what years should i tell the parts guy to get an electronic dist to swap from points. i already swapped but used the mopar performance, having driveability issues and i think it is the curve, just wanted to throw in a factory spec one and go for a spin.

What kind of car is it going on?

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Nick

1987 Dodge D-100(225/904) Daily Driver
1979 Dodge Ramcharger (318/727/NP208)(Under Construction)

SlantSixDan just sent me a couple of new elect. distributors that had a pretty good factory curve in them. (11R govenor, 8.5X vacuum pod)
He may be able to advise on what application he asked forto get these units.

As we discussed, you need a short mechanical advance curve for that high compression & medium cam engine you have. The goal is to be able to run 10 to 14 degrees initial advance and have 16 to 18 mechanical, end-up in the 28 to 30 total advance range. I would advise doing a custom curve instead of 'fishing' for a factory set distributor that would get you 'kinda close' to what you really need.
DD

Those distributors P/N 3874714 came, brand new, from SIXPACKJAC@aol.com . Paid $55/ea. Seller says he has about 25 of them. Original application is 1976 passenger car 225/automatic, except Feather Duster/Dart Lite, without California emissions, with manual transmission. This is the only type the seller has; I asked about a bunch of other P/Ns.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You have a couple of alternatives:

An original super six distributor has the short governor, good vaccuum advance curve(but you will have to swap the springs to get the curve out of the "emissions" arc into the "performance" section)...but you won't find this with a reman. And you'll be fishing all over trying to match that one unless you stripped a stock Volare.

Your next alternative can be to pull the reluctor, pickup plate, and vacc. advance out of the MP distributor...pull the one wimpy spring, and swap in two stock springs from any stock slant distributor... This will get you the initial and short governor, the curve will be heavy and not as "peppy" but it will be streetable. (I actually did this with 66Dart's MP distributor, but used the stiff big spring and left the small spring and it dials "all in" in the right range)...You may then swap the lighter stock spring out later based on shift points, cruise timing, etc...


Good luck on your quest,

-D.Idiot

this is basically the problem. there is an intermitten cutout off idle. the car does not stumble or bog. it just feels like the timing advances to quickly then backs off. the car is buttery smooth with plenty of power under all other situations. this problem occurs with or without load. the engine is a stock spec '72 225 with the fuel line rerouted,new fuel pump, the HEI conversion, and a "known good" H-1920. the car never dies, has very quite, very smooth idle, nice clean plugs, compression okay also. the only thing i could think of is that it is the dist. i swapped the mopar single light spring with the heavier ones in my points set up. this did help, but not eliminate this. i am worried that it is advancing and damaging the engine. i just chalk it up to character, but the old lady won't drive it until i can get it purrrring like a honda accord...

Check two things, the accelerator pump and the integrity of the vacum advance pod. Both of these can cause an off idle stumble if they are malfunctioning

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

I would second the acc. pump for off idle stumble...

-D.idiot

nice healthy fat squirt rolling the throttle on and also mashing it. this is a 1920 off a buddies dart that he has been running without this symptom, that is why i said its a "know good" carb. its just on loan until i can figure this out, although i need a new 1920 also if anybody has a NOS one. so are the electronic distributors still available rebuilt from the parts house? this is so frustrating i would be willing to drop $50 on a rebuild just to check it off the list. seems like i am about 10yrs late on getting the slant bug!

Remanf ones are available and not the best to just "drop in"...I tend to go over these and recurve them before I release one to the wild. You will get a random curve (you might end up with the early smog curve) from A-1...

The problem with the carb is your buddy is running "stock" ignition and you have changed yours...so you now have to change the mix to compensate a bit (in this case, it may have a nice fat squirt, but it may need a bit less of a squirt and it's getting a "rich/flood" stumble...or it's too lean/ not enough squirt and you need to change the arm to deliver more or less based on what the problem is in the transition...

If you swapped in both springs from the points distributor and set the initial at 10 BTDC, everything is as it should be...the stock springs are so heavy they won't give you enough advance to be too peppy off the line...

-D.Idiot

I contacted SIXPACKJAC@aol.com. The price for the distributors has gone up to $65 as he only has a few left. Shipping for me was $12.50 so my total was $77.50. It's not chump change, but in the grand scheme of things where else are you going to find a new /6 distributor for that money? He also has complete ignition packages on eBay for $130, but this is for my turbo project which will be using a trick Mallory ignition box with multiple rev limiters, retards, etc.

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Joshua

Me, I think the price might've gone up to $65 'cause that's what Bill Rolik (BREmotorsports on eBay) is selling the same distributor for!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

do you have a link to his auction