when i disconnect the spark plug wire, the spark is real low (weak), installed a new coil, new plug wires, plugs (AC Delco gapped at .40), distributor is 1 year old (electronic) and the mopar orange box is also about a year old. what would cause this? what do i begin looking for, i don't want to just slam new parts on it until it works. alternator is also about a month old (remanufactured , sorry dan).

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

The Mopar orange boxes have been of poor quality for a few years now, and you don't mention the status of the cap and rotor, but...what symptom is it that you're trying to correct? "Yellow spark" isn't a driveability or performance fault.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I would change out the Orange Box for a real Standard Motor Products LX101. Check for full battery voltage at the coil during cranking (see what cranking battery voltage is first) and double check the coil polarity. What brand coil did you use?

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Joshua

the rotor looks fine, cap doesn't have any major visiable damage. i replaced it about 3 months ago when i did a full tune up. it's a pertronix flamethrower 2 coil. in regards to checking polarity and battery voltage: i take the volt meter and set it for 12 volts? and the battery should give me the full 12 right? the coil also?

sorry if i'm being a pain. i've never really tested the electrical system before so i want to make sure i get this done right.

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

...still waiting for the answer to this important question...

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

the carb guy told me that it isn't a carburation problem, but a spark/ignition problem

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

The + terminal on the coil gets full battery voltage during cranking and reduced voltage during running. The - terminal is switched to ground by the ignition box/module. If memory serves the + wire is dark blue and the - wire is black with a white or yellow stripe. Check your wiring diagram to verify this please.

The volt meter probably has a 20V or 25V scale unless it's an auto-ranging meter. Use the 20V range and check battery voltage during cranking. You will want to remove the coil wire from the distributor and ground it so you have time to read the meter. A helper is a darn good idea as is making sure the test leads aren't in the fan.

Test the voltage from the + coil terminal to a good ground. The coil voltage during cranking should be equal or very close to battery voltage.

Have you thrown away the Orange Box yet?

Also, half of all ignition problems are carburetor problems. Don't take the carb guy's word as gospel.

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Joshua

no, but i'm working on it!
it never ends

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr