drill through tool steel, either."

• Just because my repair involved a hammer drill, a jigsaw, a grossly oversized stud, JB-Weld and a strip heater meant for working with Plexiglas, doesn't mean yours should. It shouldn't.

How 'bout a stepped stud that's got bigger threads on one end and smaller on the other? Dorman #675-097. It has 3/8"-16 threads on the head side, and the stock 5/16"-24 threads on the manifold side. Overall length is a little shorter than the 675-092 standard replacement stud, but that's of no consequence. That's what I wound up successfully using at the end of the long comedy of ignorant errors and dumb mistakes described above. All you have to do is overdrill the hole straight and true. Head on engine: Not a problem. Manifold on head: Not a chance.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Actually you can get close to doing this..........

Use a threaded insert on the head, then screw your stud into the threaded insert (I'm not talking about a heli-coil......)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Carbide tipped concrete drill bit. Drill the center out and collapse the outer diameter into the center with a punch.

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Super Six Conversion Stromberg

Take it to a machine shop with a spark erroder and get it spark erroded out.
Al

Fine I'll say it.

Get a new head

you need EZ lock.

http://www.ezlok.com/Home/index.html

i used them on a 318 with the same problem. including the broken off SO CALLED EZ ou. work great.

all you'll need is an "X" drill, a 7/16-14 tap, PATIENCE, and the EZ locks.

sb

apparently he has already done a lot of work to that head....same reason i fixed my 318 heads.

sb

Actually, I was wondering how you rebuild a head and not notice a broken stud?

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I mispoke. I didn't miss the broken stud, I missed the broken extractor in the broken stud.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Also called a "Sinker" EDM machine.

Do it yourself "hacks" have been know to use small carbon rods and their arc welder.

Drilling a series of small holes around the tool steel, then punching it thru is another method.
DD

Guess I'm a "hack", because this not only works, but works better than
any other way I have tried!! the stud can even be below the surface
and you can still get it out with only miner damage to the head.
Belive me, I have tried every one of the above, some more than
once with verous results. One thing I have not done is use the welder
with a broken ez out in the hole (I have not used a ez-out in 20 years), so can't say it will still work with that.

How I do it is> take a nut (sometimes you will need a few before you get
it out), hold the nut to the face of the hole with a vis-grip, take my wire feed and
hit it though the hole till it fills. Put a wrench on the nut, after it cools and twist,
repeat till the stud comes out. Chase the hole with the right tapp when done. It will often take a few tries to get it to move.

You may loose a few threads at the surface, but the weld does not like
to stick to the castiron so damage is very little. The real advantage
to this is that it SUPER heats the stud and helps brake it loose.
I have been doing this for years now since I learned the trick from
a pro exhaust guy. It has never failed me and save hours of banging my
head over a broken studs.

I also use this on studs that stick out
of the head, or other bolts on the body/frame, keeps them from braking off closer to the head. In this case
I use a oversized nut that will slide down the stud.

Laugh, poo-poo, call it what you may, ect. it works!

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http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Belveder A318 727 4d
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4spOD
Old iron or no iron