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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2022 1:16 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
How do you replace a clutch kit? On a 1983 slant six 4 speed manual. I'm assuming I have to drop the transmission right? Is it on the motor side or transmission side? Any helpful tips would be great. I'm going to get a carbon clutch. $300


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2022 6:44 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Mon May 26, 2014 4:02 pm
Posts: 341
Location: Vermont
Car Model: Slant Six powered M37
There is an Dust Cover behind the engine and in front of the transmission. It has 4 (?) bolts that hold it on, and removing that will allow you to look up into the bell housing. In there you will see the flywheel attached to the engine, then the clutch pressure plate and the clutch release linkage assembly.

The clutch disk and pressure plate are usually replaced together. The flywheel should be inspected to determine if it needs to be resurfaced. Also I believe some trucks had a 10.5" clutch, others had an 11" clutch, so don't order parts until you get yours apart. Also replace the throwout bearing at the same time, as you don't want to do this whole process again in a year because the T/O bearing failed.

Usually the driveshaft and transmission are removed. A transmission jack is very helpful, as well as strapping the transmission to the jack so it does not roll off onto you as you are wresting with the whole assembly to get it apart. Some do it with a big floor jack, but it is more difficult to balance the whole thing. There are floor jack "conversions" that turn a floor jack into a transmission jack..

Make sure you get a clutch disk alignment tool to assist reassembly. Also having two additional but longer bolts (with the hex cut off )that are the same size as the transmission bolts, can be threaded in the bell housing. Reassembly and getting the transmission input shaft to slide through the clutch disk splines when it is all installed is usually the most challenging and trying part of the whole process.

That is where the two additional now threaded rods help. Using them to help guide the transmission home, and it will support the transmission a bit as well. When everything is aligned up, the transmission will slide back together quite nicely. Usually there is some struggle to get it all aligned. Sometimes there is a lot of struggling to get things alined. Once the transmission is in place remove the headless alignment bolts and install the original fasteners.

Rock auto has both size clutches for around $100, and in my opinion I don't think you need a carbon clutch, as the slant is not a powerful engine in stock form. I am sure there are other places you can invest that extra $$ into your truck where you would notice the improvement in terms of drivability, reliability or even comfort.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2022 7:38 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3565
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
On my 83 D150 / slant six and OD A833 I have found it easiest to have the bell housing mounted to the transmission in the chassis and then using a cherry picked set the motor in place and bolt it to the bell housing. This way you are not needing to thread the pilot shaft of the transmission through the throw out bearing in the bell housing, as that is already done and set in place. I still use a couple of long bolts with the hex cut off to help align the rear of the block and the bell housing.
Taking the radiator out and leaving the crank damper off gives a bit more room up front.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2022 5:56 am 
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Supercharged
User avatar

Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 7735
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
If you are asking Basic Questions about this process, I might suggest a Video Like this to help you out:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QcWELyTbdP4


Not everything described in the video is going to be the same but it's the basic idea.

Yes the Transmission / Cross member / Driveshaft and sometimes exhaust need to be removed and then replaced to do the job.

While you are in there:
Replace The TOB, and Input Shaft Bearing / Bushing in the back of the crankshaft.
Your Engine will not have an external oil seal as in the video.

A Lift and Trans Jack is very helpful but it can be done as shown in the video with a good driveway and 6 Ton Stands whilst you wrestle everything on your back.

Greg

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2022 7:15 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
Jase wrote:
There is an Dust Cover behind the engine and in front of the transmission. It has 4 (?) bolts that hold it on, and removing that will allow you to look up into the bell housing. In there you will see the flywheel attached to the engine, then the clutch pressure plate and the clutch release linkage assembly.

The clutch disk and pressure plate are usually replaced together. The flywheel should be inspected to determine if it needs to be resurfaced. Also I believe some trucks had a 10.5" clutch, others had an 11" clutch, so don't order parts until you get yours apart. Also replace the throwout bearing at the same time, as you don't want to do this whole process again in a year because the T/O bearing failed.

Usually the driveshaft and transmission are removed. A transmission jack is very helpful, as well as strapping the transmission to the jack so it does not roll off onto you as you are wresting with the whole assembly to get it apart. Some do it with a big floor jack, but it is more difficult to balance the whole thing. There are floor jack "conversions" that turn a floor jack into a transmission jack..

Make sure you get a clutch disk alignment tool to assist reassembly. Also having two additional but longer bolts (with the hex cut off )that are the same size as the transmission bolts, can be threaded in the bell housing. Reassembly and getting the transmission input shaft to slide through the clutch disk splines when it is all installed is usually the most challenging and trying part of the whole process.

That is where the two additional now threaded rods help. Using them to help guide the transmission home, and it will support the transmission a bit as well. When everything is aligned up, the transmission will slide back together quite nicely. Usually there is some struggle to get it all aligned. Sometimes there is a lot of struggling to get things alined. Once the transmission is in place remove the headless alignment bolts and install the original fasteners.

Rock auto has both size clutches for around $100, and in my opinion I don't think you need a carbon clutch, as the slant is not a powerful engine in stock form. I am sure there are other places you can invest that extra $$ into your truck where you would notice the improvement in terms of drivability, reliability or even comfort.

I'll have to check on the size. But if I want to buy another flywheel so I can replace everything. At rock auto they only have an 11 inch one, if my truck had a 10.5 inch could i replace both clutch and flywheel with an 11 inch or would that not work?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2022 3:20 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 7408
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
With the 833 OD transmission your truck will have the 10" clutch. The large "truck" transmission uses an 11" clutch. No 10 1/2" clutch behind a slant 6 that I know of.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2022 7:39 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
Rick Covalt wrote:
With the 833 OD transmission your truck will have the 10" clutch. The large "truck" transmission uses an 11" clutch. No 10 1/2" clutch behind a slant 6 that I know of.

I don't think I have the OD 883 transmission though


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2022 7:40 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
Rick Covalt wrote:
With the 833 OD transmission your truck will have the 10" clutch. The large "truck" transmission uses an 11" clutch. No 10 1/2" clutch behind a slant 6 that I know of.

This is the picture of the shifter


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2022 9:03 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 7408
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
You are correct that is not the 833OD

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!
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12.80 @ 102.88
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2022 10:26 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
Rick Covalt wrote:
You are correct that is not the 833OD


So would that mean that my truck has the 11" clutch ?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2022 3:12 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 7408
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Probably, but there is an oddball "recessed" flywheel, clutch and pressure plate that they used also. These are not available anywhere that I have found including Chrysler. Here is the link to our problems and work around.

viewtopic.php?f=20&t=60634&hilit=flywheel

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!
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12.80 @ 102.88
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2022 7:39 am 
Offline
3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
Rick Covalt wrote:
Probably, but there is an oddball "recessed" flywheel, clutch and pressure plate that they used also. These are not available anywhere that I have found including Chrysler. Here is the link to our problems and work around.

viewtopic.php?f=20&t=60634&hilit=flywheel

Okay thank you ill check first.


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