First thing is that on my 727 - one of the cooler lines has been bent and pinched almost closed. What options do I have to take care of this?
Can I use a rubber line of some sort or?

Where can I find out about the process to switch the pig in the rear end?
The rebuilt one that is under the van now is a 3.55.
I have to check the one that was switched and see what it is - it has no tag on it so I have to do the rotate thing and find where that process is too. I am thinking that the 3.55 is gonna be fun for a little while, but I am hoping the old gear set is more of a highway speed set.

Thanks,
Dan

Yanking the pig isn't bad at all. Pull the rear wheels, take the drums off, then there are five nuts behind the axles, remove them, then pop the axles out a few inches, once you get them out then you can remove the drive shaft, then all you have left to take off is the 12 nuts that holds the pig to the housing and it'll pop out. Beware though, a lot of fluid is gonna come out when you take the pig out.

_________________
70 Dart, 360, 727

You can use a rubber line but you need to be sure to get one that is made to withstand the temperature and pressure it will encounter. Ftermarket tranny coolers typically use rubber hose to hook up to the factory lines; if you could find some of that it should work fine. Be sure to put a dogleg flare in the end of the original lines where you cut them or they are likely to pop off underpressure and dump all your fluid in the street.

_________________
David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

You can cut the damaged part out of the metal line with a tubing cutter (not with a saw), and use rubber hose to join the two parts of the line. Be very careful what rubber hose you use, though. Ordinary fuel line hose will not stand up to the heat and pressure. There's a special rubber hose spec for hydraulic lines, but finding it "by the foot" will be a special trick. I've used my favourite SAE J30R9 fuel injection hose (not 30R7!) for this task and had it work and last fine.

Me, I'm thinking of ditching the metal cooling lines altogether in my '62. They're a constant hassle, whether it's getting in the way of a starter change or exhaust reroute, or vibrating and resonating and making bizarre sounds, or just sittin' there lookin' ugly under the hood, they're always making trouble of one kind or another. My thought is to visit a shop that makes up flexible hydraulic lines for industrial-commercial applications and have some special lines made up. I'd come off the transmission, run along the frame rails up to the front of the car, then zag neatly over to the trans cooler fittings on the radiator. The lines would be almost completely out of the engine bay, and nowhere near the exhaust.
Factory service manual. Or: Drain lube, drop rear U-joint or remove driveshaft, pull LH and RH axle shafts far enough out that they disengage from the diff, remove nuts holding centre chunk to housing, position floor jack under centre chunk and wheel it out!

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks guys!
I knew there was some kind of rubber hose that would work!

Is this pinched condition going to fry the tranny if I drive it into town to get the new stuff? Or should I get it fixed before I do any driving?

I don't really know if the cooling has to be moving or not?
DO you know what I mean here?

Thanks again - and I thought the pig change was something as easy as that - for some reason I had that process in the old gray matter some place but wanted to be sure!

Now I really need to get the timing and the carb all adjusted.
Wish skidderdriver was available!
Later gang and thanks, thanks, thanks!
Dan

Don't take the chance; fix the line ASAP without driving.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Actually, transmission cooler return line should be available by the foot without too much problem... We've got spools of Gates hose at work (5/16 & 3/8), I'll check the p/n when I go in tomorrow. Also though, if it's just a kink in the line, you could probably just cut the line and use a compression fitting to splice it back together.

Thats what I recommend. Rent a flaring tool and go spend $5 on the right size pipe and fittings. When I was repairing my 84 Ford the guy I had welding the frame rail burned a hole through one of the metal brake lines. I patched using the above described method.

On brake lines, yes, re-flaring is absolutley neccesary. On cooler lines though, the compression fittings that you just slide over and tighten down are more than sufficient, and there's no flaring or special tools (aside from a tubing cutter) needed.

I bought a foot of transmission cooler line hose from autozone last week. Have it installed on the car with a couple of hose clamps and it works perfectly.

_________________
82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

I had a piece of new fuel line handy, so that's what I am using for the nxst few days! That and a couple of hose clamps and it's working for now.

Wish the rest of the BS was this easy!

My kickdown linkage is a no go.
It is the same one that is in the Chiltons book on page 145 of the Dodge section if I remember correctly. Instead of pushing down to engage the kickdown, it pulls up. I can't find a way to get it to go the other way.

I don't have a shop and right now no way to make something as far as I can see. Will be out staring at it and trying to come up with something today.

Any suggestions would be very appreciated!
Later,
Dan

Can I drive this thing at all without worrying about destroying the newly rebuilt tranny?

In case anyone was interested, I grabbed the part #'s for that tranny cooler hose.

5/16 27060
3/8 27061
1/2 27066

These are Gates numbers. Most places should sell it by the foot.