Really? Your NAPA counterperson must be mistaken. Ask again.

-James

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According to what I see at http://www.napaonline.com the same pitman arm is used for both power steering and conventional steering. it is listed as "w/conventional steering w/power steering"

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Hi David,
Click "next" at the bottom of the page. Different part number with manual steering specified. Sucks it costs twice as much as the power pitman arms.

-James

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I went with the 68-72 ider arm. Bolt holding mine was inserted from the top. Had to raise the motor to get it out. Bolt went in from bottom this time.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

I see that now, but there are 2 part numbers and 2 different prices on the forst page for the same description. I'm thinking we're dealing with different brands / manufacturers but I'll bet Dan can tell us for sure.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

TRW 18759 - manual steering pitman arm for '73-'76 A body
Only the power steering box changed in '73, the '66-'76 A and '66-'72 B body manual box are the same
Any '66-'76 A body or '66-'72 B body manual steering box will bolt on the '73-'76 A body K member
So the 18759 arm will go on a '67 manual box which will bolt to a '74 K

The OEM pitman arm was splined to clock the arm in the correct direction, some aftermarket arms are splined so they can be clocked in any direction so note the postion of your OEM arm before changing

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Slant Cecil

Probably a better choice from a money standpoint. I have never heard of a performance advantage of one style linkage over another.
I screwed up once and installed that idler arm bolt from the top with the engine out. Guess what I had to do after the engine was in the frame?

-James

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Here's a link I swiped out of one of Cecil's threads elsewhere.

http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/steeringbox.shtml

Anyone wanna guess why the idler arm bolt is in from the top?

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

In case the nut comes off the bolt might stay in due to gravity? Maybe I'll put a cotter pin in it.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Makes me want to go out and check mine...which way did I put that bolt in 3 years ago?

Ya know, funny thing he mentions about the C-body pitman arm...
I bought a new, large spline fast ratio arm from Firm Feel about 10 or 12 years ago when they became available along with a power box firmfeel rebuild kit. I removed the nut and washer from the steering box in my '71 Chrysler 300 and slid the "new" pitman arm over the threaded part for comparison and the spline clocking and position of the balljoint were the same. Maybe my memory is clouded from all the beers I've had since then, but... I wish I still had that car! But I still have that arm attached to my '63 Dart so I've got that going for me.
FWIW I had a 20:1 C-body/van style box with a '73+up A-body P/S pitman/idler arms, centerlink, K-member and '74 C-body tierods in my '70 swinger but pulled it since the sector shaft cover plate interfered with the TTI headers on that car. I'm pretty confident the combo would have worked but never actually drove the car with that setup so I can't totally back it up. I may try it again in my new '70 project car since all those new parts are laying around doing nothing. Will post back if anyone is interested.
And yes, those idler bolts shouldn't come loose since they come new with a crimped nut but you never know!

-James

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