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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:23 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 7:39 am
Posts: 13
Location: Graham, WA
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I'm wanting to drop the rear of my '66 Dart wagon. As I understand it from other posts your can get a 1.5 - 2" drop in the rear by flipping the shackles and swapping them left to right. Is that correct? Looking in the factory manual it shows that wagons have different shackles than sedans. Does this trick work on wagons too? Anyone done it?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:25 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13135
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
It should, but you will mess up your suspension geometry.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:36 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 7:39 am
Posts: 13
Location: Graham, WA
Car Model:
I'm going to be lowering the front as well with the no dollar, torsion bar adjustment approach. Are you saying that it's going mess it up in general, or if done without adjusting the front as well?

I'm going thru the front end and replacing all the bushings, ball joints and tie rods as well. A friend with a press has offered to help with the bushing and ball joint replacement. Any advice?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 2:23 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Moderator
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:06 pm
Posts: 729
Location: Asheville, NC
Car Model:
i flipped the front shackles on my '63 dart convertible as well as my '70 swinger and had no problems. i set the pinion angle with shims afterward but i have no idea if it was in spec when i started. you will have to grind the bolt holes in the body a bit since the pattern is asymmetrical.
i wound up with both cars 1-1.5" lower than stock height in the rear but this was with s/s springs on the swinger and stock springs with 1 extra leaf on the '63 so they were a bit jacked up to begin with. i have no idea how much lower you'll end up with stock springs.

-james

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 2:37 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13135
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Everything I have read says that the rear axle tube must stay above the front rear shackle or the geometry of the rear suspension gets messed up and it doesn't work properly.

I am not a suspension expert though. I could be totally wrong on this.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 4:01 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 4:48 pm
Posts: 5835
Location: Burton BC canada
Car Model:
I did mine on stock springs years ago and have had zero problems and an excellent handling car....droppder about 2"

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 4:07 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13135
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
See? I only know about half of what I say. Take my advice with a big grain of salt... ;)


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 21, 2006 6:00 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
Posts: 2479
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
Not a "no-buck" approach, but reversible: "Adjustable" (Two-position) brackets

http://www.arengineering.com/suspension ... anger.html

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO


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