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 Post subject: Tips on exhaust
PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 1:50 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2008 8:49 pm
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Location: Bowling Green, KY
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No not the exhaust tips, I need help on fabricating a new exhaust system.

I don't have a welder or a tubing bender, so I was wondering how can I do up a new system without paying the high cost at an exhaust shop. Anyone do an exhaust themselves?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 2:05 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
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Not without at least a welder.

you can buy pre-bent pieces at well-stocked auto parts stores and can rent a welder. It won't be pretty, but it is doable. Be ready to get some white-out to assist in aligning the parts on the car and then removing them to get a good weld all the way around the joint to avoid leaks.

The hardest part will be fabricating the headpipe flange at the exhaust manifold. Easiest solution would be to buy one off of a parts car or a scrapped car.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 6:37 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 8:08 pm
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Location: Nelson, B.C.
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Unfortunately for you my advice is to take it to a shop and get it done right. I'm totally spoiled having three of my best friends in the biz so I don't even attempt it anymore. Keeping it tight to the original path is difficult if you've never done it before and sagging or leaking seams are the worst. Find a small shop that you trust and expect to pay between $200-300 front to rear.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 6:47 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
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Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
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i do not use a welder or u-bolts for my seams. i use stainless steel band clamps. the most commonly available ones are made by nelson, the same company that makes filters. the high-end exhaust shops can get them right down to 1 inch diameter. it's a thin band of 304 stainless that you wrap around the joint and tighten two bolts at the seam, the metal stretches to seal the joint and is strong enough to support it if it is a slip-fit. the best part is it can readily be unbolted for removal. these clamps are used on heavy trucks all the time. example:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 8:16 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Bowling Green, KY
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Quote:
i do not use a welder or u-bolts for my seams. i use stainless steel band clamps.
Now thats my kind of solution!

But what about the part that connects to the exhaust manifold, where could I get one of those?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 12:44 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 6:50 pm
Posts: 196
Location: walton NY
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buy a cheap mig and a roll of flux core non gas wire end of story lol

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 2:27 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
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just get a header pipe bent at the exhaust shop, theyll bend a pipe and weld a flange on it. shouldnt cost you much at all.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 7:48 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Bowling Green, KY
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Hmm, sounds great! Im gonna start amassing parts here pretty soon. Im gonna get a muffler that has dual outs so I can run a dual exhaust setup. Has anyone done that before?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 10:01 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 6:50 pm
Posts: 196
Location: walton NY
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you can do it with a y pipe or if you have headers... which is why dual exaust exists 8)

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87 d150 2bbl carb 225
79 f250 300 v8
97 cavalier z24
83 f150 straight 6
89 f450 diseal 4x4 dually 5sp


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2008 6:44 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:36 pm
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Location: East Arkansas
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Remember to run 2 1/4 pipe no larger or smaller.
Frank

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2008 7:10 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:29 am
Posts: 227
Location: Blue Hill, Maine
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Can someone share some knowledge here. As I understand it, the original exhaust (at least for my 62 /6) is 1 3/4". A better diameter is 2 1/4". Again, I'm going to assume it will flow better. Now, with stock exhaust manifold would it be more efficient to keep it single exhaust or Y pipe it before the muffler or split it after the muffler?
Has anyone worked with Waldron's Antique Exhaust? They are supposed to make an OEM exhaust. I would assume it's 1 3/4.
Thanks.
Joe


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2008 9:26 am 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24799
Location: North America
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It really is best to have the pipework done on site by a competent exhaust shop, rather than re-handcuff yourself to too-small factory-type pipes (not to mention shipping such pipes, which is a costly hassle).

There is no functional point to splitting a single pipe anywhere after it leaves the manifold, though some people do it because they want the appearance of dual exhausts.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2008 11:40 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:29 am
Posts: 227
Location: Blue Hill, Maine
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Excellent, thanks again Dan. Question answered.
Joe


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2008 12:25 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 6:50 pm
Posts: 196
Location: walton NY
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ya i agree with dan or just get a cheap mig practice welding and fabricating then do ur exaust research and build its simple..

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87 d150 2bbl carb 225
79 f250 300 v8
97 cavalier z24
83 f150 straight 6
89 f450 diseal 4x4 dually 5sp


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 06, 2008 1:35 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:29 am
Posts: 227
Location: Blue Hill, Maine
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Is there any such thing as a cheap MIG??
Joe


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