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 Post subject: RPM limits
PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 10:14 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2008 8:57 am
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Location: Edge of the World
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I have a 73 Dart with a /6 & 904. This is my first time to do something more to a /6 than drive it. I'd like to end up with a good highway cruiser.

1. What is the RPM limit for a 225 with the stock intake & valve train?

2. Does adding more air (cam and carb) raise the limit? Or, is the 225 limited rpm wise due to lack of air.

3. I have a Comp Cams 260H and an AussieSpeed 4 bbl manifold that I plan to install. Should I change out the valve springs? I have not decided if I want to go to the oversize valves.

4. I have heard that the Achilles Heel of these engines is oil starvation on the camshaft at high rpm. (whatever that is). Comments.

5. If you've grenaded one of these engines, how did it happen?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 4:58 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2005 8:22 am
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Location: Upstate SC
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I am also searching for a similar answer:

What is the highest rpm anyone has reliably turned a Slant 6 to? I've heard that the stock oiling system is good to 7500, is this true? Has anyone consistently run/shifted at this or higher rpms, stock or modified?

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Rob M
'80 D100 SWB stepside, S6 4-spd OD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 5:08 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14724
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
A stock Slant starts sucking wind around 4400 or so.

Like any motor, the Slant will respond to add ons. The more you do, the better the results. I shift mine around 62-6500. That is aboot the safest upper limit. I would be frightened to be around one much higher than that.

Probably the most common destruction would be tossing out the #5 rod.

I have killed one when my Mopar cam ate the oil pump gear on the tollway. The car ran low 14's at the time and I was driving 3 hours to get to a race track.

The most important thing aboot doing a Slant is to use your head and keep everything working together. It is real easy to fall into the "bigger is better" trap. With a 225" engine it just won't always work.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 5:20 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
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Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
IIRC theoretical redline for a stock slant (1bbl, straw-sized exhaust) is/was 5500 RPM, but as Slantzilla said, they won't spin much past 4400, and even if they do, they aren't making any power.

I've spun mine up to 5500 on my '71 Dart, but I had a large exhaust, and a modified 1bbl holley to make it do that.

Betcha I made a few people wonder what engine I had in an old crusty car doing 85 in second gear trying to pass a truck.. UPHILL!
:twisted:

~THOR~

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 Post subject: You what?
PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 6:16 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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If done properly, I've been OK up to 6200 or so on the 'stock' oiling system with a 'stock' replacement melling pump...bigger air inlet in and better outlet makes for a higher winding motor (stock 1 barrel kind of runs out around 4K at best... BBD 2 barrel is good for more, but it kind of goes 'flat' at a certain point... 4 barrel you'll probably throw a rod before you see 7K).

Not to ask... but you have a 1973 dart.. that should have a solid lifter camshaft stock and you have specified a Hydraulic comp cam number (260H... not 252S, 264...256X)...did some one swap out your original engine with one from 1981+ ?

Just checking...

-D.idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 7:33 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2004 11:21 pm
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Location: long beach ca
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Learend in Redding,you need 10 lbs of oil pressure for every 1,000 rpm.went tru the traps at 13.91,94 mph with about 40 lbs of pressure,Knock Knock,whats that noise,I now know you need more pressure at higher rpms,wish I knew this before,race and learn,mark


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 7:38 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2007 3:46 pm
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Location: Big Rapids, MI
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Quote:
Learend in Redding,you need 10 lbs of oil pressure for every 1,000 rpm.went tru the traps at 13.91,94 mph with about 40 lbs of pressure,Knock Knock,whats that noise,I now know you need more pressure at higher rpms,wish I knew this before,race and learn,mark
What was your engine speed at that point?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 7:48 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
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Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
He had to be running close to 6k on that run. IIRC, that was the run against me that this happened.

~THOR~

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 Post subject: Re: RPM limits
PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 9:39 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Aug 20, 2004 10:41 am
Posts: 131
Location: Saratoga Ca
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Quote:
3. I have a Comp Cams 260H and an AussieSpeed 4 bbl manifold that I plan to install. Should I change out the valve springs? I have not decided if I want to go to the oversize valves.
I have one of the AussieSpeed manifolds with a Holley 390, it works much better than my Clifford manifold. The only problem with it is that I had to spend about 3 hours with my die grinder to get the triangle washers to fit. If you don't have a die grinder (I have 3) or the time to fit the manifold I would get a Offenhouser 4 bbl manifold for ease of fitment. The Offy manifold will work with your stock manifold, headers or Dutra duals. The Aussie speed manifold will work with headers or Dutra duals...I have Dutra duals on mine and the current Clifford manifold will only work with headers. Headers can be a pain in the rear on a slant six. I could have made the Clifford manifold work with Dutra duals but I would have needed to do lots of grinding and Tig welding on the manifold to make it fit.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 7:37 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2004 11:21 pm
Posts: 1394
Location: long beach ca
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I was running tru the traps at 6,100 rpm,I have 456 gears and 26 inch tires,this car will do 98% of the time on a local 1/8th mile track,and driven back and forth to work,,,,only 1 mile each way,Vegas is 1/4 mile,I will have taller tires,same combo,WITH higher oil pressure,reground crank,new bearings,hopeing everthing else is ok,want to do a semi patch job on this,Mark


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 7:46 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2004 11:21 pm
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Location: long beach ca
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On the run that it failed,it was probabably under 6,000 because of spun bearing,went tru the traps 14.80 ish knocking,shut it down in the pits and it was done,stuck tighter than a frogs butt.mark


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 10:21 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2007 1:17 pm
Posts: 776
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
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it wa the #5 rod for me, put a hole in the bolck the size of my head lol !!!! also twisted the bottom of the piston off, was very nasty. but still drove it to a "safe" *ie 7eleven* about 1 1/2 miles down the road, even ideled for a minute before it shut off. But I sent it to the grave, drove with a rod knock for about 2 months,

-Mike

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 10:19 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2005 2:56 pm
Posts: 100
Location: Newfoundland Canada
Car Model:
I hade my car on a dino and it stoped makeing power at 5300 rpm but I was tearing up oil pump gears and hurting cams at 6000 rpms so I set the reve limiter at 5600 and had no trouble sence. The car had 148 hp at the rear wheels and 229 foot lbs of tq and with the nitrus 220 hp and 315 foot lbs of tq


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 11:01 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 1:50 pm
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Location: Pertneer Nashville TN
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My stock bottom end 198 was 4200-4400 on the power. I did actually spin it to 5900 on the dyno rollers. :shock:

M1 2bbl, BBD that was really running rich!

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93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto :-( Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 4:01 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2005 5:35 pm
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Location: Maine
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My best friend's slant also lost the #5 rod years ago.

Why is this the one to go? Why is it the weak spot?
And can it be prevented when rebuilding an engine?

-Mac


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