I have my engine on an engine cart and have all of the crank main bearing bolts loose except for the ones at the front seal. Thay are sqeezed by the seal 8 or ten point bolts in the seal piece. I do not know the head size of the bolt or the type of tool I have to use to remove it. I have truied an 11/32 socket(8 pt.) and it slips with pressure. I was wondering if there is such a thing as a 21/64 socket(8 pt.) or si there a special tool to remove these seal bolts? I am removing the CS because the pistons are frozen and I need to try to remove them through the pan side since I have not been able to get them out the other direction. I have soaked them with Mystic Marvel, molasses and water and have had no luck. I would appreciate some help. This has been going on for approx. 3 months.
Thanks,Roger

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I have a '72 Duster with a 225 in it and an auto tranny. It has 60k on it , but has been in the weather for a lot of years.

You are refering to the "REAR" main seal. Those bolts are 12 point, 3/8 inch.
PS: the pistons will not come out the bottom.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

The top ring may be catching on the wear ridge at the top of the cylinder. If the ridge is severe you might have to use a ridge reamer to remove it before you will be able to push out the pistons. They will not come out from the bottom.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

I just took mine out about 45 minutes ago and had to use a ridge reamer to get them out.

Did this engine get water in it, are the cylinders rusted?

As for the rear main seal cap bolts, Charrlie called the size. 3/8- 12 point.
I keep a special socket just for those because the hex can be easily "rounded-off" if you use a worn or poor fitting socket.

If the hex is rounded, you can try to pound-on a smaller size socket to get a grip on the head.
For me....I just pull-out the drill motor, centerpunch the head of the bolt and drill off the head. Once the cap is off you can use some vice grips to pull out our newly created stud.
DD

Hey guys,
Thank you so much for your responses. I bought a couple of 3/8s inch, 12 pt. sockets today and used the 3/8 in drive one and broke the bolt of in the block and the other one is very tight, but is moving. The engine only has 60k on it and the ridges are almost nonexistent. I have removed two of the pistons that were closet to the TDC, but the others will not move at all.
I have a Chilton's Truck Manual for years 67-88. Is there a better manual? I have a Haynes, but know the feelings toward it, so I take its info with a grain of salt. The car was outside for a few years with the exhaust/intake manifolds off and that is why there is so much rust. The molasses apears to have cleaned the rust from the cylinders after about 3 weeks. Any other advice would be highly appreciated.
Thanks,
Roger

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I have a '72 Duster with a 225 in it and an auto tranny. It has 60k on it , but has been in the weather for a lot of years.

Unless your heart is really set on the motor you have, I'd get other motor. They can be got pretty cheap if you look around a bit.
Continue taking this one apart for the exprience.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir