Hey Guys&Gals,
Just 2 days ago i finished getting a new 225 in my 73 duster. and now it has a bad vibration when i accelerate..any ideas? i hope i dont have to leave it in the shop for ANOTHER 2 weeks...when i let off the pedal no problem then when i give it gas it vibrates...is this a commen thing with new engines? or did sumthing mess up somewhere...any ideas would be great!
Thanks,
DB

Uh-oh...hope we haven't got yet another problem "remanufactured" engine on our hands...

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I am assuming the car didn't vibrate with the old engine? Is it a vibration or a rattle? With the car out of gear dose it vibrate when the throttle is snapped? Is this a new motor or yours that was rebuilt?

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

New engine from a company so could this be bad? And theres no rattle but a vibration...and it does it in and out of any gear... omg this car is such a money pit..hehe

How in the world do you get vibration from an inline 6..........

inline 6's are inherently balanced.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Loose torque converter bolts?

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Is it an actual vibration, or could it be a misfire? Either way, if the place that did the install supplied the engine, I would thake it back, and tell them you are not satisfied.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

did the shop you took it to break in the engine or did they just slap it in cuz when I put my engine in after I rebuilt it it ran like crap till it broke in (at idle or under acceleration)

He "one man shop" just slapped it in and gave it back so im hopeing its doing like you said and running like crap until its broke in

I would just drive it for about 600 miles and change the oil and see how it runs (and after your second oil change it would be an opportune time to switch to synthetic)

take it back.

sb

sounds like a good idea to me:)

yep

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Have the valves been adjusted? (valve lash settings)
DD

"Drive the snot out of it for 600 miles" is poor advice. If there's something seriously the matter, doing so will worsen the damage and give the shop grounds to state (correctly) that you are partly to blame because you kept driving it instead of bringing it back. You paid the guy good money; take it back right away and tell him you don't know or care what the problem is, but you want it fixed all the way right.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.