I see the second photo did not post with the first so here is a close up of the coil and module..thankshttp://s1305.beta.photobucket.com/user/namercur/media/HEI_zps95a4b25e.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

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If only I had the time to do what I want to do instead of what I have to do!

When your in Photobucket looking at your pic, look at the right menu box called image links. Near the bottom of that box you will see a link named IMG code. Click on that code and it should say copied and change colour. Now, go to your post reply here (\6 forum) and right click in the reply box. Choose paste from the menu. The code from photobucket will now be pasted in your reply and the picture should appear in the post when you submit the reply.


Oh, nice job by the way!

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Mattelderca
78 NYB (gone now), two S series, three old Snow Cruisers and a Doo.

thank you

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If only I had the time to do what I want to do instead of what I have to do!

Hi valiant effort, that is one very nice and clean looking coil bracket you have. It is difficult to see in the photo, but is the coil bracket and heat sink in one piece? Can you please supply a source, P/N and price for the bracket?

Olaf

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Aspenized

Yes, it's much nicer than my bracket!
I know it's not a slant, but the HEI module is the best addition to my Mopar yet. Yes, that is the heatsink off of an orange box pictured below.

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Mattelderca

78 NYB (gone now), two S series, three old Snow Cruisers and a Doo.

Hi Olaf,

The bracket was from a mid ninetys crown vic i think. I simply slipped a piece of aluminum angle under that bracket, machined it a little and matched the holes..then placed the screws right through both pieces into the fender..quick and easy..painted the bracket to match the bare aluminum and it all looks like one piece. The angle even raises the one side a little which makes the bracket appear more square to the fender..things like not square really bother me *L...anyway if you want i can take more detailed pics...thanks..Mark

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If only I had the time to do what I want to do instead of what I have to do!

Matt,

Thanks for the tip on photobucket..worked great

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If only I had the time to do what I want to do instead of what I have to do!

I am using the coil/module/heat sink/bracket combo and the plug only has 3 wires running off the coil pigtail, are there any diagrams for this or can someone color guide me. I saw on the original that Dan tells what the leads go to but there are no markings of "A B C" in cordination with the wiring. Thanks. dean

I am running a 7 wire HEI module, with relay, msd blaster 2 coil, giant heat sink, and lean burn distributor on a megasquirt. I have been driving it this way for about two months and overall I am happy. I have noticed that when i set my base timing with the module running like it is a 4 wire that my firing is back and forth across about a 5 deg window. When I hook up the computer control I still have the same problem. I have a brand new timing chain and gears and everything seems tight. The lean burn distributor has no slop in it, although it is a "rebuilt" one from a parts store. The module is very well grounded as my 1lb heat sink is a big 1/2 inch thick aluminum plate that I drilled and tapped to run all my extra ground wires to.
So what kinds of things could be causing this?

Have you set the reluctor gap?
IIRC it is .008, use a non magnetic feeler.

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Mattelderca

78 NYB (gone now), two S series, three old Snow Cruisers and a Doo.

I'm ashamed to admit i found my problem.
it was the really cheap horrible freight timing light.
I borrowed a quality one an my timing is dead consistent.
Im adding timing light to my list of tools to not buy cheap.

Unless you are planning on the tool being a single use item or one you really don't care about, tools are one of the things you shouldn't skimp on, if possible.

My mechanic friend has a couple of these coil/module/heatsink/bracket assemblies like the one described by Blackdog sitting on his shelf (he doesn't remember what specific vehicles they came out of). I can take a picture tomorrow if need be.

I'd like to know if this sort of coil with the female connector can be used. If so, where would I get a coil-to-Mopar distributor cap wire? In my case it would need to be fairly long, because I'd mount the coil/module/heatsink/bracket assembly on the passenger-side inner fender, which is at least a couple/few feet away from the distributor cap. I have a 318 in my car, and the distributor is at the back of the engine.

That coil sounds like the circa late 90's-2000's GM Vortec truck engines -4.3L V-6, 5.0/5.7L V-8 . Alot of Euro cars (as well as some Ford waste-spark coils)use that style of ignition secondary terminal. Some Bosch spark plugs have the metal (plug wire connector) "tip" that can be removed, leaving the small stud- it's that size/style.

I'd try to find a single-long spark plug wire for one of those GM trucks - say #1 or #2 cyl, then I'd cut the plug end off & carefully remove/recrimp the boot & connector from a mopar wire- dist cap end. The GM plug wires usually use the same tiny stud style connector at the dist cap as your coil terminal.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

Thanks.

Another question:

My ballast resistor has a single wire going to the terminal on the left, and it has two wires going to the terminal on the right (one brown and one blue I think):



On the right terminal, the brown wire goes to the bulkhead connector (and then on to the ignition switch) and the blue wire goes to the positive ignition coil terminal.

The single wire on the left terminal I believe goes down to one of the field terminal tabs on the alternator, the one closest to the output stud (I am using a newer style alternator because I'm using an electronic regulator).

So the question is: should I connect the single wire on the left with the two wires on the right, thus bypassing the ballast resistor and having a full 12V available to both those circuits (i.e., ignition switch "start" and "run" circuits)?