I just bought an 83 Ram which I assumed Stock. It has a non- FB Carter BBD carb and aluminum intake which I presume must be 2bbl. I need help to identify/date each. The BBD is cast on bowl area [G 2681]. The intake is 4273131 and appears to be of lesser quality. I intend to complete the ignition swap and replace any necessary gaskets, ect. so that I can begin tuning. Thanks.

The carb number will be on a thin stamped-aluminum tag secured to one of the screws that hold the carb together -- casting numbers can't ID the carb. But it is probable you are looking at all original equipment there. Does your BBD have a vacuum port for distributor vacuum advance?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Please tell me it's got the A833OD. Also, what color is the truck? Mine is white with red interior.

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The Old Goat '83 D150 225-2

AKA Ice Titan

Carter 2bbl is missing ID. The intake/head gasket looks incorrect to me and the carb was hardly snug. My take is cast numbers are ascending through years and cast # is application specific. 1 source led me to believe it's from approx (57-60) 230ci. ???It also has an entended provision that might be for A/t kick or cruise? minor alterations seem evident. Also air pump is gone and no heat stove. The ELB intake assembly looks akward too. Engine seems very solid and quiet! Will post a couple pics. Thanks for reading.

It does have the OD 4spd. with aluminum case and clutch housing. I'll be dropping it soon for a clutch kit and inspection. (bad bearing, pressure plate?) Still need to determine correct parts. It is factory brown with tan interior. It looks to be a Miser, what would determine that ? Straight, clean example. I just have my doubts about somethings being ''correct''. Can someone assist in decoding my VIN.? All I have gotten is year code D and engine And engine code M (318). It has 225 and matching oem label on inner fender!

Casting numbers are not application-specific, nor do they necessarily ascend through the years.
Very unlikely...The 230s didn't have 2bbls, they had 1bbls. And a carburetor from that age range would be rather difficult to adapt successfully to your '83 truck. Air cleaner, choke, throttle hookup would all present problems. Have you got a digital camera? Maybe you can show us some pictures of the carburetor from various angles.

H'mm. "ELB intake"...? The intake manifold is the same with or without ELB. Do you mean the air cleaner with ELB computer hanging off it?
Badging and equipment. 225 w/4-speed is a good start!
Sure, go ahead and post the whole VIN and I'll decode it for ya.
M = 225/2bbl. Here's some info on '83 truck VINs:

1st digit: Country of manufacture. 1 for US, 2 for Canada, 3 for Mexico. Yours is probably a "1".

2nd digit: make. B for Dodge, E for Fargo, P for Plymouth. Yours'll be a "B".

3rd digit: Vehicle type. 4 for passenger vehicle, 5 for bus, 6 for incomplete vehicle (chassis-cab), 7 for truck. Yours'll be a 7.

4th digit: Gross Vehicle Weight. D for 1-3000 lb, E for 3001-4000 lb, F for 4001-5000 lb, G for 5001-6000 lb, etc. Yours is probably an E or F.

5th digit: Vehicle line. B for Ram van, C for Ram Kary Van(?!), D for Ram Pickup 4x2, W for Power Ram Pickup 4x4. Yours'll be a "D".

6th digit: Model series. 1 for 100/150, 2 for 250, 3 for 350, etc. Yours'll be a 1.

7th digit: Body style. 1 for wagon, 2 for SUV, 3 for van, 4 for conventional cab, 5 for club cab, 6 for crew cab, etc. Yours'll be a 4.

8th digit: Engine. H for 225/1bbl, M for 225/2bbl, T for 318/2bbl, U for 318/4bbl, etc. Yours'll be an M if the 2bbl is factory equipment, an H if it was originally a 1bbl.

9th digit: Check digit to validate VIN.

10th digit: Model year. C for 1982, D for 1983, etc. Yours'll be a D.

11th digit: Assembly plant code.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I very much appreciate your time and effort. VIN correction cleared a few wonders. Haynes is known to be inaccurate from time to time, that was my only source for VIN. I also took the first info on the carb lightly. I accept your experience and resources as most credible. I'll link some images soon. I was refering to the air filter housing with a 10 and 12 pin (ecu). Air flter housing will be replaced or modifed....... 83miser.

Thanks Again

Haynes books will cost you money in repairs you have to do over again because the Haynes procedures are wrong. That's if you're lucky. If you're not so lucky, following the procedures in a Haynes book will get you and or somebody else injured or killed. See here for the only safe way to use a Haynes book, then go get the factory service manual.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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The "Silver Bullet"
87 Ram D150

Haynes books will cost you money in repairs you have to do over again because the Haynes procedures are wrong.

I Know Haynes is nothing more than some basic coverage, I do insist on more credible info. I usually prefer not less than Chiltons as a quick guide. I have some older Hardbacks that are generaly relative....
The Petersen Automotive (trouble and repair) Copyright 74,75. 1977ed.
Petersen (Big Book of repair) 1977 edition.
Chilton's Auto Repair Manual (Domestic Cars, 76-83) .....