First things first, I'm an idiot, that much is clear.

After rebuilding my /6 last summer I had a few water pump issues and through the process of trouble shooting it must have diluted my antifreeze to the point of being ineffective.

After sitting outside all winter (with temp dips to -20c) I now have what appears to be a cracked block. When I started it up water was weeping along a crack that runs about 8 inches long along a casting seam about 4 inches beneath the exhaust manifold. I'll post a pic later.

Here's my question. Can it be welded?

Another question, should it be welded? If it's cracked there I may have cracks elsewhere. would I just be wasting my time?

Cheers.

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1964 Canadian Valiant Convertible.

Drill a small hole at each end of the crack and cover the whole crack with JB Weld.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

OMFG! Really?? That'll do it?? You can't imagine the smile on my face right now. Thanks for the info.

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1964 Canadian Valiant Convertible.

It might hold...

Ummm...no. It won't reliably hold. He's more or less joking. Putting your money into a cracked block is a big gamble. Find another block.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well what the hell... if it doesn't hold, it doesn't hold. I just rebuilt the damned thing . I've got to give it a go doncha think?

Here are some pics of the damage.

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1964 Canadian Valiant Convertible.

Ouch. Yep, ya done cracked the block. Looks like oil coming out, not "just" coolant. Have you drained the oil to see what it looks like?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

No, I am not joking. Clean the block off well and it will probably hold. Add a bottle of Bar's Leak for a little extra insurance.

I ran a 383 block that was cracked for almost 2 years on Bar's Leak alone.

If it doesn't work, at least you're not out much.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Not yet, what shoud I be looking for... oil I suppose.

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1964 Canadian Valiant Convertible.

You /do/ want to find oil; you /don't/ want to find water.

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

I have used this
http://www.barsproducts.com/product.cfm?id=41
in my wifes 4cyl eek, about 35-40k so far and still holding

warning-you must follow the instructions EXACTLY or it will cause you more
problems.

I know it is not a "correct fix", but it worked for me

hope it helps, it really sucks being a fresh rebuild and all

I once saw the water jackets of a 318 block "saved" with a mig welder,
looked grungy as it gets, but the kid was still driving the car 3 yrs later.

Welding it was what I was thinking too... it's just that I'm not sure there isn't more damage yet to contend with. I'm going to drain the oil and if there's no water in it I'll try the JB Weld... if that holds and all is well then I'll see about running a bead along the crack.

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1964 Canadian Valiant Convertible.

I think brazing would be better than welding in this case.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Another thing you might try is one of the "Fix A Cracked Block In A Can"
Chemicals, available at Carquest or NAPA either before or after the JB Weld. It may be similar to the Bars link above. You definitely have to follow the instructions to a T- but I had a Toyota Pickup with a cracked
block. I was very skeptical, but it totally worked and I put many many miles on after that.

drill holes, use an angle grinder to cut a 'V' that follows the crack. once that's done, us acetylene/O2 torch to braze along with brass brazing rod....i have heard of people using nickel rod, but i don't have personal experience with it. i have used and seen brass used to do this sort of repair....now, if you have water in the oil, it might not be worth going thru all the work....i would also want to take the carb/intake/exhaust off, just for access reasons, not to mention having a torch that close to the gas!!

sb