Before I created a fresh air intake on Big Red, on a 60'f day, my IAT easily moved up to 120'f when idling at a red light and idle quality dropped significantly. Condition became worse if I had heated up the exhuast manifold considerably after periods of significant boost. Are you pulling hot underhood air into your inlet? For my EFI, IAT is important.

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Cheers!
Al T

Al, Intake air is pulled from the front, right where the battery used to be, and draws it's air from right beside the radiator. But I suppose I could get it more directly routed from the outside, like maybe from the wheel well. Your big red is really quite amazing. I hope to learn more about it. I used to have it bookmarked, but my computer died, and I switched ISP's and the bookmark is gone..
Sam

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just click the www button on my post signatures

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Cheers!
Al T

I did a data log of the warm up driving problems, and there was one place 67 seconds into the data log where the ignition advance went to zero, and then returned to 17 advanced over the course of the next second. This seemed to be the begining of the stumbling and missing that lasts for about a minute. I am going to send this data log to Eli for him to analyze. It seems as if perhaps the ignition count is not reliable when it is warming up. But after it is warmed up, it seems to run fine. So much happens so fast, that I don;t know where to look, and the data log only records 5 different items out of about 15 things you could look at.

Any ideas here? Could fuel or timing cause an ignition read to go away for a moment? The things I recorded are RPM, Coolant temp, MAP reading, O2 voltage, and TPS position. When it gets squirly, the MAP lines, and O2 lines just bounce all over the place. And I push the throttle in little busts trying to keep it alive. Just reving it to 3K seems to keep it going, but it has no power, and I pretty much have to coast along for a minute or so, and then she calms down and runs fine. There is much back firing and popping during this period, and I am sure I scaring the locals half to death. This happens pretty much every time I start it after it has set for a spell. . It happened last monday after I had been out playing with data logging, it had been running fine, and I went back out to try it again after it sat for about 30 minutes, and it behaved the same way all over again. It is like a ghost gets ahold of it. I am wondering if I have got the Idle Air Solenoid adjusted correctly in relation to the throttle stop. Eli told me how to do this, but I must confess I really did not understand his procedure, even though at the time, I thought I did. If I let it warm up fully in the driveway, it runs fine.

I am not panicked here. Just wonder if any of the resident geniuses here can point me in some helpful direction. What should I be looking for. The soft ware has a raft of data that can be looked at. I just need to know where to look.
Sam

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I was thinking about this problem as I was drifting off to sleep last night. I think this start up problem has been much worse in closed loop operation. I am not certain, but the few times I went out just to adjust the VE tables, I had the closed loop function turned off, and I cannot remember things getting so crazy. But then, I turned the closed loop back on to see how it ran in that mode, and there I experienced the problem, right about 165 degrees ECT. I am wondering if it is possible to set the closed loop to come on at 200 or so. The basic Calmap,which I have, has much of the program unavailable to me. I think it is partly to make money,(DUH) but partly to keep amatuers like me from really zooing things up. For now I will operate it in open loop until I really get more precise tuning, and calibration on it.


Sam

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Looking at the map files you gave me about a month ago I could see that around 165 is where all the startup corrections tappered off and started letting the normal maps run things.

I was going to ask you to make me some logs but I think I better ask a few other things first. WHich version Calmaps do yo have, When you open Calmaps it gives the version on the opening page at the right about half way down. The resion I ask is the version I have is 5.5 and it will let you pick from about 40 or 50 choices for data logging, but then you can do anly 6 lines of data. Makes me wander if you might be able to upgrade to a little better version even if its not the pro version it may help some.

Jess

Jesse, my version is 5.0.2, and it sounds as if it is pretty much the same as what you describe. I must get the prokey, or the sportsman key to do the more sophisiticated tunings so I pretty much will have to spend that money if I am going to get it much better. I have been reading the manual over and over, and there are some pretty neat things that I have no control over now. I would like to be able to delay closed loop until about 185 or so. Right now, I need to lengthen the after start enrichment decay, but cannot do that. It takes many tries to get it started when it is cold.

The calibration I am using now, is much changed from the one I sent you. The base map is richer, and the ECT VE table modifier is different, as well as the spark tables, and target idle tables. I think my wide band gauge actually is giving me reliable feedback. I suspect the VE tables were so goofed up, that the AF ratio was just all over the place. I really am getting dialed in here on the base tables, but have a ways to go.

I have to get the manifold surface temp sensor mounted, which is still unhooked. And I do want to take Al-T's advice and get the intake air drawn from oustside the engine compartment somehow. I looked at a Buick Grand National at a car show, and the intercooler picks up air from down near the ground with a forced air scoop. Something like tht might work if I can work it out. Thanks for your feedback.
Sam

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Yea I figured the base maps have changed alot sense you sent me a copy. Do you have to flash the ECM firmwear to upgrade to a higher version of the software. If not your welcome to this 5.5 version I have. I can send it to uyou if you wish ( its not a Demo version its the real version).

If you want send me your lattest maps. You could send me any data logs you have also. Does your Wideband setup do data logging, if its working properly then maybe you need to get it hooked to the DFI for O2 feedback and this would make a big diff in tunning. You just need to know the Voltage versus A/F that the O2 puts out and then it can be mached up to the DFI. If it dont data log on its own this would allow you to log it threw DFI. This is what it takes to get the VE table right, you need to log the A/F corrections and that will tell you which way to ajust the VE table. But you can't use the Norrow band sensor to do this for WOT, only cruise. The wideband will be needed for WOT.


Jess

Sam


I dont think my version is a sport key or pro key but I am not sure. But you can down load it here if you wish to try it.


http://go.mrgasket.com/calmap/calmapdownload.asp

Just click on the one thats says Calmaps for Gen7 then the next page will have version V5.5.0 Zip on it for downloading.


Jess