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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 3:36 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2003 9:45 pm
Posts: 446
Car Model:
Can the tailshaft housing / extension housing be removed from a A904 while it is in the car?
There is a speedometer pinion fragment in the parking pawl area. :oops:

I am hoping if I remove the radiator and driveshaft, unhook the headers and loosen the motor mounts, etc, I can tip the transmission so the housing can clear the body.
Has anyone done this? Is it possible?

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21802

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63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 3:13 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2003 9:45 pm
Posts: 446
Car Model:
Does anyone know the number for the output shaft seal on a 63 A904?
Is that the correct name for the seal at the end of the extension housing?
The parts counterperson came out with this, which has a large curved red metal lip:
napa NOS15535, SKF 15535 (napaonline has a picture)

BUT that's not my seal.
Mine looks more like the one napa shows for a 727
(NOS16725)

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63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 6:00 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 2869
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
Yup it can be done but w/o going thru all you suggest. Get up on stands, put a jack under the pan (with a board between jack and pan) take 1/2" bolt out that holds mount to crossmember (other part of mount bolts to crossmember) and remove cross member, then remove about 6, 3/8 bolts (9/16 wrench), that hold the tail to main housing. There are 2 phillips head screws holding a small plate to the bottom of the tail about even with the speedo pinion hole. Take em out (may need a impact driver to get them out), and get in there with a pr of snap ring pliers, hold snap ring open while prying (gently) on front of tail housing and it oughtta come right off.
NOTE: this would be for a 67 (or so) or newer trans, as the older ones I believe had a 2nd oil pump mounted back there. (thats why, believe it or not, the older ones could even be PUSH started like a stick) Ive worked on many of the newer style ones but never the older cable shifted one.
In 40+ yrs since that car was made I don't know whether someone's swapped it out before.
As far as a pinion gear fragment, the newer ones are plastic (again unsure if they also were in the older versions) but I honestly can't see it causing a problem in there, worst case it would get busted up to smithereens and wind up laying in the pan, where your filter would stop it from causing a problem.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 25, 2007 9:55 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2003 9:45 pm
Posts: 446
Car Model:
Quote:
As far as a pinion gear fragment, the newer ones are plastic (again unsure if they also were in the older versions) but I honestly can't see it causing a problem in there, worst case it would get busted up to smithereens and wind up laying in the pan, where your filter would stop it from causing a problem.
Thanks. The 63-style pinion is also plastic.
The fragment was limiting the apply lever's range so that the pawl was always engaged or touching the sprag.
The Park lever (on the dash) wouldn't go all the way up and didn't "pop" into the up position.
I removed the cable end and the park assy cover and there was a bunch of small yellow pieces of gear - I took that as a sign that the plastic was brittle and likely to break up if encouraged.
I probed with a wire as I manipulated the apply and pawl levers and got them to go in the Un-Park position.
I put the cover back on and connected the cable.
I tried to put the Park lever in the Up position and it worked normally.
I bound the Park lever mechanism with wire so it would always be in the up position and removed the arm/lever.

I figured I'd just drive it like that and remove the park cover and pan again in a few months to see if they collected more mini fragments.
I would remove the wire and reattach the arm on the Park lever if I found enough small pieces.

Then I ran the car in forward and reverse gears while on stands.
Bad shuddering noise - I thought that was the fragment against the sprag.
I expected to maybe hear a crunch or two, but not a constant noise.
This is the point at which I decided to remove the extension housing.

I took the driveshaft off yesterday, measured the flange nut and was planning to buy a 1 1/8" socket for it today.
I noticed a fresh Parking Brake Cable rubbing mark on the driveshaft.
I thought about it last night after reading your post and this morning I ran it in Drive and Reverse w/o a driveshaft.
No shuddering vibration and noise so far...
OK. I think that's what it was.

The Stanza Ball & Trunnion boot still looks new after 8 months and a few thousand miles.
Image

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