Yeah but the vendor jerked me around by email for a week and then announced that the rods were no longer available and my order was canceled. After scratching my head for a while, I decided to contact the manufacturer directly. K1 Technologies seems pretty straight up so far. They answered an email inquiry on Saturday afternoon (yesterday) and we should be able to do business after New Year's day. They even pointed out that they are a tiny little division of Carillo and included Carillo's number if I want to go that route. K1 has the rods I want, but it's nice to have a fall back if needed. It looks like Slantmutant is going to be way overbuilt so durability should not be a problem. Nodular iron sleeves (top fuel), forged aluminum pistons, and billet H beam rods doesn't sound very weak to me. Here's hoping that the new year is much better than last year for everyone. Just remember to party responsibly and if you can remember your New Year's bash, you didn't do it right.
David

_________________
If a MedAlert bracelet is the only bling you wear......You might be getting old.

Well thats not good that they cant supply them but if K1 can then all is OK. One thing about this size rod is there is many other companies making this exact same thing so getting them will be no problem at all. It is simply a Big Block Chevy rod setup for the Big Block Mopar engine. Even 440Source has them and many others. If your welding up the crank then they are a very good choice and end the need for custom built rods which can cost way to much.




Happy New years to all.



Jess

Well, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. Just hope it isn't a train. All the needed parts are ordered and paid for, all we are waiting on is UPS, Australia Post, and new cast iron to cure enough for machining. In hindsight, I would have been better off to use 2.5 Turbo piston configuration since that would have allowed me to use 7.1" C to C rods which are more abundant and lots cheaper. Keep that in mind if you ever try to do this and you don't have a set of 198 rods. Ran this combo through the KB/Silvolite compression calculator and the static CR came out to 10.9 to 1. That was figuring a 50cc chamber, 20cc piston dish, .040" gasket thickness, and the piston .004" below the deck. The dynamic CR came out to 9.3 to 1 with the cam I am going to use (Comp 264S) so I guess I can live with premium pump swill. We'll see how she does in a couple months. Thanks for all the help and input.
David

_________________
If a MedAlert bracelet is the only bling you wear......You might be getting old.

Okay...

Can we get a condensed version here...

Cubic inches?

Rods used..Pistons used

Sleeves used...

Bore specifics

Grind on crank necessary to make it work

Additional work needed to block tou run after wet sleeving it...etc...

I see an excellent opportunity for an article here guys...

I do too (see an oportunity for an article)

also, I'm pix thirsty

and I love to get that condensed version with suppliers data (phone, mail, web site, etc)

_________________
Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

I know it's been a while, but parts are finally starting to roll in. The sleeves are here, rods are here, pistons are on the way and Ray is getting the shop cleaned out so he has the time to focus on Slantmutant. The pic of the crank is before any work except cleaning and magnaflux and the block has only been hot tanked and magnafluxed. It goes into the cleaning oven later on. Don't know what the final stroke will be, it all depends on how much deck there is to play with. If you are curious go to http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s262/slantedview/ That's all I got for now, more as we make progress.

_________________
If a MedAlert bracelet is the only bling you wear......You might be getting old.

Ain't gonna work---on the street. It seems that the water jackets are now full of cylinder wall. I have .030" between 1-2, 3-4, and 5-6 cylinders. Things are a little better at 2-3 and 4-5 with .050". There is only .030" at each end. The one side I can get to and measure is only averaging in the .125" range. Looks like I will be looking for another car for my son. The 63 Valiant post he was going to get is going racing. Either that, or I have some very expensive scrap.

_________________
If a MedAlert bracelet is the only bling you wear......You might be getting old.

This is still cooling with that thin area, yet the coolant will still channel heat with no problem. Should be OK.

So many engines has semiased cylinders like the mopar 2.2/2.5, 1-2-3-4 all have iron connecting all cylinders together and coolant only flows on both back and front and left and right is also free-flowing coolant.

Cheers, Wizard

If you were /really/ worried about it, you could drill and tap the water jackets for external coolant lines. I mean... if you've already gone this far, that doesn't seem like much more of a step.

_________________
Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

I'm really not worried about coolant flow between the cylinders; but I don't think there will be enough coolant flow around them to keep this thing from overheating without wasting too much HP to drive the water pump. Have another idea though, and I could use some input. How far outward can I move the water jacket walls on the passenger side before I run into the pushrods? Don't have an assembled engine right now to check for myself.

_________________
If a MedAlert bracelet is the only bling you wear......You might be getting old.

I'm going to try and move the waterjacket bulkheads outward by cutting them out, moving them the thickness of the material, and welding them back in. Fortunately, I have a nephew who has the tools and claims to have the knowhow (Toyota engineer, we have an engine plant here) and his curiosity is piqued. We'll see, but for now Ray is getting the '70 truck block to bore out to 88mm for 2.2 Turbo hypereutectics and stroke for zero deck. Gotta have something for Carlisle. In case you haven't figured it out by now I'm going for true quench in a slant. It'll work at 94mm, let's see if it will work at 88mm.

_________________
If a MedAlert bracelet is the only bling you wear......You might be getting old.

Time out for a brain f&#t. You have a lot of those when your dad dies. I've got 6, 3.95" holes in the deck and no cylinder walls. Why can't I get in there with a die grinder and remove about 1/8" of waterjacket wall? Sounds a lot easier than all that cutting and welding.

Thanks Juan.

_________________
If a MedAlert bracelet is the only bling you wear......You might be getting old.

OK! that's the spirit! you've gone so far and so well, I'd hate this to come to a dead end. Tapping out the water jackets also sounds like a good compromise if you still are worried about this. Keep it rolling baby! a 270 CI slant is on its way!

_________________
Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Sorry for all the fits and starts, but when I started this I didn't really have a plan. Just a rough outline. I'm going to build a test engine first. This engine came out of a '70 dump truck that hauled grain to cattle on a dairy farm in Ohio until the cab rusted off. Doubt if it's seen 2500rpm in it's life (60K). This one will be bored to 88mm, stroked to 4.25", with K1 7" C/C (actually 6.95") H-beam rods, and Badger .5mm O/S hypereutectic 2.2 Turbo pistons with a 20cc dish. The block will be milled to zero deck the pistons. This will put me about halfway (240CI) to the displacement I want (273 or more) and give me something to drive for a while and get an idea of what cooling issues I'll have to deal with. For now Slantmutant is on the shelf with the exception of the crank work for a 4.35" stroke. Comments and ideas appreciated. Thanks for your time.

_________________
If a MedAlert bracelet is the only bling you wear......You might be getting old.