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 Post subject: Re-drill Re-visited
PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 5:11 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Ooltewah, Tennessee
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There seem to be a lot of 100mm wheels out there to choose from. And a lot of them come in some pretty big diameters, so I'd expect that size, in and of itself, is safe enough.

Some suggested re-drilling an SBP to 4.5" was pushing it. It occurred to me that re-drilling to 100mm was actually going the opposite way, so should NOT be pushing it. Anyone tried or thought about it?

Hm, I can just see my '65 Valiant with 20" wheels and 225/9R20 tires. :shock:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 5:43 pm 
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From what I hear the backspacing on the 100mm rims tends to be unsuitable for the SBP cars.

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Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 7:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:09 pm
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Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Car Model: 1962 Plymouth Valiant Signet
I considered a lot of these unconventional options but when it got down to it I realized that I will be riding in this car, depending on it to perform properly and not wound or kill me. Even more important, my wife and other loved ones will be passengers. I decied to stick with the tried and true which means using factory components either in sbp or making the swap to lbp factory components or at a minmum, quality aftermarket replacements. I don't want to be drilling and/or cutting parts to work in a way for which they have not been designed or engineered. I looked at the scarebird stuff and concluded that it is well named! But, that's just me - you do what you want.

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'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
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Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 9:10 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
I don't know about redrilling the front, but in the rear you'd have a real problem. On the 7 1/4 rear there is a hole in the flange that allows access to the bearing retainer nuts. That prevents you from spacing the new holes midway between the existing holes on a similar bolt circle.
Backspacing is a whole 'nother issue. I found that even steel Jeep rims in 15X7 had too much backspace for the late-A disk setup up front. Don't know about the early-A's. You might be able to use spacers, but then you'll have to watch stud length, too.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 9:18 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Quote:
From what I hear the backspacing on the 100mm rims tends to be unsuitable for the SBP cars.
Hm, I was wondering about that. So far I don't seem to be able to find backspacing for 100mm wheels.

Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 9:27 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Quote:
I decied to stick with the tried and true which means using factory components either in sbp or making the swap to lbp factory components or at a minmum, quality aftermarket replacements. I don't want to be drilling and/or cutting parts to work in a way for which they have not been designed or engineered.
It occurred to me that if they can redrill these things and oval or cross track them I'm not going to kill anybody driving down the road. And believe me, I would NOT be drilling on them. I'd leave that to people who do it for a living.

And of course there's the other thing. If the Enterprise can run at 150% system capacity when push comes to shove, how much more a '65 Valiant. :wink:

Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 9:46 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Rolla, MO
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The "if it works on an oval track, it'll work on the highway" thought pattern is very dangerous. The factor of safety engineered in to a race car is often much lower than that needed on a street car. Race cars are designed with much more frequent maintanence in mind, sometimes to the point that some systems are designed to just barely last until the end of the race, then need to be rebuilt. (That's why you never see pro race teams without several back up engines.)

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 8:43 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
Re: Backspacing/Offset specs
Most of the wheel sellers do list backspace or offset somewhere in the specs. Discount tire uses this format:

20X7.5 5-100 35C (Since someone mentioned 20's.)
20" Diameter, 7.5" wide, 5 lugs on a 100mm bolt circle, 35mm positive offset, C for Chrome.

I'm running 15X7 5-4.5" 13W's on my '64 Valiant. 13mm Offset seems to work well front and rear with 205-60R15 tires.

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 9:11 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Ooltewah, Tennessee
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Quote:
The "if it works on an oval track, it'll work on the highway" thought pattern is very dangerous.
Excellent point. It would have been more useful if I had referred to their use in off roading. My machinist has done redrilling for local and non-local off roading for several years and has had no failures. In fact they prefer it that way. :wink:

Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 9:42 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Ooltewah, Tennessee
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Quote:
Re: Backspacing/Offset specs
Most of the wheel sellers do list backspace or offset somewhere in the specs. Discount tire uses this format:

20X7.5 5-100 35C (Since someone mentioned 20's.)
20" Diameter, 7.5" wide, 5 lugs on a 100mm bolt circle, 35mm positive offset, C for Chrome.


I spent some time on it last might. There seems to be a lot of variation - all over the place, so to speak. I'd think with not much effort one could find what he wanted.

I suppose my reference to 20" is sort of missing the point. One couldn't rely on 40 year old technology having the equivalent materials and engineering they put into such things currently.
Quote:
I'm running 15X7 5-4.5" 13W's on my '64 Valiant. 13mm Offset seems to work well front and rear with 205-60R15 tires.
Still looking at bolt pattern issues, I haven't gotten down to studying any of the clearance issues. I do know that even a 185 is a little big for the spare compartment in my '65 Valiant trunk. :wink:

How do those 60R15's look on the car? I've thought along those same lines. I never quite liked the factory look. Itty bitty tires and wheels.

Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 10:49 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
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Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
Quote:
How do those 60R15's look on the car?
A lot like this:

Image

Image

Image

Pardon the dirt and mud. It finally rained here.

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 11:09 am 
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Slantvaliant, can you tell us about those white spoke wheels? Are they small or big bolt? Where'd you get 'em?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 1:30 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
I got them through the local Discount Tire store.

Unique Wheel, Inc.
Series 21 White 8-Spoke Steel Wheel RWD
PN 21-5712P, New PN 1526352564B
15X7, 5 on 4.5", +13mm offset, 4 1/2" backspace.
The (1) seems to indicate RANGER, BRONCO ll, AEROSTAR, AMC JEEP, COMANCHE, CHEROKEE
$32 each.

http://www.uniquewheel.com/catalog_pg4.html

The normal search at the Discount Tire website only shows the version with minus 6mm offset, but the positive 13mm offset version I'm using is available, when they look on the computer at the store. It took a few days to get them in.
They didn't come with centers, but the car buff at the store gave me some leftover American Racing centers when I asked.

Image

They appear to be well made, and strong enough for what I do. The 15's should give me room for 11 3/4" rotors one day. I think the white spokes and the red and blue stripes go well with my white car with a red interior. And if you look closely, you can imagine a Valiant "V" between the spokes ... :D

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 2:10 pm 
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Location: Oxford, Georgia
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I once attempted to run a set of 16"x7" wheels with a high offset (I think it may have been around 25-30 mm) on my Dart. It seemed to fit with the car on jackstands, but when I lowered it to the ground, the upper ball joint dug into the rim and rendered the car undrivable. However, with 20" wheels, you could probably run a high offset and have the ball joint tuck inside the wheel, clearing everything.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 2:14 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
Posts: 2479
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
I looked at some Jeep 15X7 steel rims. Lots of offset. They didn't clear the '74 Duster UCA's up front. I didn't and don't want to use spacers, so I kept looking.

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO


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