Oil pump drive gear? Did it have oil pressure? Dang, that suhuuucks...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

well....I dont have a oil gauge . I just towed it home because it was a very busy day.(Yeah there is 6 lifts of wood ready)

Ill have a look tomorrow....my suspicions are concentrated on the Comp Cam and oil pump. The crank had 37000 miles on it and only needed a polish.(It got new bearings).

Its a real drag because it ran so well.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I can relate a little, my "New" motor is once again in pieces on the basement floor this week due to not enough oil feeding past the cam.

Just be thankful that there is enough work to keep paying you while you get the car together. It was a little "lean" around the office here not very long ago, and I'm still trying to catch up on the debt.

My cam is fixed (I think?), but I still have to put it back together and test everything some before I drive on the interstate for 7 hours.

Good luck with yours, maybe we'll both get lucky enough to still get to Indy this year.

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1980 Aspen 225 super six

Well I finally got the crank back in the Valaint motor. Yes you can just remove the crank and leave the head on and the pistons in....you just have to be careful. The crank needed to be turned down 10 and it took weeks to get new bearings. I got a Hughes timing set to go with and must say it is a nice piece. I had to get a new distributor out of the slant pile because the old one had the gear stripped. It is a 5.5R instead of the 7.5R I was using before. It seems to be a better curve(helped by a better timing chain). Just the occasional "crinkle" for ping now. Not bad for regular gas and 9.25:1 CR.

The car started right up and ran like a champ. Loads of torque throughout the whole range. At 20 MPH in 2nd gear I can light up the tires by just matting it.

I hope the ancient factory oil pump (stock 69) and 5w30 oil allow the gear to hang in....I plan on a quick look at the pump next oil change.

Is Indy over? Can I still make it? Will I race the Piggy before it gets parted?

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Well!........my son arrived at work in his "new car" today....a Tercel 4wd wagon....about an 83 I think.
This means I get the Valaint back after a 2 1/2year loan. I have driven it exactly 2 times since I got the new motor in it in October. Seems to run really well.....needs a valve adjust of course....and I see a seat mount is broken. I can shave 200lbs off the car by removing the food wrappers from the back floor.

I cant wait to race my GFs AWD Eagle Talon TSI....200hp 3200 lbs v/s the Valaint at 3000lbs and (mebbe) 200hp. I think its a good match.

Mebbe I can bring it to LV........

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Interesting.....the boys boke in the nre motor over the winter....Los Vegas lit a slant fire under my ass.

I bought a pair of new rear tires(235/60/14) and put 3 months insurance and plates on the car($166).

The car is fast now...still needs a tune and valve set... I definitely want to recurve the dist, replace the baffed seats , new carpet, and kill the annoying vibration at 60mph.


What a fun little car~!

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Sounds like plan Sandy!

I am installing the new motor/trans in the red car tomorrow. All I gotta do then is get the wiring for the trans brake figgered out and I'm there.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Sounds like your both making more progress then I am.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Im just thinkin about progress Charlie! Its cheap , easy and always works out......just thinkin.

Been driving it everywhere though,,,,,seems to like it.

The way Ive been shifting I may end up with a trans break too Dennis.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Turbo EFI


Joined: 08 Nov 2002
Posts: 1728
Location: Burton BC canada
Post subject: Ford axles in A bawdys (Fri Apr 06, 2007 5:44 pm)


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I went to town in the Valaint today (in spite of knowing better) The ancient 7.25 howled all the way in...everytime I let up on the gas. I went to the local wrecking yard to see what was.

I found 2 Ford Rangers with 10"brakes both with 3.73 gears and Trac Loc. One was a 8.8 and the other was a 7.5. I decided on the 7.5 just because the 8.8 is just too freakin big.

The owner was on a wrecker call so I went downtown for a cruise down main street ..." does that guy have a blower or is his rear axle that bad?"

I only got a mile before the thing growled to a stop at a stop sign . I put the trans in 1st ...let out the clutch and heard the dreaded WHRRRRRRRRRing noise of torque being directed no where.

An external exam spotted the stripped pinion nut on the pavement and the free hanging driveshaft.

I'LL take the truck and trailer to town tomorrow and pick up my new $200 7.5 and car.

I was pretty sure I couldn t race the thing at LV......



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Im somewhat of a bullshiter myself....but once in a while its nice to meet an expert....please continue.
http://www.arrowtipi.com/My%20Webs/index%20Valiant.htm

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Mon Apr 09, 2007 4:09 pm)

I got my car home and my new 7.5 unloaded. Nice and clean....all parts intact. Even the lugnuts are there. Most important is the emergency brake and rubber brakeliners are in great shape. Note the offset carrier,,,,yup its 3". Im not sure I like that.




I opened up the case and drained the oil. Right away I spotted a broken tooth (3rd from the top) and hammered spiders. Note the ABS timing ring on the ring gear. There was a heavy lump of cast on the far side to protect the sensor. The Trac Loc looks very light. It is from a 4x4 application with a 2.9L 5 speed. The torque is divided to both ends on a 4x4 truck dropping the load on the LOC plates. I wonder if I will thrash them immediately ....and what they cost to rebuild.




Nice 10"drums ....good ebrake cables

Note the mounts need to be moved to the bottom side of the axle.

This little piggy is going right back to the market.

I will make inquiries about the 8.8 3.73 Trac Loc....

Or mebbe Explorer 8.8 with discs.

So....there is the car on the trailer..........

it wont go forward at all.....backwards no problem....turn a wheel forward the other counter rotates.

What I needed was a simple solution




I took the driverside wheel off and lowered the spring onto a larch block and dragged the car off the trailer onto the repair ramp.....with the drum counter rotating the whole way...we chipped the block as it went over the end of the trailer. Note the wooden gas cap.

I read this in my FSM. (Facts by Sandy Marshall)
http://www.mobmms.com/view/20511-0.html
http://www.mobmms.com/view/20510-0.html
http://www.mobmms.com/view/20512-0.html

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

(Fri Apr 13, 2007 6:04 am)


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I picked up an 8.8 explorer 3.55 axle in Spokane yesterday. Yes it has discs.

I also got a short side axle.
Look for a little diatribe on the install in the next few weeks.
This weekend Ill dismantle the thing to ready it for narrowing.

(Sat Apr 14, 2007 2:14 pm)


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I spent a couple of hours readying the 8.8 for the machine shop. First I bolted on a wheel and tire to find out if things were headed complicated. They fit.....just. There is a very close seal(finger width) between the wheel and the splash pan.



Then I stripped everything off the axle.

I pulled the c clips ...then the axles....off come the backing plate with the emergecy brakes ....I took all the brake lines in one piece.

By measuring axles and the axle tubes I can see I need to narrow 2 5/8" from the long side tube.





http://www.mobmms.com/view/20678-0.html
http://www.mobmms.com/view/20680-0.html

(Mon Apr 16, 2007 4:28 pm)


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The old 7.25 axle is in the foreground with the spiffy low mileage disc brake axle in the background. I just have to cut 2 5/8" out of the long side and weld it back together.

http://www.mobmms.com/view/20708-0.html

note the section on the long side to be removed.

The mounts also need to be relocated to compensate for pinion angle. The Explorer driver side mount is in the correct location but is clocked very wrong for Ujoint life.

The front spring mounts need to be drilled out to 9/16 . They are inverted to lower the car 2".

http://www.mobmms.com/view/20707-0.html

I will make new shackles from truck shackles which are longer, wider and a little thicker than Abody shackles. I will redrill them from 3/8 to 1/2" add grade 8 bolts welded to the shackles on one side. The holes will be drilled 1" closer than stock to lower the car a little more...and to balance the pinion angle.


(Sun Apr 22, 2007 12:01 pm)


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I finally got an hour and a half and a company vehicle together at the same time. ...off to town!

.....the machine shop is so busy they cant look at anything less than" life and death". ....seeing how the Valaint is technically "sport" it goes to the back of their list. So I brought it all home again.

.....spent a couple of hours upgrading spring hangers and shackles. I used Chev 3/4 4x4 front spring shackles(originally 7/16 bolts) and drilled the holes out to 1/2". The holes are 1/2" farther apart on the Chev than Abody. I made a new hole 1" closer together lowering the car 1/2"on the shackle end. Yes the spring, shackles and spring mount all clear each other throughout travel. All new grade 8 1/2" bolts and Nylocs should suffice. When I get it where I want it I will weld the bolt heads to the shackles.....just enough to stake them.

The truck shackles are the same thickness but wider than A body shackles. the difference is quite noticable. When Alex put the new springs in the car a couple of years ago I was surprised at the cheezy shackles we were sent.

The JC Whitney springs Alex installed had a 9/16 bore on the big end(front). Unknowingly he reinstalled the 3/8 bolts the car came with. This allowed the spring to touch the floor on violent acceleration. Remember I have reversed the front spring mounts on my car. The mount must be removed to change the spring or bolt.
Today I drilled out the spring mounts to 9/16. Ill be using new grade 8 9/16 x4 and nylocs. The springs are ready for a new diff .


Here is a little sidebar on one way to upgrade shackles.

My son had installed new springs 2 years ago. They work well but son installed the front spring eye using stock 3/8 bolts in a 9/16 spring bushing. The rear shackles were so puny.....

I installed 9/16 bolts in the front eye after drilling out the front spring mount. Note my mount is reversed to lower the car.

I made new rear shackles using 3/4t 4x4 front shackles....much bigger.

I redrilled the shackles to 1/2" (same size as poly bushings ) and installed 1/2 x 4" Bolts with nyloc nuts. If you use this size and tighten till the bolt is flush with the nut you get perfect clamp on the bushings.

http://www.mobmms.com/images/owner-download/21902.jpg

(Sat May 12, 2007 8:26 am)


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I picked up the housing from the machine shop yesterday. As soon as I got home I tossed the housing on top of the springs and had a look.....everything looks good.

I had a couple of hours before 9 this morning to reassemble the 8.8 and install it in the car. The stock Valaint brake hose and line T bolt right on the Explorer axle.

A set of Ubolts and spring plates for a 8 3/4 or 81/4 will bolt everthing in the stock location.

The machine shop shortened the housing by putting it in a driveline lathe (for huge logging equipment) and treating the whole operation as a driveshaft shortening.....the axle tubes being the shaft. It gets welded in the lathe. My axle tube is cut and welded in the middle. They say the whole thing is "pretty straight".....meaning "very straight" in my world.

weight of 7 1/4 axle w/ 10" drums removed from car 160 lbs
weight of similarly equipped 8.8 w/discs 185 lbs

The Explorer rear (narrowed ) is less than 1" narrower than the 7.25

http://www.mobmms.com/view/22185-0.html

(Sat Jun 16, 2007 6:23 am)


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I got the bill for narrowing the housing and moving spring pads, removing sway bar mounts today.......2.5 hours $175

Brake lines, pads etc will be in Tuesday but Im not sure when I will have time to cross the line (border) and get them.

I still need to find some reasonably priced calipers. Core charge is $100/pair most places...

Turns out the driveshaft/ ujoint stuff can come from the slant pile.....my car may get back its original driveshaft after a 7 year hiatus.

(Tue Jun 26, 2007 4:20 pm)


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I got my calipers today (used 43000 km) and picked up my pads , hoses, and mounting hardware(new) from Spokane on Saturday. I now have everything I need except for a conversion u joint and 6 hours to get the freeking thing together.

Lemme see ....Alberta tomorrow to friday(again) ....reality tv show in Alberta (again) next Monday to Friday.....Leave for the East Coast the following Monday....back 10 days later....straight into 5 days on the lake in the sailboat(holiday with the new bride).....


Im thinkin I can get it running .....um....lesse....August

(Sat Aug 18, 2007 8:56 am)


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The conversion Ujoint finally got here Friday. They sent the wrong Ujoint in the right box TWICE!

Fired the driveshaft in the car at 7 am this morning and went for a lil test drive.....


The car stops really well....good front/ rear bias with the stock 74 disc brake master and combination valve.

The 3.55 gears seem perfect. The car leaves really hard ....I get about 30ft of rubber on both tires in 1st and a bark on the 1-2 shift.

My 14"Ansen sprints just clear the calipers.



Sat Aug 18, 2007 3:20 pm)


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Got far enough ahead of things this afternoon to take the Valaint for more than a cursory shakedown cruise........

Why not Top End the car with the new gears and see if the driveshaft vibration thing is gone? ("new" driveshaft is the stock 65 )

I took the car through all 5 gears hard and wound it up to the top end of 5th (prolly over 100....no speedo).....no vibration.


I noticed a drop in power on the return pass.........and some noise.

Dropped it into neutral ....key off....coasted home.

I think I just wiped ANOTHER oil pump gear.

Hopefully the crank is ok.....but I have to question the Comp cam.

I think I let it cool down and do some checking.....

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

(Sun Aug 19, 2007 7:45 am)


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Well........I got the dist out and did a little looking and feeling around. It feels like the cam gear is wiped out on one side.

Interestingly the nylon dist gear is a little wonky as well.

I havn t pulled the pump and prolly wont till I pull the motor this winter.

The pump was a 100 000 mile OEM that had a very nice gear when I put it in. I figure this was a cam problem......

I didn t really like the Comp 264 cam anyway....it felt like lots was being left on the table.....which is pitifull on a 2 barrel car

Sun Aug 19, 2007 5:07 pm)


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Well I think in this case its the Comp cam.....and high rpm shifts. I had a 100000 mile OEM pump with a beauty gear on it.....not HV...

I never wiped out a cam in any way till this year. I killed a Comp cam in my work truck this spring as well.( 3 lobes)

This motor has about 1500 miles on it DI....and its already wiped out 2 pump gears , a crank and a cam. Yood think I had it on a bottle...

Thanks for the cam offer Dennis...Im not sure .510 lift(.340 at cam) is doable with low CR(9.25) and my old chev valve springs. I might preload a rocker 47 thou and see......(currently .440 lift......293 at cam)

The good news was the car top ended like never before.....

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Time for a new plan....


The pump gear and cam are toast....the crank is OK but needs new bearings.

I think my Hughes timing set pulls the cam forward....

I have a new Erson cam 280/270 .465 kift and new bearings are at the UPS store.

I have the cam button already to weld up.

I have an Offy manifold on its way(thanks Reed). I will add a Rochester 220 TB to the manifold using a cheapo adapter( $15 Turbo City)

I will use a 7 pin HEI with a Lean Burn dist and a 250 Chev 6 HEI coil......Already have the coil, TB . module, and adapter.

I already have a harness and sensors( GM)

The plan is to get the short block together over the winter.....Ill prolly deck the block to get the CR up to match the cam...First a lot of CC and measure.....

Part 2 is to order up a MS230C from Matt....I think I can solder

The ugly part is a fuel system return line. I will buy a pump or mebbe figure a way to put one of my surplus GM intank pumps in the Valaints tank.......or a madeup tank/fuel cell at least 12 gallons.

The TB has a fuel reg built in....dont need a rail because its TBI and I can use the stock GM braided hoses.

I think I can FI it for less than $500 ....most of that will be the MS and pump.

Think I can run 10.5 CR on 93 with that cam ?

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....