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 Post subject: Adjusting door hinges
PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2006 5:13 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2004 8:01 pm
Posts: 1937
Location: Rhine, GA
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The lower passenger side door hinge on my car has some slack in it so you have to pick the door up or slam it to get it to shut. It is not enough to warrant changing the door hinge. My dad says I can adjust it out but I don't see any adjustment slots on the door hinges. What is the proper adjustment procedure?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 8:25 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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There is no adjustment that will compensate for worn hinges. When the wear is severe enough that you have to lift the door up to get it to latch, it's time to rebuild the hinges. There are numerous hinge-rebuild services available (check Hemmings) and there are several sources for rebuild kits consisting of new bushings and hinge pins.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2006 4:43 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Rhine, GA
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I have a parts car that has perfect door hinges on it (was wrecked at 800 miles). It just looks like it would be a pain to change the hinges becasue of the location of the hinge bolts. One of them looks like it is almost hidden behind the fender.

Can I rebuild the hinges with them on the car?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2006 9:21 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Wed Aug 30, 2006 1:00 pm
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Resurrecting and old topic here....

I noticed when I took my hinges out to rebuild them (still in need of a spring, no a-bodies with doors at my local junkyard, what other models are interchangeable?) that the bolt holes in the body were filled with some sort of sealant or foam around the bolts. I'm guessing this is to keep water and air from leaking in? Should I clean out the old stuff and put fresh sealant in and if so, what is normally used?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2006 6:28 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2004 8:01 pm
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Location: Rhine, GA
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That black stuff is 3-M strip caulk, also known as dum-dum. you should be able to get it at any reputable automotive store.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2006 9:25 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2006 1:33 pm
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Location: syracuse, ny
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the bolts for the door hinge are easily accessible... 2 screw into the hinges from the outside and the third bolt screws in from the inside... easy removal

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 4:00 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:06 pm
Posts: 729
Location: Asheville, NC
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jeb-
you'll have to remove the hinges for rebuilding since you'll have to drive the old pins out and drill the now distorted holes oversize for bushings. getting the hinges in and out really isn't that hard to do. just remember to support the door with a floorjack and a block of wood and remove/rebuild/reinstall them one at a time and you should be ok.
i used kits from the HELP! section of my local parts store 6 or 7 years ago and they never gave any trouble on my '70 swinger. the part number is 38382 and come with upper and lower pins and new bronze bushings (enough for one door.) good luck!

-james

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2006 5:31 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Wed Aug 30, 2006 1:00 pm
Posts: 13
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Quote:
That black stuff is 3-M strip caulk, also known as dum-dum. you should be able to get it at any reputable automotive store.
Actually, this stuff is white. Looks like some sort of spray-in foam. Some of it stuck to the bolts as I removed them, but most of it still stayed stuck in the square shape adjustment holes.


Another question, when you drill out the lower hinge for bushings, I assume you just drill out the inner hinge holes? The outer hinge holes, well one of them has the little teeth that the pin grabs to so as not to spin, and it doesn't seem to make sense to me to press the bushing in through both hinges. The door hinges would then turn on the bushing, instead of the pin and that would be messed up. Still, there's nothing to take out the slop of the bottom outer hinge hole then. ???

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'71 Plymouth Scamp 318ci
'95 Dodge Dakota Sport 5.2L 5spd
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2006 1:44 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 6:50 pm
Posts: 446
Location: Redding, CA
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For my door that was sagging, I put a couple of washers on the three bolts behind the lower hinge. Not very high tech, but the door looks straight and closes just fine. I guess if it goes farther, I will have to put some more effort into fixing it, but at the time I had a ton of work to do on the car.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2006 7:18 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Wed Sep 20, 2006 7:00 am
Posts: 65
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I have the same problem... When its not so serious you can adjust the regulation of the door. Check it and you`ll find that the holes are nor perfect round, they are oval, that shape lets a bit of regulation rate. Pick the door up and once you fiund the correct hight, just pressure!

Anyway, a new piece is not expensive I guess...

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