What size are your anti-roll bars?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Thanks again for the thoughts and comments. Joshua, your comments aobut the rear sway bar make sense, but take into consideration the way the front suspension is built. I have solid strut brace bushings, 340 torsion bars, tublar upper control arms with hiem joints, a 1.25" front sway bar and Edlebrock AIS front shocks. This front end is really stiff, and grips tenaciously. Does the trouble come from the the fact that the rear sway bar tries to lift one rear wheel in a hard curve? I suppose I could try it, what is to lose.

But I still suspect part of the problem is the fact that it sits up too high in the rear. So how about this, Bigger tires in the rear, lowering blocks to get the rear in line with the front eye, and then perhaps take off the rear sway bar if that still seems needed. I am still eager to discuss this rear geometry issue more, especially how the symetrical nature of my springs effects the thinking on rear axle stear, and the relationship of the front and rear hangers for a symetrical leaf.

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I didn't know the rear end was up in the air. That will increase weight transfer in the back and exacerbate the oversteer problem. Get the rear end down first, but I'll still bet $1 you'll need to disconnect the rear sway bar. Most A bodies with greater front roll stiffness than your car only need a 1/2" or 5/8" rear sway bar to achieve neutral handling.

.870" 340 torsion bars are not that stiff. Wheel rate is only about 110 lbs/in. For reference .830 bars are 91 lbs/in. I drove my race car around on the street with 1.04" torsion bars (twice the rate of your's at 224 lbs/in) and it rode fine. I have .990" bars (184 lbs/in) in my Swinger that I need to get running and driving and 1.140" (324 lbs/in) if I want to get crazy.

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Joshua

My Torsion bars are .90 or what ever is close to that in the .90's. I think maybe .94 rings a bell. Do they make one that size? Once again, that was Lou's suggestion. I would not have known what to get. I just knew the old wornout /6 bars were pretty gone. They were cranked way up to work at all. Thanks for the advice. I will try to get the rear axle level with the front eyelet, and go from there. Maybe get a pair of 215'-55s on the back.

Up until two years ago, this car was a daily driver. When I started it's restoration, it turned into a hot rod of sorts. It seems to be moving more and more in that direction as time passes, and I get less attatched to the "Authentic Mopar Restoration concept.
Sam

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Well, .870" is the 340 A body torsion bar. The .920" bar is a good 24.5% stiffer.

My '72 Dart is a toy. The K-member is a spool type and has been reinforced. The steering box is from Firm Feel as are the longer pitman and idler arms. I have the .990" torsion bars, Carerra shocks, 1" front sway bar (it's smaller as the arms are shorter than the earlier sway bar) and Mopar Performance circle track rear springs with poly bushings. I have 11.75" rotors and Wilwood calipers to install and hide behind the 17x8" Mustang Mach 1 wheels. Now if only it ran.

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Joshua

Jashua, Tell me about the Firm Feel Pittman and idler. I have not been happy with the ilder arm available these days. They are weaker than the OEM parts were. The quality of the new Dana parts makes me want to rebuild the old stuff. How did you handle the Mustang wheels with the deeper back space? Did you put spacers on, and were you worried about the integrity of that set up? Also, are you concerned with the ride qulaity with 17" wheels. I have been tempted to spring for 17" wheels on this car, but the ride is pretty harsh now. Yes, the torsion bars are the .920's. Have you driven yours yet with your suspension? Your comment "Now if only it ran" leaves open the possibility that it used to. If you have driven it, what can you tell me about it's behavior? What do you prdict about it's behavior?

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I know it's kind of late in the discussion, but I haven't noticed this suggestion being made yet.

Have you thought about de-arching the springs? That's what they did on the Green Brick.

If it has been mentioned, I apologize. I read this thread last night just now thought about de-arching.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car