Hi all,

I'm getting ready to swap an 8-1/4 rear end from a 1975 Dart into my 1967 Barracuda. I've been searching for a comprehensive article which details the process, and lays out all the parts needed, but haven't located one yet. Just trying to do a little research, and make sure I have all the parts, before I begin. I'd appreciate any tips from those who have done it.

So far, I have the rear end, shock plates and drive shaft. I am still looking for U-bolts with the flattened-out part where they go around the axle housing. I seem to recall reading that they might still be available new from Chrysler?

Questions I still have:

- Is there any difference in the emergency brake cables between the two axles, and the way they attach?

- Any difference in the way the brake lines hook up?

As always, thanks for any advice

Roger

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I doubt it. Just go to a spring shop and have them bend you new round u-bolts for $5 each.
No. It is easiest to keep the cables with the axle they were originally built with and then just detach the cables form the e-brak cable under the car.
No. Break the line at the soft hose between the hardline on the body and the axle.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I swapped an 8 1/4 into my '67 Valiant so I've been there, done that.

The only U-bolts I've bought from Chrysler while not full round where they meet the axle they aren't as flattened out as the originals I've seen. Round cross section bolts aren't the end of the world.

If your Barracuda's parking brake cables are the same as a Valiant, and I bet they are, you will have to keep the parking brake cables with the body and put them in the backing plates of the 8 1/4.

The 8 1/4's brake hose is in the proper place. Brake hoses are date coded. If yours is more than 20 years old I'd replace it.

Too bad the rear end didn't come from a 108" wheelbase car like a Duster or Dart Sport. The 111" wheelbase Dart driveshaft is too long.

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Joshua

I've done this too, and Josh is correct. For those not familiar the late A-body uses 2 equal size cables at the backing plate and the e-brake is a big "u" of cable, the adjuster under the passenger side, the pull cable under the driver's side...

On the '67 it has just one cable from the pull handle with a 't-plate' and adjusting nut...the cables go from the backing plate to a body bracket under the rear drivers side seat...the passenger side cable is about twice as long as the driver's side...

Good Luck on the swap. You can also buy new u-bolts over the counter, Dorman/Help used a stock a nice cadmium plated set for $13 a box of 2...so $26 for an axle swap.

-D.Idiot

Make sure you use the shock plates from the '75. The axle tube diameter is lager on the 8.25 axle and the shock plates don't swap easily.

Whoops. Thanks DI. I used to know that, but it has been too long since I messed with pre-73 A-body axle swaps.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Thanks for all the info so far, guys.

To clarify - the rear end I have is from a '75 Dart. The drive shaft is from a '73 Duster w/904 and 8-1/4" rear. Between the center lines of the u-joints, it measures just under 49" in length. Hopefully, it's the correct one.

As for the soft brake line, according to the tech archive on Moparts, the 72-76 uses Wagner part # F86608. I know the end that attaches to the rear end itself is completely different. But it looks like the other end has the same type fitting that is currently on the car(?).

My biggest question involves the switch to new wheels and tires. Is the 8-1/4 rear the same width as the 7-1/4? I want to make sure I get the correct width and backspacing on my wheels. I plan to go with Rallye type wheels, but not sure where I'll get them yet (Wheel Vintiques, etc). Any suggestions on size (width/offset) and vendor would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Roger

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That Duster driveshaft shoud work for you.

Again, use the brake cables from the 7 1/4 in the 8 1/4.

I don't like little wheels and tires. 15x7" with 4 1/4" backspace (this is 1/4" positive offset) fits easily. 215/60R15 is about the same height as a 185/75R14. Here's your Chrysler Rallye: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WVI-56-5712044/

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Joshua

Thanks for the wheel link, Joshua.

Yes, I'll be swapping the emergency brake cables over. I was looking at them today, and they're completely different lengths.

I also don't like little wheels and tires, but I don't want to go too far the other way. I've seen some that are way too big. I'd just like to fill up the wheel wells nicely, without rubbing or hitting anything.

Roger

Your Barracuda has pretty big wheel wells. 235/60R15 on a 7" wide, 1/4" positive offset wheel will fit and clear fine. I even ran that on an early A-body. The front are 205/50R15. 205/60R15 up front would have been good too and looked a little more proportional. Like on the green car.

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Joshua

Josh,
Do you know what drive shaft I will need for the setup I plan to go to? In my '69 Dart I currently have the 7 1/4" rear, A904 auto, and I measured my ds c2c at 54 5/16" (as accurate as I could get at ride height, on my back with tape measure). I'm switching to an a833od with Ford 8.8" rear (axle2u-joint dist. 11 5/8") which is very close to the 8 1/4" dimension (11.69"). So for the sake of my sanity, I'll consider whatever ds would allow the 8 1/4 to go in (~52 23/32" assuming the OD doesn't create a dimension issue itself).

At the yard today I measured a '73 Valiant ds at 51 3/8". It had a 318, missing trans, and 7 1/4" (!?!? I thought all v8 had at least 8 1/4" rears by then). Also a '67 Valiant ds came to 51 5/8" with /6 and 7 1/4" rear. These seem too short by over an inch. Were Valiant shafts always shorter than Darts'? Do I need to look for 73-76 Dart ds with 8 1/4 rear?

I suppose if it comes down to it, the 8.8 uses a flange on the pinion and I can make a spacer to go between the ds u-joint adapter and flange and use longer bolts!

From 1967 to 1973 or so, I forget exactly which year, Valiants are 108" wheelbase. Later ones switched to the Dart chassis. Darts are 111" so the driveshaft lengths are 3" different with identical transmissions and rear axles. Dart Sports and Demons are 108" WB as they are really Dusters in Dodge drag. Since you're putting an 8.8" Ford axle under the car I'm not even going to try to guess the proper length. As for a 7 1/4 being in a V8 car? They did that all the way through the last 5th Ave.

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Joshua

Hmm. Interesting but are you talking strictly about 2-door Vals. These that I've found are 4-doors. Are those 111" wheelbase?

For 1967 the wheelbase grew to 108" and stayed there through 1973. The body style doesn't matter except for the Plymouth Scamp which is a Dart hardtop in Plymouth drag. In 1974 Valiants were built on the 111" Dart wheelbase.

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Joshua

Hey guys,

I'm still working on the 8.25 swap into my Barracuda. Before I install it, I'm cleaning it up a bit, and re-doing the brakes. This rear came from a salvage yard, so I have no idea what condition it's in. Since I'm disassembling this much, would you recommend I go ahead and replace the wheel bearings? If so, how do the axles come out? I have FSM's for '66 and '67, but the 8.25 rear wasn't manufactured until '69. There's tons of info on the 8.75, but not so much for this one. I'm guessing there must be a clip in the center section that holds the axles in? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks very much.

Roger

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