Ok. I have a 64 Valiant. I will be replacing the UCA's with tubulars ones from Firm feel. ball joints and bushings installed so no big deal there. steering box will get firm feels fast ratio 16:1 box. no big deal there. but LCA's will get new bushings and ball joints. I have access to press and a FSM that details the process. however I'm sure alot of you guys have done this and I want to know any problems you guys encountered. Below is a list of everything to be replaced in the front end. ( if it aint on the list I replaced it already.)
UCA's
UCA bushings
Upper Ball joints
LCA bushings
Lower ball joints
Strut rods
strut rod bushings
torsion bars& seals
steering box

If you ran into anyproblems changing any of these parts please let me know.

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7

Assorted thoughts, from my go-round with a '64 Valiant:

Getting the shells out of the LCA's was a pain.
Torsion bar seals - check for and remove sharp edges at the end of the bar, and use grease when you stretch the seal over.
Torsion bars - put the bars in with the numbers to the rear, so someone will have chance of reading them later.
How are your shocks? Tie rods? Those in my '64 were shot.
Have you talked to alignment shops to find one that can and will actually align it afterwards? Some have no idea how because it's not in the computer, some insist our cars cannot be adjusted for caster and camber, and a few know what they are doing.
What kind of brakes do you have?

Your project won't be too bad, and it'll be worth it.
Are you upgrading the brakes?

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Tie rods have been done. shocks are KYB gas adjust. (as I said if it aint listed I've done it)(pitman and idler too) I am running 9" drums. (will upgrade when a more powerfull slant forces me to.) I have an alignment shop that only does older cars ( i.e. hot rods and muscle cars. they've done my car when I changed tie rods and steering arms) I'll take your advice on the torsion seals.
should I slide them on backward from the end or forward from the front? (did that make sense?) The LCA's is what I'm worried about. the bushings I have don't have shells. will they need the old ones? do they not need shells? do I need new shells? this is the stuff a 42 year old FSM doesn't tell you. I know the process is laid out in the FSM for getting the shells out. but any nifty tricks would be greatly appreciated.

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7

The last time I messed about with a A-body front suspension I found a very valuable tool to remove the torsion bars was two blocks of wood which clamp tightly around the bar giving you something to whack with a hammer that won't damage the bar.

The ends of the bar are the same size, but I suspect that it would easier to slide it on from the front.

Do you have the special upper control arm socket? If not, I have one I would loan to you if you PROMISE to return it.

Lower ball joints are a breeze to replace. They unbolt from the knuckle and then you just need a pickle fork to whack them off.

Same deal with the steering box. It is a bolt on item, except for the pittman arm.

upper control arm is getting changed to a tubular FFI model. ball joints and bushings installed

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7

if your new bushings did not come with the outer shell, you need to salvage that part from your old set. i have used a propane torch and a press to get mine out, its a smelly smoky mess though.

sb

your shell- less bushing will need the old shell -- since you have press access --- remove the pin(bolt for the lca) now see if you can dig the rubber out-- sometimes it will fall out -sometimes not. reverse press your new bushings & pin -- (press the pin in the new bushing 1st)--- Keep us posted

Put them over the front, as if feeding the bar through a rubber funnel.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

VDART- are you saying I should leave the old shells in the control arm and press the pin and bushing into the shell?

I appreciate all the advise guys.

front of the car is in the air. wheels are off, shocks are unbolted and torsion bars are unloaded. Hard to get alot done when you got two hours between getting off work and then going to band practice. not to mention your neighbor just bought a 67 mustang and wants you to drive it around and tell her if the brakes feel alright. tommorow should see alot of progress tearing the front end apart

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7

I found this was very easy to do with a utility knife. Don't burn it out--just slice it in a few places and just pry it off. I got both out in less than 5 mins.

Now, how about removing the old LCA bushing shells? I've been struggling with this to no avail. the FSM calls for a nice big ass tap, which is $75. I have heard that the key is to chisel, but I'd like more info.

I tried to weld the washers ala mopar action, to no avail.

MJ

I have the big *** tap-- but it will ruin your shell --- if you remove it-- for a poly type bushing-- it leaves a nice threaded spiral in it.

I don't need the shell--I'm using rubber. Otherwise I'd be ready! I could just slap the polys in there and I'd be golden.

No chance you'd *loan* that sucker to me?

MJ

after 8 hours I am pleased to report the front end is 100% disassembled.
LCA's were disassembled on the bench. struts removed, ball joints, and torsion adjusters. after a good cleaning tommorow I'll get to work on the bushings. I also have a new torsion bar removal method for everyone.
this only works if you are taking everything apart. get every thing unbolted so that you only have LCA's, struts and torsion bars left. then get a 6' long wrecking bar with a 2 1/2" wide flat spot on the end. wedge between LCA and K member and apply gentle pressure. VIOLA. I bought my WRecking bar a year ago at a garage sale for $5. this is the first time I got to use it. worth every penny. I also spent alittle time cleaning the 42 years of crud off the kmember. it was inches thick in some places.
well I still got alot of work to do but I'll keep ya posted.

J

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7

a little less productive today. Tubular A arms intsalled. steering box bolted in. cleaned LCA's real good and pressed out the pin and bushings. painted the spindles. still need to clean and paint backing plates and press in the lower bushings. If I can get everything ready to bolt in saturday I'll be in business

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7

I know it's kind of late, but are you going to reinforce the LCA's?



Not a big difference, but it doesn't hurt.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO