For all '60-'73 Slant-6 1bbl carbs (Holley 1920, Carter BBS, Stromberg W), plus '74-up Carter BBS carbs, use a kit № 1231.

All other 1974-up Slant-6 1bbl carbs (Holley 1945 and 6145) use a kit № 1234.

All Slant-6 2bbl carbs (Carter BBD, Holley 2280) take a № 1232.

These can be bought from CarbsOnly and Carburetor-Parts.com.

For my 2bbl setup, I ordered the № 1232 kit and here is what arrived:
The round black housing contains the thermostatic spring, and you can see it has two electrical terminals on it. The spring and housing are attached to the mounting bracket by a retainer ring and one or three screws. By loosening this screw, the housing can be rotated relative to the bracket through several whole revolutions, giving essentially infinite control over the initial spring/rod tension. The housing has a notch on it and the bracket has calibrated lines to help you keep track of your adjustment. As shipped, the unit was not preadjusted (no rod tension); I had to loosen the clampscrew and rotate the housing until tension developed in the pushrod.

You can see how the bracket attaches to the exhaust manifold in the same manner as the original choke. Other variants of the slant-6 choke kits have slightly different bracket fixing (2 holes instead of a bolt hole and a tab). This 2bbl kit has the pushrod with correct length and angles to connect to the factory type 2bbl installation—it looks wrong/weird, like it'll never fit or work, but everything fits and aligns correctly.

The black-and-copper device on the left side of the photos, in the middle of the bundle of wires, is the heat sensor. You mount this in a location where it's exposed to engine heat and gets a good ground via the copper mounting strap. This device senses engine heat and regulates power to the heating element inside the round black spring housing. The wires provided are nice and long, so you can experiment with different locations in the engine bay to find the one that gives you the right choke come-off rate. A good starting point is one of the threaded bolt holes in the top surface of the head, with the sensor box sticking up (not down) and hovering over the "ledge" of the head, above the manifold. If the choke comes off too quickly in that location, you can move it elsewhere (or just rotate it so less of it is directly above manifold heat).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Damn, that's cool!

I may give that BBS a stab again with a kit like that, once I get done jabbing myself in the eye with this red-hot poker!

D/W

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

Looks like a nice setup, but isn´t the link to the carb 90 degrees off?
Or is it just me???

The link to the carb is correct for the 2bbl, which has the choke and throttle shafts perpendicular to the axis of the engine—the 1bbl kits have a different rod, 'cause the 1bbl choke and throttle shafts run parallel to the axis of the engine.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

had to go outside and look
Never mind...

Hey wait! I still don´t get it

Dan are you still using that electric choke? How's it workin out for you? I'm putting together a "wish list" of what I want to do so I can prioritize what to do on this Duster I'm trying to get my hands on, and this sounds like a very good idea once I eventually (and I will if I get the car) put on a Super Six setup.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Yep, I really like these electric chokes. The very wide adjustability range means you can get them to work the way you want...and so far, they seem to keep working that way over the long haul.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Awesome. What mounting location did you settle on for the controller? I take it you have it powered off the ignition circuit?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Heat sensor works well for me when bolted to the rearmost of the two threaded bosses atop the cylinder head...right where the factory choke modulator used to be. Power comes from ignition-on +12v (make sure to take it from the upstream side of the ballast resistor, not the downstream side).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I think the benefit of an electric assist choke is that the choke comes off quicker. I believe this was mainly done for emissions. How does the elec choke benifit a car where emissions are not an issue?

I ask because I was contemplating replacing an oem elec choke with a non-elec choke (because they are less expensive)

An electric-assist choke is not the same as an electric choke. Please read all the posts in this thread to understand why these electric choke kits are better than the factory chokes (with or without electric assist).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan, I ordered the #1232 kit and it looks exactly like the one pictured. Are you sure its for a 2bbl setup? It looks like it goes for a 1bbl setup to me. At least it would work with the Holley 1920 I had on my 71 Duster. The arm goes towards the back of the carb where on the new Carter BBD, the arm should go towards the passenger side of the carb, correct? Even the picture in the instructions is showing a 1bbl.

Yep, it's for a 2bbl setup. The 1bbl units have a longer pushrod and the hook at the top of the pushrod is rotated 90° relative to the hook on the 1232.
Nope, for that you'd need a 1231 or a 1234.
It's easy to think it looks like it does, but take note of the orientation of the hook at the top of the pushrod, relative to the bolt pattern of the choke unit's base.
The instruction sheet is generic.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I purchased kit 1231 for my low mileage 65 dart 225 with holley 1920. The 1231 kit came with a choke housing that had mounting holes 2 3/4 on center. My 65 dart & parts dart both have mounting holes 2 5/8 on center. Additionally the linkage seems too short to reach. Dan indicated holes on manifolds 65 & earlier are 1/8 closer & the choke needs to be elongated. Also the link, although shorter than stock, will fit.

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

i just ordered a 1232 for my carter BBD - super six.
we will see how it works.

update:
i ordered this choke over a week ago and when i have e-mailed carbsonly asking about it, i recived a reply that it was shipped. i e-mailed them back and asked for a tracking number ... that was 4 days ago and i have not recived a reply. i called carbsonly today and the person that i talked to couldn't speak english that well and when i asked for a tracking number they could not provide one.

update 2:
after almost 3 weeks, today i found out that the part still has not shipped.
i canseled the order. now i am totally screwed. i need a 2bbl choke by friday morning. i will never order from this company again. i hopefully expect a speedy refund but i serrously doubt that.

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"Marilyn" 64 Dart GT & "Stella" 64 Valiant V100 Sedan - 63 Norton Project