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 Post subject: Help! Motor Mounts Bad?
PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2001 1:30 pm 
Hi All,

In January I bought a 63 Dart /6 with 119,000 miles on the odo.

The engine has always "shuddered" under medium to heavy acceleration. I thought it was because it was old and needed a rebuild. Most of the shuddering went away after I put on a rebuilt carb and did a valve adjustment and tuneup.

But it still wasn't perfect.

From a dead stop if I floored it, I would feel a heavy knocking sound seeming to come from the middle-rear floor of the car.

A few weeks ago, I had new rear springs put in the car and they raised the back end up higher than it was before.

The shuddering completely went away. (But the "heavy floor knocking" under hard acceleration remained).

Then on a long drive, the shuddering came back worse than ever. And only on acceleration from slow speeds like before.

I'm convinced that it's the motor mounts, because I experimented by putting my foot on the brake and giving the engine gas and the accelerator pedal "stuck" in the "on" position (i.e. the engine was turning against the rod linkage).

I checked the rear u-joint (needed some grease) and the front pot-joint (seemed OK).

Is this a logical conclusion? I'm wondering why the shuddering problem would seem to go away for a while after the rear of the car was raised? (I'm using MP pro-stock springs).

I'm guessing that the passenger side motor mount and tranny mount are bad (they are covered with 38 years of oil from the engine and probably disintegrated). On acceleration, the engine rotates against the throttle rod with causes even more shuddering by varying the throttle input.

Does this sound about right? Could the new springs have caused a problem as well?


klt@kevinleethomason.com


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2001 2:55 pm 
Quote:
: Hi All,
: In January I bought a 63 Dart /6 with 119,000
: miles on the odo.
:
: The engine has always "shuddered"
: under medium to heavy acceleration. I
: thought it was because it was old and needed
: a rebuild. Most of the shuddering went away
: after I put on a rebuilt carb and did a
: valve adjustment and tuneup.
:
: But it still wasn't perfect.
:
: From a dead stop if I floored it, I would feel
: a heavy knocking sound seeming to come from
: the middle-rear floor of the car.
:
: A few weeks ago, I had new rear springs put in
: the car and they raised the back end up
: higher than it was before.
:
: The shuddering completely went away. (But the
: "heavy floor knocking" under hard
: acceleration remained).
:
: Then on a long drive, the shuddering came back
: worse than ever. And only on acceleration
: from slow speeds like before.
:
: I'm convinced that it's the motor mounts,
: because I experimented by putting my foot on
: the brake and giving the engine gas and the
: accelerator pedal "stuck" in the
: "on" position (i.e. the engine was
: turning against the rod linkage).
:
: I checked the rear u-joint (needed some grease)
: and the front pot-joint (seemed OK).
:
: Is this a logical conclusion? I'm wondering why
: the shuddering problem would seem to go away
: for a while after the rear of the car was
: raised? (I'm using MP pro-stock springs).
:
: I'm guessing that the passenger side motor
: mount and tranny mount are bad (they are
: covered with 38 years of oil from the engine
: and probably disintegrated). On
: acceleration, the engine rotates against the
: throttle rod with causes even more
: shuddering by varying the throttle input.
:
: Does this sound about right? Could the new
: springs have caused a problem as well?


All this points to a bad front u-joint. (Ball & Trunion) These will make the vibration you discribed and the vibration will change with the car's ride height.

Use the search function with key word: Ball Trunion (search All) There is a good thread on this topic titled "Mystery Vibration"
DD


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2001 7:03 pm 
Thanks Doug!

I was hoping it wasn't the infamous B&T.

Do you know of anyone that rebuilds these???

k
Quote:
:
: All this points to a bad front u-joint. (Ball
: & Trunion) These will make the vibration
: you discribed and the vibration will change
: with the car's ride height.
:
: Use the search function with key word: Ball
: Trunion (search All) There is a good thread
: on this topic titled "Mystery
: Vibration"
: DD



klt@kevinleethomason.com


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2001 10:41 pm 
Quote:
: Thanks Doug!
: I was hoping it wasn't the infamous B&T.
: Do you know of anyone that rebuilds these???


Most driveline shops can do the rebuild but they are $$$ to do. (hard to find that outer housing)
Most of these shops try to get you to change to the newer "cross type" u-joint set-up for which they can provide a conversion. (still $$$)
I have some used housings sitting around and sometimes you can "get lucky" just by swapping-on a different used housing and re-lubing the rollers, something most any shop with a press can do.
DD


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2001 10:31 am 
I'm going to take the car into the shop on Wednesday and let them look at it - from what you said, sounds like it's the B&T. I'm located here in the Bay Area. Would it be possible to maybe roll down to your location and buy a decent housing from you this weekend??? Then I'll get them to press in the rollers.

You can email me at <A HREF="mailto:kthomason@pillsburywinthrop.com">kthomason@pillsburywinthrop.com</A>.

k
Quote:
:
: Most driveline shops can do the rebuild but
: they are $$$ to do. (hard to find that outer
: housing)
: Most of these shops try to get you to change to
: the newer "cross type" u-joint
: set-up for which they can provide a
: conversion. (still $$$)
: I have some used housings sitting around and
: sometimes you can "get lucky" just
: by swapping-on a different used housing and
: re-lubing the rollers, something most any
: shop with a press can do.
: DD



klt@kevinleethomason.com


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2001 12:44 pm 
Quote:
: Most driveline shops can do the rebuild but
: they are $$$ to do. (hard to find that outer
: housing)
: Most of these shops try to get you to change to
: the newer "cross type" u-joint
: set-up for which they can provide a
: conversion. (still $$$)
: I have some used housings sitting around and
: sometimes you can "get lucky" just
: by swapping-on a different used housing and
: re-lubing the rollers, something most any
: shop with a press can do.
: DD


Doc,
what I have had an impossible time with is finding the rubber boot that keeps the dirt out of the b&t joint. Any idea where to find one?

tomc@abac.com


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2001 3:26 pm 
Quote:
: Doc,
: what I have had an impossible time with is
: finding the rubber boot that keeps the dirt
: out of the b&t joint. Any idea where to find
: one?


The factory replacement "service kits" are out there but take some looking.
Lately I have been using CV joint boots off the front wheel drive cars. I think the last one I used was from a Dodge Caravan but don't quote me on this. Take a couple of measurements, (big end / small end) go to the parts store and look at a few boots, (they stock a few types) you can streach them on if it's a bit small.
DD


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2001 7:55 pm 
Quote:
: I'm going to take the car into the shop on
: Wednesday and let them look at it - from
: what you said, sounds like it's the B&T. I'm
: located here in the Bay Area. Would it be
: possible to maybe roll down to your location
: and buy a decent housing from you this
: weekend??? Then I'll get them to press in
: the rollers.
:
: You can email me at
: <A HREF="mailto:kthomason@pillsburywinthrop.com">kthomason@pillsburywinthrop.com</A> .
:
: k

Idon't know if this will help but I've been rebuilding a 1978 150 (ex forest sevice pickup) I've had it forabout 18years and liked the heavy duty everthing package it came with including the /6 engine and massive 4speed/with granny low. But now after allot engine and suspenion mods allong with a shortened (14 7/16ths)short box Ilonged for a 4speed syncro. car trans. Well luck happens in the local paper a rather obscure ad for an engine and trans. from a 1963 signet.I called and the woman verifyed it was a four speed "my husband allways said it was the first one avalible" I was told about 15 years ago a brother inlaw wanted the car but not the engine and trans. I drove out to the farm looked in the barn to find compeate 68to72 /6 mated to the 63 4sd with the original patent pending hurst supercomp shifter and ball and trunion driveshaft .I talked her down to $300 and drove home with my non- reternable booty. the trans mission shop went compleatly through it. a great guy "older than dirt" the owner called him, called the union a Detroit type joint. I dident have ausable boot and needed my truck driveshaft shortend, the signet shaft was too short and had a too small yoke at the other end I was quoted $360 for a universal type drive line I said I would think about it. afew weeks later I was looking at the two transmissions and decided to take the yokes off. The two were inter changeable! 15 years apart and compatable I thought what a wonderfull company made these products. any way I got my driveshaft shortened and balanced for $79 I'm getting my head back this week with 1.50&1.75 Egge valves this week getting very excited to try out my new gears. Bruce J. portland or.

magicalbus@hotmail.com


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