Hey guys,
I had to go and do it. I just can't keep my hands off...
I removed the "Fuel/Air bar", and was looking around, when suddenly I broke one of the little "legs" off. !@#*&!!
After I sat down again, I started thinking about other ways to improve atomozation. The stock design is pretty stone age, so I made a one-off custom "mixer-bar" for my 1920. I hope it runs as good as it sounds.
Pictures at http://www.mopar225.blogspot.com
I'll let you know how it works.....

P.S. Has anyone looked into using an annular booster from a Dominator/Holley 4500? It looks shockingly similar, shape-wise.
How about a CNC'd, 12-hole, polished booster???

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

Argentina was doing some kind of carburetor VooDoo about a year ago. I don't know how that worked out. See http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... lrin#85031

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

my fabbing experiment went just fine. I'm using them in my carb and have sold many sets to racers down here and this has proven to work consistently good.

On the other hand, if you closed the ends of that T bar with epoxy, you might want to go back and at least use some aluminium, or brass plugs (tapered so they can be pressed) epoxy will eventually give up to the constant gas flow and will fall into your intake...

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Yow, that sounds bad.... I used JB-Weld, I figured it would hold......I did put little ridges inside the tube, where the grey stuff could grab. Do you think that would help enough? I drilled a few more little holes, it needed some more; to flow about the same as the original. If it looks like junk, you should see what I had to do it with. A $15.00 plastic electric dremel kit. I found it in the bottom of the tool-box. I want a mill bad.....
I'm still just playin' around with this, I'll be running economaster carb(s) on my driver.
Argentine-Slantsixer, those boosters look great! I wonder if you could do something similar to the economaster? Oh, I checked on the 4500 boosters. around $100 each. Still don't know if they'll fit. They install exactly the same though, the little brass plug even looks like the one in my Holley.(probably the same part!)
Thanks,
BBBanjo

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb

the 4500 boosters would not be a direct fit. That piece is about the same but the insides are larger. Why did you removed the side wings? the atomization would be kind of hurt without them. As a matter of fact they're still used in some racing classes down here that won't allow 2 barrels on /6 or other IL 6's. We go all over them but we ever remove the "flaps"... sometimes you can create a very interesting effect by grabbing them with soft jaws parallel action pliers and we twist them just a little to create more turbulence. Remember we don't really see BOOST action from this this piece at all, it just delivers fuel/air mixture to the venturi.

A dremel tool is more than enough for carb porting purposes. You don't really need a mill for this, in fact it makes things more complicated and risky. A good steady trained hand is always better and faster than any mill.

Other great source of improvement on 1920's is reaming the throttle bore near the blade @ 43 mm or so (1 11/16") and removing part of the venturi (blending the "step" inside the venturi with the big bore part, you need to remove the blade for this and go very precisely by hand if you're good at it or yes with a special tool on a mill, I do it by hand but I must have wrecked a couple of carbs -ok, more like 2 dozens- before achieveing pro results with just a cross pattern rotary file and WD40 to prevent the aluminium load up of the file)

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Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Thanks for the info!
Yeah, that twisting action....I guess I took it a little far. (That's really why they are gone! ) I tried, anyway. I thought....."oh well, maybe I can try this.." And that is where the idea came from. It's my first time with this, so I cut myself some slack. I'll twist a little less next time.

I'm not 100% sure I understand,... but I take it you mean making a completly smooth taper from the smallest part of the venturi to the larger bore? I noticed a sharp lip around the center of the venturi, like where the carb was cast "together". Keep modding!
Thanks,
BBBanjo

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225 Cubic Inches of Iron-Head American Muscle

225 bored .040 /.100 off block, Schneider Cam 224@.050~ .480 lift - Stock valves, blended bowls, Offenhauser intake with 500 Edelbrock carb