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 Post subject: My 66 Dart
PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2006 4:55 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2004 4:00 am
Posts: 143
Location: Southern Indiana
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Hi All,
This is a test. Trying to learn how to use image hosting. Hope this works. If it does-this is a pciture of my 66 Dart-if it doesn't-I'll try again.
Thanks
ToddImage Cool! I did it. That's my 66 Dart, 225,auto, working factory AC, power steering and brakes. Also in bad need of a paint job... 22mpg on a recent roadtrip.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2006 6:26 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
Posts: 2479
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
Looks like a primered '66 Dart to me!

How are you planning to paint it?

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2006 11:41 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Dec 01, 2004 4:00 am
Posts: 143
Location: Southern Indiana
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I'm not really sure what direction I'm going with the paint job yet-the factory color was white. I will probably paint it back white. I have watched the rustoleum roller paint threads with much interest but I don't know if I have the time and patience to go with that method. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Todd


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2006 3:09 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
Posts: 2011
Location: Argentina
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if the car ain't in need of bodywork, you can get a cheap compressor, a cheap gravity fed spary gun and build yourself a tint out in your yard, and spray it yourself. For that kind of cheap but not so sloppy as the roller paintjob, you'll be amazed with the results. Be prepared to mask up rubber lips, and trim if you don't want to remove it (I know I would, especially the one that goes in the middle of all panels, the grille and the tail trims. If rust hasn't showed up on the surface, and your "base" is safe and sound, you might get away with no primer at all, if you're a good sander. I did a car this way using basf's Glassurit GlassoNitro (comes in "sport black" "aluminium" "pure white" and "clear" ) painted her white, then sanded off and applied 2 coats of 1 component lacquer, and ended up looking like a pro $8k paintjob. Can't take the credit, the car was completely safe and all I did was sand, spray 2 or 3 coats per day, then sand, spray 2 more heavy coats of color, sand and spray laquer, one thin layer and after 30 minutes another heavier coat. Waited 7 days, then hand polished. stunning! did look like a period correct factory paint and lasted for years and years. Last time I saw that car (BTW was exactly like yours but our relabeled valiant IV coronado) there was some hairline cracks in the roof.... after like 7 years. I'd call that a good prospect...

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2006 3:24 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
Posts: 2479
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
Quote:
... kind of cheap but not so sloppy as the roller paintjob ...
The rollered Rustoleum job can be as sloppy - or as neat - as you want. It is definitely cleaner than spraying in terms of overspray in the garage and on the rest of the car.
On the painted surface themselves, runs and sags can be handled immediately, rather than waiting for the panel to dry.

You'll need patience with any painting you do yourself. Good bodywork and surface prep makes all the difference. The defects in my car's finish are not in the kind of paint, or the way it was applied. They are in my straightening, filling, and sanding.

I enjoyed the work, or at least most of it.

Of course, you can always pay someone to do it for you.

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2006 4:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 4:20 am
Posts: 2011
Location: Argentina
Car Model:
Quote:
Quote:
... kind of cheap but not so sloppy as the roller paintjob ...
The rollered Rustoleum job can be as sloppy - or as neat - as you want. It is definitely cleaner than spraying in terms of overspray in the garage and on the rest of the car.
On the painted surface themselves, runs and sags can be handled immediately, rather than waiting for the panel to dry.

You'll need patience with any painting you do yourself. Good bodywork and surface prep makes all the difference. The defects in my car's finish are not in the kind of paint, or the way it was applied. They are in my straightening, filling, and sanding.

I enjoyed the work, or at least most of it.

Of course, you can always pay someone to do it for you.
sorry, ain't meant to disrespect the technique nor the people using it.

My original thought was that a compressor and a spraygun ain't that expensive and definitely does a better job if you're familiar with the technique (again, maybe if you're good at rolling on tremclad you can beat the f**k out a bad sprayer. Body shops are a revenge from hell. I'm paying off to do all the work myself (again, because I'm really obsessive about my car) and I know for sure that given the right conditions (I don't have the plce to do it) I'd done it myself, rolling, spraying or can spraying.

That said, I agree 100% with you about body prep being the most important thing to do. My car hasn't even been primered because I'm chasing every little detail and I dismantled all the car (that's a b ummer in time consumption) but I know that when the body is OK I might be able to spray it myself. At the very body shop! hehehehe of course they'll be getting nuttin from my drained wallet! I left some 2 comonent primer and laquer and they used it! :x

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.


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