I installed my rebuilt Aluminum Block /6 in my 63 Valiant convertible this weekend, hooked it all up, and got it running. I need to move the distributor one tooth and adjust the valves. I'll have to figure out how to send pictures. The block was not bored. I honed the walls and installed standard rings, put new rod and crank bearings in, and new gaskets. I used a 1980 cylinder head, reconditioned by my local machine shop. I used the existing oil pump, crank, rods, and pistons. I had to bend the exhaust to fit the taller motor (original was a 170) and had to adjust the kick-down rod to reach the now taller carb. Other than those items, the swap was routine. It runs good, doesn't smoke or knock. I'm a happy camper and I want to thank everyone here who have answered my questions and provided a ton of good information.

great job

Well done, another Al. SL6 lives!
You may want to retorque the head with the engine warm before doing the final valve adjust.

Watch the cooling system, use distilled water and a good antifreeze.

Run the negitive ground cable from the battery and directly to the starter motor, don't pull the current through the block.
DD

Congrats, Pat! Hope you enjoy the easy steering and good handling along with the cool factor.

I'm planning on putting together an Al engine myself sometime soon.

Good tip on the grounding, Doug.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks all.

Dr. D - I will take your advice on the negative cable. I'll move it from the front left side of the block (stock position) to the starter mounting bolt.

I re-checked the head bolt torque on the cold engine yesterday and did find three bolts that needed about 10 more lb. ft. to get back to 65 lb. ft. I'm afraid to tighten them too much but all 3 are at least at 62 now. I did use the correct longer head bolts and the copper gasket from Kanter.