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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2007 9:33 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2004 7:18 pm
Posts: 330
Location: Falls Church, VA
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I have a Holley 1920 for a '72 Dart on a shelf that I wanted to put on a '75. Will there be any drivability problems with this? Can I then just plug the vacuum connector in the intake manifold, and the one coming out of the exhaust manifold? Will the current kickdown linkage match up OK? What is the best 1 bbl carburetor to put on this 225 Auto '75 Dart Custom?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2007 11:59 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
Posts: 2445
Location: Lubbock, TX
Car Model:
Your kickdown linkage should hook up fine (I've used Holley 1945's with my '73 engine) You should be able to still use your EGR valve...though I have no experience with them, so maybe somebody else will help you with that. The one concern I have is the choke linkage. The rod from the choke element is made for a 1945 carb...you'll need one for a 1920. Since you have electric assist already, you'll need to get a heated choke for a '73 engine. Got mine, from all places, JC Whitney. Even says Holley on it.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 7:37 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24447
Location: North America
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A 1920'll work fine on your '75, if it is a good 1920 in good shape (old/high-miles units often don't work well and can't be fixed). You will not be able to use your EGR valve, for only the '73 1920 has a venturi vacuum fitting to operate the EGR system. So, you can remove the "hockey puck" looking thing from atop the engine, together with all its wires and vacuum hoses. The EGR valve itself (mounted to the outboard driver's side of the intake manifold) won't do any harm just sitting there disconnected, unless the valve itself is leaky. You will want to do the fuel line mod since the 1920's fuel inlet is differently located than that of the original 1945. The existing choke pushrod may or may not hook up OK to the 1920; if it does not or there are faults with the choke system (which there usually are), install a #1234 adjustable Electric choke kit instead of messing with the temperamental and poorly-designed original components (new or used). All other vacuum hoses, kickdown linkage, throttle cable, air cleaner, etc. will all hook up fine. Be sure to use the correct 3/8" thick carb mounting gasket.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 8:44 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2004 7:18 pm
Posts: 330
Location: Falls Church, VA
Car Model:
Thanks Eric W, I'll get a thermal choke from a '73.

Super thanks to Dan, I'll get a new gasket, and order up those carb fittings/hose.

The 1945 that was on the car needed a rebuild, but the 1920 is a "never re-installed older rebuild" so i'm not sure of its condition. I'll find out soon if it needs work.

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 Post subject: Carb switch
PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 10:13 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
I did the carb switch from a 1945 to a 1920 and the only challenge was the choke rod was too long. So I put a S bend into it and it works great. I really like getting to the jets, 4 bolts and your there. The carb is a vast improvement over the 1945, no vacuum leaks! I don't use the EGR and threw all the extra stuff away. It is just a nice simple setup. I added a little earlier accelerator pump shot and punched a bigger hole in the gasket so the whole let more fuel through. On the power valve, I shimmed it with a ultra thin shim to get it to kick in right away. The changes make it respond very aggressively for a one barrel. Excellent driveability over the 1945. Doctor Dodge had suggested the change over to the 1920 and I couldn't be more surprised.

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74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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