I can't figure out this search thing at all. All I get is no listing. Can someone link me to the build specs for this engine. I'd like to price this out and get the engine off the the builder.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Big D's post a long time back for his original Slantzilla is:

1. '68 block bored +.060"
2. Forged crank cut .010-.010
3. 7" long 198ci rods. I got them from Doug Dutra and had them rebuilt by J&M in Nebraska.
4. Racer Brown cam 268*&.450" lift intake,268*&.448" lift exhaust.
5. ARP rod bolts for a 340. Also ARP head bolt washers.
6. Hyperteutectic 2.2 turbo pistons. They are either Sealed Power or K-B I think they were for a Turbo-II motor. .5mm oversize equals a =.060" overbore. Compression is supposed to be about 10.8 to 1.
7. Windage tray from J&M.
8. Mopar Performance double roller timing chain. I degreed the cam and found the chain to be marked a tooth retarded.
9. Sealed Power lifters, I used slant lifters but maybe 340 ones can be had cheaper, maybe not.
10. Fel-Pro gaskets
11. Sealed Power standard oil pump. I don't like the idea of having alot of oil pressure. This one is carrying 50psi at idle, to me that is almost too much. I know it will come down as everything gets comfy.
12. Mopar Performance electronic distributor triggering a MP MSD6-AL. I don't know if the MSD is a whole lot better than Mopar electronic, but I wanted the option of the rev-limiter and shift light.
13. Federal-Mogul rings. One of the advantages to the 2.2 piston is that you get a narrow ring. Just make sure to open up the top ring gap a few thousandth's for the hyperteutectic pistons.
14. We floated the pins in the rod. Instead of bushing the rod, Blaine had them coated with a super-slick coating. This step isn't really necessary, we just did it because we weren't sure what the final deck height was going to be. If the pistons had to be removed we didn't want to chance wearing out the end of the rod. Deck height was -.028".
That about wraps up the shortblock.
Head
1. I used an '81 head, just because that was what I had laying around. Sent it out to J&M.
2. They tanked it, checked it for straightness, (it was ok), installed new bronze guides, and did a 5 angle valve job. They also reduced the seat angle to 30*. Mike said that this made an impressive gain on the flow bench at low and mid flow.
3. Installed small block Ford valves. They are almost a drop-in as the guides are the same, and so is the stem length. I believe the intakes were drop-in, 1.75", but they had to cut down the exhaust. 1.60" (I'm not real sure about the sizes, but they should be close) One reason we went to +.060" overbore was that Mike thought the wall was too close to the valve at stock bore and hurt flow.
4. Ported, flowed and CC'd the head.
5. Installed new 340 springs, retainers and keepers.
6. I lucked out and Bill at 'The Chicago Connection" had one of the discontinued late style chrome valve covers on the shelf. ($40)
7. I am still using my trusty old MP 6X1 header. I just like that thing. It fits really nice, and drops in from the top.
8. For now, I have my Super Six intake and carb on, but I will be putting on my Offy and 600 Holley shortly.
That is pretty much it guys. It is in my '76 Duster. I also stuck in a Liberty converter that should stall around 2200 rpm. I'm using a 904, and I have 3.91 gears in the 83/4 rearend. I also use Cal-Trac bars for consistency on the starting line.



Not sure if Big D will reveal his SoS modifications.


-D.Idiot

will it run on premium pump or is race gas required? my thoughts are race gas with 10.8:1 compression. how is performance? was it dyno'ed?

zedpapa

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1970 dodge dart w/225 /6 bored .040" over, holley 390cfm w/vac. sec., compcams 252s, clifford shorty headers w/2.5" exhaust w/flowmaster, f-body 11" front discs, aluminum A-833OD, 8 1/4 w/3.21 SG
soon to have 5 gears!!!