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 Post subject: New to the Group.
PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 2:54 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 2:28 pm
Posts: 10
Car Model:
Hi, I'm new to the group and I just wanted to introduce my self my name is Hutch and I have a 69 dart with 225/6. I purchased the car a few month ago and I am happy with it, I just need some advice on how to turn it in to a reliable daily driver. I have replaced a long list of parts on the car already. I have replaced the radiator, spark plugs, wires, cap,rotor,air filter, ballist resistor, msd ignition, alternator, starter,ect. What would be some other good things to replace or repair and how would I go about getting a 2bble intake? thanks for the help, Hutch. :)

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1969 Dodge dart 225/6


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 3:53 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Aug 20, 2005 7:43 pm
Posts: 153
Location: Groton, CT
Car Model:
some people have found them in their local bone yards...otherwise they're on ebay from time to time, and ocassionally in the parts for sale section of this forum...
happy hunting!

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My Dart
GO VOLS!
It's not rocket science, we're just splitting atoms.


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 Post subject: 2bbl
PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 5:43 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Feb 26, 2003 6:14 pm
Posts: 281
Location: Houston ,Tx.
Car Model: '63 Dart GT Convertible
2bbl intake on e-bay right now. Sorry, don't have a link.

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ifyoubegintothinkyou'relosingcontrol...it'salreadygone


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 11:43 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 5:09 am
Posts: 1167
Location: Troy, Texas
Car Model:
Welcome aboard, Hutch.

Did you change the thermostat and hoses when you replaced the radiator?
How do the fan belts look - frayed, cracked, glazed?
What about the brake pads/shoes?
Might go ahead and change the fuel filter and check the rubber fuel lines for cracks - don't forget the one back there on the outlet from the sending unit.
Make sure battery terminals are clean and tight.
Does the heat riser "flapper" under the intake manifold work properly - opens and closes smoothly?
All bulbs burning brightly - inside and out?

Just a few things to consider,
Jerry

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There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 9:32 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 2:28 pm
Posts: 10
Car Model:
thanks for the ideas. I will check on those things. The fuel filter is good I changed that and the battery also. As for the heat riser what does it look like? :?:

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1969 Dodge dart 225/6


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:05 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
Car Model:
Quote:
...What would be some other good things to replace or repair ...
Or things to add to the car to make it fun and more safe to drive... front & rear anti-sway bars and good shocks are always high on my list.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 11:16 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Nov 01, 2006 12:01 pm
Posts: 67
Location: North Jersey
Car Model:
Quote:
As for the heat riser what does it look like?


Image

The rectangular hole at the bottom / center of the above picture (exhaust manifold) is the heat riser valve-
(of course mounted in your vehicle you won't see this view)
but the round disc, to the left of the opening should move freely back and forth a half turn or so-
which operates that 'flap' in the opening...
If you remove the air cleaner, the round disc is a couple of inches below the carburator towards the front of the car-

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BoatAnchor
'71 Swinger /6-225
SuperSix, EI, front discs, 2.25" exh.
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 12:00 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 5:09 am
Posts: 1167
Location: Troy, Texas
Car Model:
And that flat shiny thing between the manifold and the round "counterweight" is a spring which, when heated by the exhaust, expands and unwinds, causing the "flapper" to close and block the opening. That redirects heat away from the bottom of the intake and out the exhaust pipe.

The shaft that everything pivots on runs through the walls of the manifold. Over time, it can rust up and seize, rendering the flapper non-functional. MOPAR used to sell a high-temp lubricant to use there, I don't know if they still do. The pivot points also wallow out, causing exhaust leaks. I'm not sure, but I think I remember seeing a MOPAR repair kit to fix that problem, too.

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 8:41 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 2:28 pm
Posts: 10
Car Model:
Ok I found the heat riser "flapper". Now I need to know how it should operate and how it should be hooked up if done propperly. If anyone has a diagram that would be great or knows where I can find one. Right now it moves freely but I think it is not hooked up correctly. Thanks for the help Guys!! Hutch

_________________
1969 Dodge dart 225/6


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 11:37 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 5:09 am
Posts: 1167
Location: Troy, Texas
Car Model:
Not much else to be said about how it works. If it rotates freely and springs back to the rest position, you're good to go. There are small diameter pins protruding out of the manifold on each side of the heat riser. The one on the round counter-weight side is there as the anchor point for the coiled spring I mentioned. On the opposite side, away from the counter-weight, there should be a pin with a small spring stretching over to the end of the flapper's shaft. I believe (?) it's only there for anti-rattle - I can't see any other purpose for it.

Does your manifold have the round counter-weight like in the picture? If not, it will have one of some other configuration, but it will be there, nonetheless. Sometimes, the small pins may rust and break off, thereby disabling the coiled spring. :evil:

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 7:16 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 2:28 pm
Posts: 10
Car Model:
It's a different type of counter weight. The peoblem I c is that it looks like the spring should be hooked to something and it's not. It moves freely but I still wonder if it is functioning correctly? :?

_________________
1969 Dodge dart 225/6


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2007 2:15 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Nov 01, 2006 12:01 pm
Posts: 67
Location: North Jersey
Car Model:
read this:
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18485

posted today in 'Engine' section; it discusses checking
both types of heat riser valves...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 7:24 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 5:09 am
Posts: 1167
Location: Troy, Texas
Car Model:
If the spring is not hooked to a pin, it won't work. Work the counter-weight by hand and see if you get any resistance.

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.


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 Post subject: Wiring harness
PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2007 4:36 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 2:28 pm
Posts: 10
Car Model:
Anyone know where to get a wiring harness for the engine bay?

_________________
1969 Dodge dart 225/6


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