Anybody ever welded a swaybar before?

I'm trying to finish another step in the late k-frame -> '63 Valiant swap. I narrowed the k-frame 1 1/2", so I figured I would do the same to a 1 1/8" swaybar.

Now I'm wondering if welding on a swaybar ruins it. Per Dan at Addco, the bars are not heat treated, but he was concerned about making the bar brittle where it is welded. Anybody have any pointers?

The other option was a custom bar. He (Dan@Addco) quoted me $600, but I think that had more to due with not wanting to do a one off bar than the actual cost to make the bar.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

I wouldnt weld on something like that. It may not be heat treated, but if it is an alloy like 4140 or something similar, then you would get a hard spot. From what I have read, just nicking the sway bar will produce a weak spot. If you do weld on an alloy, you need to aneal it to normalize it.

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Excuse me, does this smell like chloroform to you?

I've heard that about torsion bars, but not swaybars.

Hmmm......

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

seems like I maybe have the two confused.

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Excuse me, does this smell like chloroform to you?

Most anti-sway bars are made from simple cold roll steel. (1010-1020)
I have heated and rebent anti-sway bars with-out any failures later-on.

As far as cutting a sway-bar in half and rewelding, I have never done that.
I think it would work if the weld joint was properly done in a long, straight section. Adding an outer sleeve over the welded area would be a "safety net" measure if you are worried about the joint failing.
DD

A swaybar is basically a transverse torsion bar............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Here's what I am working with.



Thought about "tweaking" the bends in the center to see if I can make up the difference, but I suspect that would put the "peak" in the middle too far forward.

I figured on the sleeve, glad to hear someone suggest it.

If I cut it, I think it would be on either side of the "peak".

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

Why not use an early A sway bar?

I would think bending the bar is far better than cutting and welding.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

You'd be much better off trying to bend the outer sections inward a bit. A cut and welded section is going to be much weaker than the surrounding metal. While it's not loaded up like a torsion bar, it still sounds like a crack waiting to happen.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

I have not verified this, but I assummed that because the bar is mounted in front of the k-frame, the arms would be too long.

On the other hand, if the bends for the arms were in the right spot, shortening the arms wouldn't be that hard. Cut them down and drill and tap the ends for heim joints.

Hey Sandy, care to measure yours from outer bend to outer bend?

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

Kind of figured the strut rods would crash with the swaybar if I left the bar alone. Something else to look at, though.

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

A quick measure in the pouring rain .....27.5"

PST early A bar

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

PST lists the bars as 62-72....and then 73 up. Im thinking you can just use the bar as is....

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Your getting rain too, huh.

That's about the same number I got for a stock late bar.

I will have to see, maybe I can use it without cutting. I do know the ends will have to come in first, though. Have to try it.

Thanks!

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'15 Chrysler 200S V6
'74 Duster 360, factory 4 speed car

Dion,

I saw your post about the custom A swaybar. In short, I think that you would be *way* better off having a custom bar made vs hacking apart another bar. The guy I had do ours did say that if you were to weld it, you should have it re-hardened, but we didn't have to go that route. As for price, $600 seems high to me. I just had 6 made (hollow, so the end does not have an eye, but you can make endlinks), it cost $300 (including shipping) for the steel, and $250 for the labor to bend them. Figure in about $60 for endlinks, and $20 for bushings, and you can do it anyway you like.

As for shape, I used an early A bar, and then bent the ends inward to make extra clearance for disc brakes. I have access to several different bars you might be interested in:

1) early A, stock
2) early A, 1.25", looks like it would attach to the strut rods (its too narrow to meet up with the stock swaybar tabs)
3) 73-76 bar (I sold it, but it may not be on the car)

You could try using some pvc pipe, heat it a bit to bend it, and mock something up.

Here are some pics that might help: http://tinyurl.com/2e9x47

It has pics of the early A bars #1 & #2 up there, as well as mock up of a 73-76 bar mounted out in front of the K.

Hopefully something there is of use to you!

MJ