Hello. I'm thinking of buying a complete front end rebuild kit with rubber bushings for my -70 Duster. It has the -73 and up disc brake conversion made by the previous owner some +10 years ago.
Q #1: Should I order everything as a -73, or is there any -70 parts that differ and I should consider to order a special "mismatch"?
Q #2: Can I get everything as a kit from Summit Racing, or should I get in touch with either 'Performance Suspension Components', 'Performance Suspension Technology' or 'Just Suspension'? Or non of the above mentioned?
I'd rather take it from Summit so I can order my gas tank and other stuff at the same time and save money on the freight costs when ordering just from one place. Thanks for answers in advance.

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Mopar or no car.

Bye the way, who the F**K is Tu Ning?

Rubber bushings don't last very long. I am going to go urethane and drill them for grease fittings.

I have all the stuff for the disc converion like you do.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Hoogod, please let's not have another everlasting rubber vs. urethane debate. Rubber bushings work and last just fine; you'll get at least 15 years out of them if they're properly installed. Anyone who cares to debate the matter, please instead use the board's SEARCH function to go back and read the many previous threads on the matter, then quietly go and make up your own mind. The question has been debated to death and beyond.

I recommend buying from ESPO. Friendly, knowledgeable, and affordably priced.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

order for the 73, thatll have all the right things... its a fun job and pretty easy, good luck! dont forget to get the ball joint socket if youre changing them out, makes it alot easier

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"I don't like these seatbelts, they're too complicated." - my lovely girlfriend in reference to my 71 duster seatbelts

The Espo site states: 'All parts (are also sold individually and) are either Moog, TRW or McQuay-Norris parts where available.'
Are these the manufacturers that the other companys also use when selling their kits, or do they manufacture the components themselves?
In Summit's listing of companys I find only Moog, not TRW or McQuay.
And as I said before I wish to buy all my stuff only from one place because of the freight costs over the big pond. (The more the overall cost is the more I have to pay taxes.)

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Mopar or no car.

Bye the way, who the F**K is Tu Ning?

Most of the kits have lower priced components, who knows where they come from. As far as the bushings, they may or may not be the same regardless of brand. I would stick with Moog, and yes I have used all three brands you mentioned. I think they are still your best bet for quality. If you get steering gear verify that your idler is the same as the 73 (I don't think it is) or order the correct year for your car, same for the lower control arm bushings and maybe the strut rod bushings.

Yes.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My front rebuild kit from ESPO had all McQuay Norris parts. They seem to work fine.

just a quick question, how much is the kit youre getting? i did pretty well with alot of the front end stuff on my 71 duster with a 73 disc conversion through my local napa. its been awhile but i might be able to find the receipts and give you my grand total... better yet, you could try napa.com and see if your local place can get the stuff to save on shipping. good luck.

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"I don't like these seatbelts, they're too complicated." - my lovely girlfriend in reference to my 71 duster seatbelts

xwaynestaticx03, there ain't no local napas here. I live in Finland so that's on the other side of the globe on the same northern latitude (or is it longitude) than Canada.
My local place has to order the stuff from USA, pay the freight costs, taxes and then put their winning marginal on top of that. Would you like to pay $500 for a gas tank? That's what it would cost if I order via my local shop, that is specialised in american cars.

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Mopar or no car.

Bye the way, who the F**K is Tu Ning?

haha, sorry wasnt paying attention to where you were from. just not with it i guess...

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"I don't like these seatbelts, they're too complicated." - my lovely girlfriend in reference to my 71 duster seatbelts

unless your car is a trailer queen that sees <2k miles a year, avoid McQuay Norris like the plague, it is cheap crap, that is unless u like working on the front end of the same car THAT much, under daily driving conditions, the McQuay crap won't even last as long as OE! I know, I was an alignment and front end guy for 18 yrs. That and my Volare came with 4 brand new McQuay balljoints in the trunk, and with my dislike for their cheap product I sold them, and installed them in a friend's Volare wagon, and guess what... he's on the phone again wanting another set of b j's because the McQuays only lasted 2-1/2 yrs or so, the orig ones had lasted from 78 til 2-1/2 years ago. that's quality?? I DON'T THINK SO!!!!
They use a bunch of nylon for bushings as opposed to Moog's metal.

You need to pay special attention to the drag link / center link in the car - if it was converted to the newer style. The older style drag link had the pitman and idler arm go thru the drag link from the bottom up - just the opposite on the 73 and newer. That directly affects what year pitman and idler arm you order. If you are buying new tie rods and sleeves get them for a C-body - much thicker tubes and will stiffen up the steering response. The rest of the parts need to be for a 73 and up with discs - safest way to get the right upper and lower ball joints.