here ya go... I'm buiilding a pro-street 2300 for a friend of mine that has a 7k rpm .60 over 225, H beam 4340 rods (tad longer, in the 7" ballpark) forged pistons, 10.5:1 SCR, it's a real sweet motor.

This the carb I'm building for him

Previous pics, the junk piece that I'm working with












beginning of the cleaning process



air bleeds removed with a 3mm long drill bit



close up of the above pic


barrels cleaning and deburring

(same)


the metering plate


opening the main circuit well and the idle transfer well

(same)


well, 5 emulsion stages has been drilled on this metering plate (while the original for the 2300 equipped 225 (down here) was 3

side view of emulsion stages


the main well booster feeding channel has been enlargened to 3/16"

other side 5 emulsion stages

other side enlargened main booster feeding well


this was the original metering plate

with 3 emulsion stages

and the passages I popped open


cleanup of the booster area

tapping the bleed passages to accept 3.5mmx0.6 brass interchangeable bleeds


booster inner channel enlargened to 4 mm (3/16") with a straight reamer (NEVER USE DRILL BITS HERE!)


this is about the same screw in bleeds I'll use. the smaller ones will be going on the main well, 4UNF48 pieces. Those are slotted, I'm using hallen head ones. If I can't get 4UNF48 (odd measure here) I just use 2.5x.45 metric screws the shorter one that stands alone is going to be the idle feed restriction, moved from the top of the metering plate beneath the outermost plugged channel on each side to the top of the channel on the right of the emulsion stages one.

now you can see where to fit the 1/8" W idle restriction screw: in the top hole of that channel (sort of leaned about the same amount as the emulsion bleeds)

the other side of the metering plate


another good point for adding a screw in interchangeable restriction is the power valve channel. You can play with the amount of enrichment provided by it. This particular metering plate won't be having regulable power valve channel.


tapping the emulsion stages (always use good cutting lube on aluminium as the taps tends to peel off the newly cutted threads if you don't lube it.) And given the choice go with smaller pitch number (IE 4NC36)


emulsion stages already tapped


front cut rotary file

slightly enlargening the emulsion channel to remove burrs and marks and to provide better "breathing" and functioning of the emulsion system


enlargening of the area that feeds the booster venturis (just for cut on restriction)

comparision between the original size (on the right side) and the enlargened well (on the left side)


this two drilled passages was where idle feed restriction used to be. Those are gonna be plugged with delrin since I'll never open them again soon, since the restriction is going to be on the back of the metering plate, perfectly reachable for changing/checking/cleaning purposes

(other side)


Main wells are to be closed with INOX hallen head screws. The tip is somewht tapered so the closing is produced by the taper (sort of a BSPT tapered piece) plus this would provide excellent cleanup features

the main passages closed


emulsion passages already enlargened

other side

booster feed well enlargened

other side

extended jet to prevent fuel starvation on hard braking



Update: I've purchased a small bead blasting machine. More like a hand arerograph, you can use glass beads, (salt would be thick compared to the size of the abrassives you can use with this litle beauty) and aluminium oxide. I've started by cleaning all the stuff with aluminium oxide then glass bead blasted it (aluminium oxide leaves sort of a "open" wound to the "flesh" of the carb, glass beads helps to comform a skin (closes the porosity) and leaves a nice satin finish. I'll post bead blasting pix soon!

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Hm... any chance you could come up w/ some text explaining the mods you're making there, particularly to the metering plate? I'm interested...

_________________
Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

You might want to place a warning for the time it takes to load these pic-- thanks for sharing your fabrication --

here you go
already warned it again on the title, but the average image is 640x480 50% compressed JPG and sizes ain't going over 40kb. I do realize that they are a LOT of pics. I cutted down some of the duplicated or irrelevant snaps.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

So while your in there why haven't you replaced the normal boosters with a set of less restrictive downleg boosters for a bit more cfm and better metering?


-D.Idiot

Yeah, what Cstryker said! Feel like writing up an essay on the "why" (problem/solution/improvement) of all of these mods?

These photos show very impressive work and attention to detail. I wanna see your shop someday!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I've done so on mine. This guy needs this carb "YA" now! because he can't run that slant w/o a special calibration carb. I did annular boosters using the original pieces on mine... check it out at "experimental venturi fabbing" as a search string. Now he's ordered me 2 carbs bodies, noe for using it now and the other with special venturis. I'll remove them boosters, scrap al polish the venturi on each barrel (to .001 tolerance... hehehe) and I've found 2 great profiles from K/S engineering, one is a hollow double wing shape tube that measures say 1/8" by 1/4" assimetric elipse shape (hence the double wing profile) and a very promissing 21/32 hollow tube that has a 1/64" thickness. Now I can go either way: I braze the double wingshape tube to an attaching piece that wuld be held by means of a nut on the carb's body, and to the 21/32 outer "booster shell". (that's step one on each case) then I can line a piece of sollid brass to "stuff" the 21/32" booster shell or I can use K&S excellent "one slides inside the other" feature to create as much layers as I want, brazing them with an excellent american torch called "the little torch" that has sappire tips (I use it on my main work as a woodwind repairman, the smallest tip permits to melt a .08 brass inside a parliament's recessed filter w(o burning the filter or the paper... I read that and I had to do it...

Being a lathe fanatinc as I am, I'll go with the solid stock lined to my cranky will

When I can get outta bed (bad floo! 104! ) I'll take some pics of the alum oxide (600 grit) and glass beads (1200 grit) blasted pieces and some pix of my very own custom boosters 2300 (never got the patience to take the pictures... I finished it and I ran off to the garage to install it and tune it)

other recommendable upgrade is remove the stupid checkball at the accel pump fuel bowl side and convert it to rubber umbrella type. That rocks! it's amazing HOW much improves the accel shot delivery lag that some old beaten checkball type bowls has.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

if you feel like "watching pictures", I can post some spanish articles written by me for my site www.infododge.com

http://www.infododge.com.ar/art/plaquet ... 201922.pdf

that's the explanation of an argentinian carb metering block (derivative of the 1920)

http://www.infododge.com.ar/art/holley2300%20parte1.pdf

holley 2300 part one

http://www.infododge.com.ar/art/holley2300%20parte2.pdf

holley 2300 part two

http://www.infododge.com.ar/art/restaur ... guetas.PDF

inox trim restoration made easy!

http://www.infododge.com.ar/art/Curva%2 ... endido.pdf

dist recurving part 1 - general concepts

http://www.infododge.com.ar/art/Recurva ... buidor.pdf

dist recurving part 2

(they all are applied to our argentinian slant six cars, the mother of the spanish 3700 GT) we had plenty of those cars with /6 veing the hottest the 1965 valiant 3 GT (american dart 63) with factory equipped dual 1 barrel manifold, developed by the people of "cañossilen", a very good headers shop that started with custom ex fabrication back in 1956 or so... www.caniossilen.com ) rated 184 BHP @ 8:1 CR... drag? 3 on the floor! 833 didn't arrived till 1968 when "the big line" (a newly built sheetmetal A body based on the 67 dart) came into production... but by that time they equipped the cars with the sucky (sorry you carter lovers) BBD's, reducing it's power to 155 HP. That was the only year of production for the dodge GT (basically my coronado but with a hotter slant and an all-american -from bellhousing to slip yoke- 833 hurst shifted trans)

I offered doug and chuck to translate this articles if they allowed me to translate some useful articles that are here... but never got answered... I know they're busy guys. I'll eventually translate them. (of course I intended to credit /6-org as our inspiration and copyright for the material I intended to use)

this' too long, sorry!

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Juan,

What do you think of Quick Fuel Technology's adjustable metering blocks for those of us not patient enough to do all the mods you've done to original metering blocks?

http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/34-5.htm
http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/

I think I have enough patience to duplicate your annular venturis from the original straight leg boosters, but how do you remove and install the boosters?

Also, if you would be willing to share a baseline calibration for a hot slant and the annular booster 350 Holley I would be quite grateful.

Sincerely,

_________________
Joshua

Jaun
We all hope you get over the flu soon
Alot of folks dont know its winter time south of the line!!
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

hey josh

for that money if I had that metering block avalible I wouldn't have no patience for performing the mods I've done it's the best money you can spend on a holley 350, 500 or even good for having a 600 cfm 4 barrels tailored to work on a hot slant.

baseline for my car: 57 jets, 28 squirter with modified shooter cam profile (I had no different cams avalible down here and I had no patience to wait for a holley kit so I just grabbed one and filed it as desired) with a 30cc accel pump, 1.4 mm idle air bleeds, .7mm high speed air bleeds, 1.2 mm holes on the back of each throttle blade, idle transfer slot sigthly enlargened, 8.5 or 10.5 power valve, hi flow single stage, .040" power circuit holes (on the back of the metering block, covered with the power valve assembly, I added "jets" there one on each side so I can tailor not only the moment where the power circuit starts to richen up things but the amount of fuel added) I have 28 BTDC total mech with 15 to 17 btdc initial timing, no vac pod, large cam with aggresive chevy hydro lobre profile (not really good for lashing valves!) and plenty of duration with 108° LSA IIRC and low lift so it would rev up easier on the valvetrain and not need stiff springs

I'll look for pictures of the screw in fixation I used for my 2300. I'm recording music away from home now, you can get an idea here: www.infododge.com.ar/art0000.html download the holley 2300 parte 2 (part 2 in spanish) article, there's pictures on that article so you can start peeping sooner than I'll be able to post the pictures here.

also since I did this and other mods I got a plating gear and now I can refinish the pieces to gold iridited, anodized, etc...

EDIT: pictures of the removable booster mod, I intended to use this carb for testing boosters... due to health issues I ended up sending the guy MY carb (my car is all dismantled and has been in that condition for long over 1 year now, and I have plenty of real work to do so I'm moving at really small pace...) but I keep at least one prototype of each piece I fab most of the time (at least one piece, and of course the tools that I fab for the lathe if I need special shape cutters) so duplitacing this would be a piece of cake if needed.







annular boosters:

_________________
Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Juan,

I'm encouraged that you agreed with my implied assessment that the Quick Fuel metering plate is a good choice. I just wish I knew where to start with the emulsion bleeds!

After I posted last night I scanned through the Spanish language .pdf file that showed your custom booster retaining screw. This one: http://www.infododge.com.ar/art/holley2300%20parte2.pdf That answers how the modified boosters are retained. It just leaves me wishing it were somewhat easier than fabricating that retaining screw and tapping the booster, but I suppose that's the best way to go. I'll just have to relearn single point threading to get the screws made.

I just came back in from the garage. I dug out an old 1850-3 parts carb and took a 3/8" drill to the back side of the boosters. After drilling out the expanded (spun in) part I was able to tap the boosters into the carb body. Now I know how to get the boosters out.

Thanks for all the info! This is going to save me a lot of time and I'll end up with a much better running car too!

_________________
Joshua

josh, if you're say 75% you're not going to need (as in desesperatedly want) another boosters swap, there's a way in wich you can remove them, 2cook" the mod and then press fit them again (along with some epoxi for better sealing purposes) it would involve the turn of a simple tool to hammer them boosters out without cutting the expanded part. It's kind of a 60° included angle rod with a 1/8 OD x .250" long pilot. The OD of the rod has to be measured to push on the beveled unexpanded part of the booster (the part that you can see on the carb's main body, metering block mating surface) Then with a delrin (ha1) or wood mallet, you give one or two dry blows and the booster's out. I've spared myself the hassle in some carbs that I knew wasn't going to see another boosters swap.

as far as QF metering block, I'm getting 2 of these for xmas... (my sister lives in Penn and she's visiting for xmas... hehehe)

_________________
Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Well, the parts carb still has boosters in the secondary side. I'll have to see if I can make up a tool and knock them out before trying the same on the good 350. I doubt I'd ever want to change the boosters away from the annular ones so this will save some labor. What epoxy do you use and do you use it in the venturi to secure the booster or elsewhere?

Thanks again!

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Joshua