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 Post subject: normal charging
PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 9:37 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 2:52 pm
Posts: 103
Location: Fairfield,Ohio 45014
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To start with, my battery stays charged good and my car seems almost normal electrically. I say almost because there is one point I am not sure about.

That point is, when I am out driving, the ammeter starts going c+ for short period of time(15 to 30 seconds would be a guess) then goes back to center. Is this normal? Been many years since I drove a car with an ammeter and an external regulator.

The alternator is relatively new and the regulator could very well be original. The car was a shed find and regulator has all the factory markings. I've checked all my grounds and connections.

Thanks, Dennis


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 1:24 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2006 6:32 pm
Posts: 239
Location: Crescent City Florida
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Replace the original mechanical voltage regulator with a newer electronic one either search the forum on this topic or I am sure Dan will chime in with a part number for you.

Brian

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 7:11 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Location: Fairfield,Ohio 45014
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Anyone out there got a part number on a good one if that is my problem?

I tried to use the search function but got way too many hits to sort through if someone out there happens to know of one.
Thanks, Dennis


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 7:17 am 
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What year and model is your car, please? It matters.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 7:54 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Location: Fairfield,Ohio 45014
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1966 Valiant


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:10 am 
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Oh yeah, duh, sorry, it was right in front of me.

Use a Standard VR-128 or a NAPA Echlin VR-1001.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:35 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 2:52 pm
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Location: Fairfield,Ohio 45014
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It's all good. Not good to assume things.

Okay, I'm not getting this. Sorry to be so thick but my regulator has 2 hook ups. Not at home right now but if I remember correctly, a field and a ign. One has the slip on connector and the other is screwed on.

My question is how do the ones you suggest hook up? The hook ups are nothing like mine. Thanks, Dennis


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 2:58 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
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Location: Downeast Maine
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Both units connect the same as the old factory unit, field bolts on, and ignition lead plugs in to a pigtail. They will also bolt right up to the fire wall using the same holes.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 5:12 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 2:52 pm
Posts: 103
Location: Fairfield,Ohio 45014
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Ahhhh! I see it now! Just looking from the wrong perspective.

Okay. One question leads me to another. That is a chunk of change for a regulator so I can I run a higher amp alternator with it as a bonus?

Thanks for all he help guys. Dennis


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 7:26 pm 
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Well…no. Not without additional upgrades which you definitely ought to make whether or not you go to a higher-amp alternator. See here. Perhaps you've seen the site someone usually points to in threads like this, which babbles on about the ticking time bomb that is the Mopar ammeter. Bulk wrap! Yes, it can stand to be upgraded. No, it is not a ticking time bomb. I used to recommend an ammeter beef-up or stealth voltmeter conversion of the stock ammeter by R/T Engineering, but they split off that activity to Dashworx, and I can't find the ammeter stuff on either company's page any more, and there are upsetting reports of endless waits for parts to arrive. Sad.

There are other companies that do the stealth voltmeter conversion, such as http://www.redlinegaugeworks.com/services.asp who get good reviews. I've also seen people successfully buy a Sunpro voltmeter, tear it apart, and mount the old ammeter face over it. This is easier on some dash configurations than others. See here and here for more ideas.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 9:18 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 2:52 pm
Posts: 103
Location: Fairfield,Ohio 45014
Car Model:
Thanks for all the info. I read all the threads and found lots of good useable stuff. I rewired my headlights with a relay system and ran a 10 ga. wire from the alt battery terminal to the positive on the battery and I got my new VR-128 regulator installed. By the way, my alt meter now reads really steady in the middle(it does move tho) even with the wire from the alt to the battery. I thought that would render my alt meter useless?

Now I have more questions.

1. Will the hot wire from the alternator to the battery cause the battery to overcharge? Seems like it would?

2. What other wiring should I upgrade after the wire from the alt. bat. terminal to the bulkhead connector?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 10:15 am 
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Location: North America
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No, the wire you added will not cause overcharging. The ammeter will show discharge, but will no longer show charging.

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