Please god let this be a short thread. I know some hate Amsoil, some love it, and I sure some don't care a hoot. I am looking for a responce to well lets just paste in a quote of Bob's oil site.

quote
After the base oil has sheared or squeezed out, The last line of defense is an additive that puts down a barrier film. This additive usually has higher levels of strength against shearing so it helps keep the wear down. Alright, here's the catch. In 96, the lubrication industry changed from the SH to SJ API rated oil by reducing the barrier lubricant additives to help preserve cat converters on cars. Why?, It appears that the manufactures / lubrication experts are concerned with contaminating the cat converters with the standard antiwear additives in the motor oils so they have reduced the levels of antiwear additives to preserve the cats.
end quote

I have 2 cases of the Amsoil series 2000 0w-30. Could some one tell me how I would know or if you know, if the antishear additives are up to pre 96 levels?

Please don't let this turn in to a hated oil thread.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

i read somewhere that the oil for high milage cars has more of the additives, was it Pennzoil that makes it

I would think that Amsoil could give you the specs if you can find out who to ask.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Brennan, don't read this the wrong way, but... you're investing a huge chunk in a motor. Why the heck fo you care for saving 2 bottles of oil? get the right stuff for the break in and live easy of mind. You don't wanna sweep a lobe or cook the main or rod bearings or such.... leave those amsoil bottles alone and get a diesel stuff or anything with hughes engines aditive.

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

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He said he's got two >cases< of the stuff. Other than that, you're right. Brennan, either get some correct oil, at least for break in, or run the Amzoil and put the GM EOS addative in for the break-in.

Roger

I wasn't going to use the Amsoil for breakin. Just wondering if I'd like to use it later.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

well, 2 cases... still I think that the motor he's building deserves the best stuff he can get. He can sell those cases to the neighbor! brennan, after the break-in period, you may use it (I'd add some aditives... but, that's me)

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Here is three things I know about oil. Barry Harrison installed a new comp cam and broke it in and it wiped a lobe right off. I have a cam from this same build new in the box. Comp Cams asked if he broke the cam in with Rottel t which is a diesel oil. That is what Barry told me they recondmened. Might make a call to tech if that is a issue,
You do not need 75 lbs of oil presure on a race or street engine in a Slant.
I beleve in syntechic oil have used it in my race engine for 4 years and no oil issues. Thanks Ron Parker




Bagels On Juice Im On Boost

I have read articles by people much smarter than I who say that 10psi oil pressure per 1000 rpm is perfectly adequate, even for racing applications. To me, this means that 5 or 6 pounds at idle and anywhere around 30 psi at normal operating revs is fine, especially considering the way I drive my lightly stressed slant six. These articles helped me to get over my anal fixation with oil pressure...free at last! Davey

Davey you are right my race engines runs about 45 lbs at idle and about 50lb at 6200 rpm. But it idles at 1700 rpm and we race it out the back. But im not at 6200 rpm for about two seconds. So oil presure is not a issue. But I do no from a Dupont Lubercation engineer about oil and their benifets. Thanks Ron Parker








Bagels On Juice Im On Boost

Am I the only one hesitant to run 0-w30 in a daily driver? 10-30 is about the lowest I'd care to put in mine, but that has absolutely no engineering basis whatsoever, just word of mouth reasoning.

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

Eeeehh......0-w30? Man, that's awful thin. I think (SYN.) Rotella 5w40 would be O.K.....but that's just me. I'd probably use 10-w40, or similar. I guess it's something about the "0".....

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tso.aspx

What should I look for here to show it shear rating is as high or higher than pre 96 levels.

* API SL/CF, SJ, SH
* ILSAC GF-2, GF-3
* ACEA A1/B1, A2/B2, A3/B3
* Chrysler MS-6395M
* Ford WSS-M2C-913A/B
* GM 4718M, 6094M
* VW 502.00 (HTHS is 3.4)
* DaimlerChrysler 229.5, 229.3
* JASO VTW

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

My understanding of the reasoning behind the really lightweight new oils is that manufacturers have gone to them primarily to help with gas mileage. As corporate average fuel economy (CAFE) standards requirements have been raised by Uncle Sam, manufacturers have had to get innovative in ways to reduce engine friction and pumping and windage losses. I bought a new 2003 Silverado with the small V-8 in it, and I was concerned that the new engine would rumble a little bit (like it was making main and rod bearing noise) at startup. I had a machinist friend tell me that was exactly what it was...GM had decided that bearing clearances could be loosened considerably and still be safe...all to reduce friction losses and increase fuel mileage. I suppose the reasoning is that if they can save a mile per gallon with bearing clearances, a mile with light oils, a mile here and a mile there...it all adds up. I for one don't like it. I run Rotella 15W-40 in my 98 Cadillac, my wifes' 03 Trailblazer and I put 20W-50 in my slant six. I care more about engine prtection than I do about a mile or two per gallon gas mileage. Davey

If you care more for protection, then you should use 5-30 or 10-30 oil. It will flow better at start up and get to the bearings quicker. Start up is where most engine wear takes place.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225