Did the 2bbl conversion on the dart this Sunday, and everything seems to be pretty good except that when accelerating, it seems to bog down and delay the shift into 2nd gear a little bit...

Can anybody tell me what's going on and how to fix this?

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1973 Dart Swinger Super 6 with 71k
1976 Datsun 280ZX with Mopar I-6

Can you be more specific about what you mean by "bog down"?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Some of the other questions that are likely to come up so you may want to answer them right away:
1. Have you checked for vacuum leaks around the intake and exhaust manifold?

2. Did you rebuild the carb? which carb did you use, Carter BBD or Holley?
if you did rebuild the carb did you follow the adjustment/setup procedure in the rebuild kit or from a FSM?

3. Did you adjust the timing after the intake carb changed?

4. What did you do about the choke?

more information will give a better idea of possbile causes, I think I hinted at four of the possible causes above. SSDan can give you a much better idea once you provide some more information.

Brian

Did you swap the whole kickdown linkage, including the lever on the transmission? Maybe check the kickdown adjustment for the shift problem.

Jerry

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There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

1) get that replacement choke soon, like was missing from your e-bay set.

2) the kickdown is adjusted per the 1978 Manual

3)I'll bet the mismatched intake is now starting to wear in and causing an intermittent vaccuum leak (probably more of a problem warm than cold)...will need to pull whole stack and get it to a machine shop for a serious planing.

4) The BBD was rebuilt, and my last "good" one (no leaks, and set per the manual...and checked on my duster...)

Get the choke and install it, and then get your truck in order and get the I/E stack pulled and sent to a machine shop for a proper smoothing.



-D.Idiot

1) get that replacement choke soon, like was missing from your e-bay set.

2) the kickdown is adjusted per the 1978 Manual

3)I'll bet the mismatched intake is now starting to wear in and causing an intermittent vaccuum leak (probably more of a problem warm than cold)...will need to pull whole stack and get it to a machine shop for a serious planing.

4) The BBD was rebuilt, and my last "good" one (no leaks, and set per the manual...and checked on my duster...)

Get the choke and install it, and then get your truck in order and get the I/E stack pulled and send to a machine shop for a proper smoothing.



-D.Idiot

I couldn't find the choke pull off today, but I did search the database and found a specific part number that hopefully is the right one (DI if you know the number off the carb that would help me), so the choke is still wired open. The timing was adjusted after the conversion.

After driving it a bit more, this is what I think is happening, it starts off in first, then at about 10 mph it shifts into second, but only for a moment then immediately into third. At first the shifts were so close together that I couldn't differentiate them, but at slower speeds I could feel it out.

It actually runs fine when it warms up, I've been loving it the last two days, but starting it up when it's cold in the morning has been not so fun... It doesn't help the egr is still unhooked too, but that's an easier fix.

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1973 Dart Swinger Super 6 with 71k
1976 Datsun 280ZX with Mopar I-6

You can use 8137 or 8177 for the carb.


You need this choke: ebay item 260030803481


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0030803481


-D.Idiot

A used choke and choke modulator that's been "blasted clean"? No thanks!

Your transmission's short-shifting behaviour sounds like one of two problems:

1) the throttle pressure valve fell out of the grip of the trans throttle pressure ("kickdown") lever. This can easily occur if all of the preload is taken off the trans kickdown lever, even for a moment, as often occurs when you are changing linkage and levers. Drop the pan and operate the throttle through its full travel while watching the works inside the trans housing from underneath. I suspect you will not see the throttle valve being operated by the kickdown lever!

2) The kickdown adjustment isn't set properly. It can be pretty confusing when you're under the car actually making the adjustment; it's really easy to get crossed up and move the slider box the wrong direction. Try loosening the clamp bolt and moving the slider box one inch to the rear, relative to the kickdown rod coming down from the carb, then tightening the clamp bolt. If this makes a significant difference (your kickdown operation comes back, and the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts occur at noticeably higher road speeds), then all you have to do is fine-tune the position of the slider box on the kickdown rod. Moving it rearward (towards the lower end of the rod) makes the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts later and harder, and the kickdown earlier. Moving it forward (towards the front of the car) makes the 1-2 and 2-3 occur earlier and softer, and the kickdown later.

If, however, you get no difference with this 1-inch-rearward adjustment, then the valve has come disengaged from the actuator fork, and you'll need to drop the trans pan to correct it.

I don't (yet) see anything in your list of symptoms suggesting that you have a vacuum leak at the intake manifold as DI suggests.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I already made that adjustment for him, one more inch to the rear with the slider box and he won't have the box and spring on the rod anymore....he is due to change out his tranny fluid and have the bands checked, so I would concur in pulling the pan and checking the lever/valve relationship.



>He does need a choke for his super six, anyone got a source for a working one?< (Actually I need one too eventually...)


-D.Idiot

I bought a Standard-Hygrade choke coil earlier this year at my local bumper to bumper auto parts. I will get you a part number tommorow

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

I got a choke coming this morning from Seattle, Carquest was the only place I could find it, the part number for future reference is CV230, and I got the only one in the western half as I understand it... Napa had nothing, the 2-328 from Echlin is obsolete/disco'd.

I'll keep everybody posted on how it winds up being fixed, but my gf is really sick right now and I'm not getting anything done for a day or two it looks like....

Thanks for the help

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1973 Dart Swinger Super 6 with 71k
1976 Datsun 280ZX with Mopar I-6

Dan, I disagree with this. I have seen this posted, before, and couldn't visualize it, so didn't want to call anyone out about it. Tonight I removed a valve body from a trans, and took a close look. Tried to get the lever to miss the valve. The only way that can happen, is if the "E" clip on the kickdown lever shaft is removed. Then the shaft can drop, and the internal lever can miss the valve. Thing is, even if the "E" clip were missing, the shaft still couldn't drop, if the external kickdown lever was still on the shaft.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Well Carquest couldn't find the part and in case anybody was wondering the junk yard scene in Portland/Vancouver is lame!! Forget about anything older than 10-15 years unless its a Camry or Accord...

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1973 Dart Swinger Super 6 with 71k
1976 Datsun 280ZX with Mopar I-6

I couldn't find the box with the part number on it but I found this electric choke conversion kit. For about the same thing you would spend on a new choke thermostat you can get a setup that is fully adjustable and much more reliable.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2