It all has to be assembled correctly. Disregard the rubber band in the picture. The nylon cam (green arrow) that pulls the accelerator pump stem (yellow arrow) when the throttle is closed needs to be installed correctly, and the link (red arrow) from the throttle lever to the nylon cam needs to be installed and adjusted correctly. The spring between the pump diaphragm and the carb body has to be present, it can't have become permanently compressed, and it has to be nice and springy. There can't be any flaws in the seal formed by the combination accelerator pump diaphragm/metering block-to-body seal. The metering block itself has to be in good shape; there are a couple of check balls that have to seat if the accelerator pump is to work. And of course, the passages from the accelerator pump chamber to the carb throat have to be free and clear.

The accelerator pump spring is number 52 in this diagram, indicated by the green arrow:

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Bruce,

I went through this on a couple of 1920 carbs. On the first one a 1963 and the second one a 1973 or newer Economaster the check balls were not in place, rolling around in the bottom and the economiser pump gasket overlapped the accelerator pump squirter hole a little too much when the screws were snugged tight. When the carb is apart you can find the accelerator pump squirter hole by squirting carb cleaner through the different holes.

One of the master carb builders up here (he is in his 70's) sold me a good gasket, the one that the economiser body sandwiches. He punched a larger hole in it for the accelerator pump to squirt through. I also took out all of the slop in the linkage that goes to the plastic cam and reamed the cam slightly so it rotates easily. He also sold me a thinner gasket to put under the vacuum actuated power valve which makes it engage quicker, and sold me a new plastic arm. No more gap between the plastic power valve arm and the piston.

Now I get a very healthy squirt and boost which will break the P235 60 14 tires loose with a 2.76 posi-traction 8 3/4 rear end. Now that is quite a bit of power for a single barrel.

From what I had before, this was a heck of an improvement. I will stay with the little Holley 1920 until I can find a good 4 barrel set up. Most folks don't believe it until I show them.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Ted, we both know how much torque those 1-bbls can make , but I recently put a Offy 4-bbl+ Edelbrock 500 on my car. I have to recommend this setup.....tuning is a breeze; I changed the rods and step-up springs in 5 minutes. Off Idle torque is unbelievable. There really is no comparison to overall power. (I'm still trying different fuel curves to find the best one.) It CAN drink massive amounts of gas though, especially when your getting things "set". I'm now partial to this induction system.....
Sorry for hijacking the thread.....

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

Bigblock,

Sounds like a plan........
Just found a Weiand 4 barrel manifold for the SL6. Hope it will work well or as good as the Offenhauser. I have heard that the 500 Edelbrock is a good combination. I bought a 600 Edel for one of my 440 cars, wife's 72 Imperial. I know what you mean about how easy they are to tune. I had to go to one size smaller rods to take away a lean surge at crusie. A 10 minute job. It is an excellent carb.!

If you think my engine build is enough for the 500, I would love to try it. Still need to find the 2 barrel kick down rod. Every time I think I got one nailed, I am out bid. Let me know what size rods you end up with in the 500.

My set up is really sweet but, it would be nice to wind up to 4000 a little quicker. I wind up good to about 2700 but after that I think the 1920 restricts airflow too much. I can get to 4000 but it takes about a 1/8 mile, or a long freeway on-ramp to hit 90 mph.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks for everyone’s help on my carburetor acceleration problem. As Dan had suspected it was the accelerator pump plus a few other things I would have never figured out on my own.

At Dan's suggestion I sent it away to be refurbished. Dan suggested I send my Holly 1920 to Max at Buzzard Carburetor. www.buzzardcarburetors.com. Excellent suggestion Dan, Max was a true pro the carburetor came back looking brand new and all the issues were resolved. Max called me several times to be sure he understood exactly the issue I was having.

I bolted the carburetor on and the car started right up and runs perfectly. According to Max the rebuild kits available for this carburetor can have some parts that aren’t always correct, there was also an issue with the economizer assembly body and float spring. I only wished I had done this sooner.

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Thanks

Bruce
'73 Ply Scamp 225 1bbl

Glad I could be of service. Pulled some of whats left of my hair out trying to figure what was realy wrongggggggg. Max @ buzzard Carburetor