I'm in Tacoma, so Redding is a bit far for me to go.
If you can find one, go ahead and pull it and I'll pay you for it + how much more would you want for your trouble and shipping it?
I live near Tacoma. No MoPar specialty yards around here. Laysons
snapped up all the MoPar parts cars years ago.
Got the oil pressure sending unit in tonight.
the 45 degree 1/4" NPT fitting angled it fine and I got the sending unit mostly pointing up. Straight up and it hits the oil filter (on a 225" six)

just for my own curiosity only ( I have no need to start a bidding war here), I'd like a price comparison on my stuff vs. everyone elses to see exactly what is going on price wise. you don't have to answer on the board, just PM me if you like.

redline cost $602 and that includes the gauges but the estimate was $677, I realize this is going to change depending on which ones you want.

my plate cost around $50 and I don't sell the gauges.

RDJ, can you tell me what you paid for all your gauges? I did mine a few years back and the prices have changed considerably. you can PM it to me if you don't feel like posting it, I would appreciate it just so I have an idea if what I am doing is fair.

Assuming you are using your stock wiper and lights switch. If I would have gone with autometer gauges from Summit or Jegs, the gauges would have been about $330 or so for their less expensive type(traditional chrome) using a 3 3/8" tach and mech speedo; 2" volt/ammet, oil, water, fuel. I was considering this, but I have a lot of other things I am doing on the car right now, and didn't have the $$ for these.

I found all the guages I needed on ebay for about $70 except the tach (that includes shipping). They are Equus. I am getting a $35 Summit tach. All electric except the speedo.

The warning lights are $6 each from Summit or Jegs. I am using 5 (2 green blinkers, 1 red oil, 1 yellow brake, 1 blue brights).

That would put the total, including your panel at almost $200, not including wiring. I bought 25 packs of primary auto wire on ebay a while back (various gauges and colors) for $30, and have used that for other things also.

Lots of options out there. I guess it depends on how much work you want to do and your financial priorities.

Some day in the future, I may upgrade the gauges, and maybe not. We'll see.

okay, that makes me good about the pricing from me then.



Thanks!

Summit had the 4 gauges (temp, gas, volts and OP) and a 3 3/8 speedo with trip meter for $229. RedLine charged $260 for the above .Local speed shop was even more than that for the same.
On the 225 6, I had to buy a 45 degree fitting to direct the OP sender away from the block and point it upward.
I preferred to go with the quality gauges despite the extra cost.
Hookup on all this is involved. I am hooking up fuzes as per A/M's recommendation for the gauges.
I will upload a picture of it if I can figure out how to compress the picture and send it to the site. I think it looks like a million bucks compared to the stock cluster.

Somebody asked about hookup.
To plug into the original female plug for the printed circuit I bought
"Conduct-Tite" brand, part # 85303 GM weather pak terminals.
They are the MotoMite division of R&B Inc.
These are male plugs and a perfect fit to plug into the big female plug. They have their opposite end set up for crimping wire. I got them at PepBoys after a lot of checking thru electrical stuff looking for something that would work. $4 for 5 of them.
The female plug terminals are A thru K. The factory wiring diagram does not show A thru K. So, I'm tracking the printed circuit connections and trying to correlate them to the wire colors in the factory diagram.
It shouldn't be this hard.
Anybody know a simpler way?

Got a question: I can't find this in the wiring diagram nor in pictures of the engine bay.
On a '74 Duster 225 6, what is the plastic piece that attaches to the passenger side inner fender panel? It's plastic, about 2" high x 1 3/4" wide
with a hole for a thru-bolt. It has 4 wires coming off it ending with a female plug that attaches near the blower motor.
It has part # 38713 on it and the MoPar Pentagram. What's its function?
Thanks you guys for your help.

MORE ON DUSTER DASH PANEL. . .
Update: Disregard what I said on March 18th.
Those connectors don't work. They're hell to hook up, they slide out while you're trying to plug each one in. a 100% pain. Very frustrating and a big waste of time.
I used white adhesive tape to label each wire. I used a different-colored wire for each gauge. I used male/female spade connectors for each wire except those that go into the female plug that originally plugged into the printed circuit panel. I figure the spade connex won't corrode internally like the butt connex do. Once I'm done, I don't ever want to go back in there again.
The wires coming from the AutoMeter gauges were too short to gang them all up, so I had to have 3 grounds from the gauges to the dash bulkhead for ground. I made everything so it can be disconnected.
As expensive as the gauges were, you'd think they'd give you a couple more inches of wire per gauge.
RE price: Summit wanted $230 for all 4 2 1/16" gauges and a 3 3/8" mechanical speedo with trip meter.
So, I get it all hooked up finally and 3 of the 4 gauges don't work!!!!
Only the voltmeter worked but that's wired separately to a switched 12V source.
Went and filled up the gas tank and that still doesn't register.
The turn signals, high beams and dash lites work, so I know I did something right.
SO, my question is--have any of you guys wired this panel up with new gauges and how did you go about it??????????
Also, the RedLine guy did not predrill the holes for either the wiper or lite switch and the dash connector trim screws. I epoxied thin washers behind every hole iot prevent cracking the new panel.
Since the connex to the female plug don't work too good and keep popping out, I was thinking of just cutting off the female plug--wire by wire--and labeling each one and then using M/F spade connectors to the wires coming from the new dash gauges. That would be a positive, secure connection, but also make it easy to pull the panel if I ever have to again.
Can anyone tell me if I have the female plug circuitry figured right???
My diagram is on page 8-194 of the electrical connector Chart under Instrument Panel Compartment. It's diagram "Cl 10 Printed Circuit Board"
I have:
A or B--gas gauge C--Temp gauge D--Panel lite
E--High Beam F--Left turn G--R turn
H @ I--blank K--Ign. switch L--oil pressure

Can anyone tell me if I'm right on--or off here? D, E, F, @ G work OK.
K must be OK or D-G wouldn't work, right?
What do you all think? I've spent a lot of hours on this with little to show for it and my wife is pissed because her car is tied up.
Thanks so much for your help.

Ooooo..........wiring is not my forte, because I gutted the entire system.

I would ask (PM) slant six dan, he appears to be the electrical guy around here.

I finally found the web site I was looking for

www.whitegauges.net

I have seen those before on ebay- not a bad price if you have working original gauges and are happy with just the stock configuration.

I just needed more information from my set up, and wanted a tach, oil pressure, etc. and stock just wasn't going to cut it.