My 73 Swinger has good suspension, new 5-leafs in back, KYBs all around, a newly installed Hellwig front sway bar, new 225/60/15 TA Radials on all four. It handles very good in the corners, actually handles better than I thought it would before I started this project.

However, the steering box itself is a little squirrley (power steering, no leaks). Going down the road straight, espcially older, not so perfect roads, it has a tendency to wander some. I tightened the steering box not quite a quarter turn. Any more and it is too tight. It handles much better, but still likes to wander some. (it was really bad before I tightened it).

The guy who aligned the car said that tightening the box would ruin it, and I would have to replace eventually, but I had to do something.

Is this just how it is? Are these steering boxes just sloppy no matter what? Are the manual steering boxes less sloppy? (the power steering is defineitely over powered anyway)

I've seen the Flaming River boxes at Summit, and the firmfeel boxes here
http://www.firmfeel.com/manualst.htm
Is one better than the other, or are they virtually the same. Any other sources for new manual boxes (hopefully cheaper) These things are expensive! Plus I will need the coupler for another $100+.

I've looked in the wrecking yards, all I seem to see are power steering boxes. Are the mopar truck boxes the same as cars? Besides, if I buy a wrecking yard box, I will probably just end up with a worn box anyway.

I could get one of the reman auto parts store box, but I'm pretty sure I will see some negative responses here for that option.

Any opinions on my best options? I will probably own the car for many years, so I would like to do it right.

Something tells me it's not your box.

First verify that everything in the front end really is good. The lower control arm bushings can be shot but you have to get under there to really see. These can make it loose even if everything else is good. Make sure the idler arm is good. If there are allot of miles on the car the front end probably needs a complete rebuild. To run larger radials everything needs to be in good shape for it to work well. The skinny stock tires are much less critical, at least you won't notice problems so much. If the front end is good find out what specs your car is aligned to. Try to get over 3 degrees pos. castor and 0 - 1/2 degree neg camber. Also they might have given the car too much toe in for the radials. I don't know for sure, but if 73's came with bias plys the factory toe spec. is likely too much for big radials. Try getting it set to about 1/16" - 3/32" total. These are more performance oriented settings. The neg camber might make the tires wear on the inside edges, but not if you drive hard. It will handle better and prevent the tires from wearing on the outside edges in that case. Firm feel is the only good power steering option I have found for mopars, I'd be interested in hearing about others as well. Guys talk about the cop car boxes, but good luck finding a nice one. Look up bump steer in mopars. It's a more involved fix but could be part of your problem.

You adjusted the cross shaft with the top screw...did you also adjust the worm sector preload?

The factory P/S setup gives almost no road feel, but should not have noticeable slop/play. It may be time for a rebuilt box, in which case Firm Feel or Steer & Gear can supply a "cop spec" box with much better road feel and self-centring action.

The Flaming River box is a silly waste of money and adds unnecessary weight.

I don't prefer P/S in A-bodies, myself. I like a 20:1 manual box.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My '71 power steering box suddenly developed a (internally) leaky O-ring up inside the top control valve - it made it boost away from straight and very hard and scary to drive; kind of a falling-off-a-log feeling.

It didn't leaked anything to the outside and everythink looked OK from the outside.

I swapped on another control valve assembly, adjusted it as per the manual, and have had no problems since.

If you don't find any unusual play anywhere, you might look into the control valve. It is fairly easy to swap.

I'm not sure what the worm sector preload is, but I'm sure I will find it in the FSM, and will check it out. Thanks for the tip on the rebuilt cop boxes.

I thought I would only have the choice of my current power steering or a switch to manual, which I wouldn't mind, but putting on a cop box will cost about $300 less.

Do you have any preference between Steer & Gear and the FimFeel? The Steer & Gear boxes are about $34 less, the core charge is $90 less (although I will get this refunded), but they don't give you the 3 choices of steering firmness (stages) the FirmFeel boxes give.

Well, Firm Feel is just up the left coast so shipping is likely to be less. They are a small operation that gives good service. Dick Ross is a real Chrysler guy. And he lets me bug him when I drop by. Actually I owe him lunch since he bought last time.

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Joshua

Thanks, the shipping is a factor with these heavy iron parts. I'll let him know you recommended him when I order and that means he owes YOU lunch .

Chrysler P/S units are way over-assisted; I second the motion for a manual fast-ratio box. Even standard-ratio manuals in A-bodies are better than the power units, IMHO...

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How come no one mentioned a loose steering column coupler?

The only manual steer vehicle Ive had was my 79 D 100 shortbed, /6, 3 on the tree, manual brakes. I loved that truck! Sold it after 7 years to a friend, he had it a couple years til the frame busted at the emer brake pivot by the gas tank. ook more of a licking than any Timex i ever had and wouldnt die. Even towing or loaded down (which was often in that one)I could drive that truck with my hand on the steering wheel "Window wash" style. "armstrong" power steering wasn't as bad as many make it out to be, if I was moving AT ALL.

What kind of tires did your manual steering pickup have?

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Joshua