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I have come around to the "more on the intake" way of thinking for naturally asperated, non-NOS applications. I would "gamble" another $130.00 plus an engine build / install to try one of those.
After you "run the numbers, it still feels like "tossing the dice" every time I get one of these custom cams ground.
I've batted this subject around for a couple years now trying to get an idea of "where" to go on a cam for the hpak/efi/long rod motor...I got the feeling that my formula had to "fit" into the "longer intake" & "try to keep the overlap shorter to prevent reverb in the runners" & watch your lobe separation and duration to prevent too much "lump" for the computer to handle....
It really is like "throwing dice", I don't trust the computer simulation much considering it said rolling a 300 degree roller cam with the NA EFI slant would net me some "turbo" like power...I ended up having to "retune" the simulator with some head flow numbers off of here (I love how they think "oversize" = Cleveland valve sizes), using the "tuned port" for the Hpak intake, and calling the slant a stock chamber and not using "wedge" to get the numbers close to being real world (I double checked the results of these tweaks using the Beater Valiant and a G-tech, and now things are much closer to the real deal...).
What came up for a daily driver was something like a 268 intake with 258-260 exhaust, a 109 LSA and a moderate lift (under .50 not including lash).
Doc had a nice (low duration) dual pattern cam card he posted a copy of once with the caption "feels like 268 mopar cam", that looked like a good grind.
One thing that is known is the LSA and how you advance/retard the cam can affect your HP and torque peaks, as well as idle quality...
-D.Idiot
"It's a real hair tearing experience, I'll be bald before the engine ever gets built...but I'll be much more streamlined ,right?!??!"