When i push in the clutch pedal should the end of the shift fork move toward the front of the car or the rear of the car?

Second question if the first does not answer my problem..

Any idea what the part numbers for the clutch alignment tools are? I know there are a couple of spline number options but of course i don't know that until i pull it out.

Basically When i push in the clutch petal the end of the fork where the linkage from the z bar attaches moves toward the rear of the car.. But it looks like it hits the hole it goes into the transmission through.. There is a lot more room toward the front.. Plus the way the fork looks renforced it looks like it should be going forward????


So i suspect either it is going the wrong way or was put in backward....

Thanks for any help...

-Scott

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1970 Sweptline Slant 6 3 Speed

The clutch fork should indeed be going forward. It should be hooked into a pivot inside the bellhousing, besure the pivot is there and that the fork is egaged with it.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

We are talking about the non-forked end of the fork correct the part not inside the bellhouseing.. It should go forward toward the engine.. Which would make the part inside the Bellhouseing go backward..

If this is all correct i wonder what the fix is maybe PO put Zbar in upside down???


-Scott

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1970 Sweptline Slant 6 3 Speed

Look at the pics Doc posted. The Z-Bar pushes the the outboard end of the clutch fork rearward. The pivot causes the inboard end to move forward, pushing the release (throwout) bearing into the levers of the clutch cover which then retract the pressure plate releasing the pressure holding the clutch disk to the flywheel. The motion of a lever with a center fulcrum (pivot) is reversed at the fulcrum - otherwise it wouldn't be a lever.

*edit* I suppose it's possible to out the Z-bar in upside down but I don't see how it would ever hook up properly and even if it did that would'nt change the physics of transferring force and motion through it.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Since your title is 'swept and slanted' do you have a 60's truck with the 11" clutch and hydaulic slave cylinder? (before asking about the 'z-bar')

-D.Idiot

Yeah its a sweptline truck..

The fork is indeed moveing the correct direction then...

I have moved the Clutchfork as far back on the truck as it will go so something is wrong.. You may be right.. Maybe its not sitting on the pivot..

Yeah i know how levers work.. I have just never been in the Bellhouseing of a manual before and was not sure if i was moving the clutchplate away from the Engine or the transmission.. Assumed away from the engine which to me would mean the outside end of the for should pull forward making the inside piece move backward thereby moving the clutch plate away from the flywheel..

The truck is a 1970 and it is not hydraulic

I have added a picture showing the current motion.


Pic does not appear to work so here is URL

www.heyse.freeservers.com/cgi-bin/i/images/clutch1.jpg

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1970 Sweptline Slant 6 3 Speed

One of several things could be at play here. A problem I used to have with some frequency is a broken arm on the Z-bar. The metal would break at the weld on the bellhousing side then begin to tear away. The clutch would get progressively worse until it would not disengage at all. You could have a broken, missing, or detached clutch fork pivot, or you could possibly have a bad clutch pressure plate or combinations of any of the above. Good luck!

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Hmmm,

I am away from the truck right now... But would have to guess something with the pivot maybe.. When the pedal is pushed all the way down the Fork is touching the back of the hole

Will take another look int he morning.

Thanks,

-Scott

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1970 Sweptline Slant 6 3 Speed

Scott,

Certainly the guys already replying to you are right on in there comments, from my experience. However, here is another notion for you. I have a 64 utiline that I removed the 3 speed tranny and big beel with passenger side slave and fork and put in a wilwood pull cylinder on driver side and used the old hydro master to feed the pull cylinder and operate a transplanted 833 4 speed. I think the Z bar linkage is prone to tear as suggested to you and if you are going into the bell anyway, you might want to consider getting a pull slave. But you should be able to easily tell if the pivot is the problem, I think. If you disconnect whatever is attaching your linkage to your fork, I think you should easily tell if a pivot is working merely by moving your fork around by hand. It will either stay in place and lever back and forth, or move back and forth and up wallow around with no pivot feel. By this I mean imagine a stick you nail loosely onto a fencepole. You can move the stick all around and back and forth, but you can "feel" the fixed pivot at the nail.

rock
'64d100

Rock

Yeah was thinking the same thing myself.

It will be Tues afternoon before i can do anything but was planning pretty much what you are saying.. The Dust cover and fork boot are missing so will be able to see what is going on in there anyway.. Will also get a getter idea of how it all moves..

Can't wait to be under there again and resolve this.. But have a CCNA exam on Tue and will have to some final brush up for that all day tomorrow.. un-Fortunately would rather work on the truck and it is distracting me

Those of you who may have worked on a Cisco certification will know its like getting another bachelors degree..

Thanks for the help

-Scott

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1970 Sweptline Slant 6 3 Speed

Ok was finally able to get under the car this week..

The Z-bar attaches to a bracket on the frame and a pivot mounted to the side of the engine..

The engine side seems very sloppy.. Is there a bushing or something that is supposed to be in the engine side of the Z-bar... I can reach up an move the engine side 1/4 in toward the front or the back..

May not be the problem but you know would give me a wee bit more travel back on the clutch if it was not sloppy like that..

Additionally the link from the Z-bar to the Clutch fork is worn maybe 3/16 if an inch inside the loop that attaches to the zbar is there a bushing that goes inside the loop end the link i am talking about looks like this:

-------D

Total gain could be a much as 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch if these problems are correctable..

IF they are normal then i guess there is a throw out bearing or some other issue..

Almost ready to give up there is a Slant 6 Auto trans sitting in my parts recovery vehicle (Trooper) waiting for transplant..

Any ideas suggestions?

-Scott

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1970 Sweptline Slant 6 3 Speed

Did verify by feel that the shift fork is on the pivot point..

Thanks again

-Scott

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1970 Sweptline Slant 6 3 Speed

I don't know about a truck, but in an A-body car there is a split nylon bushing in each end ot the Z-bar main tube; one on the chassis pivot and another on the bell housing pivot. The linkage from the pedal through the Z-bar and down to the clutch fork should all be tight but not binding. There should be a small amount of play in the fork before the throwout bearing contacts the pressure plate release fingers.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Are these bushings commonly available new?

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1970 Sweptline Slant 6 3 Speed